ElCap Report 10/23/08

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elcap-pics

climber

Crestline CA

Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 23, 2008 - 11:55pm PT

ElCap Report 10/23/08
By Tom Evans

Yo... Geeze, what can I say that I haven't said in the past several reports? Totally beautiful here and the weather is cooperating to the max. Still lots of climbs to be done before the first winter storm sends the Wall Rats scurrying for warmer environs. Today's report is brought to you by the Bridge Rats with whom I am going to climb the Royal Arches tomorrow. Thus I will be gone most of the day. Thus there will be no photos and no ECR tomorrow... I know, I know.... Take the pain pukes!!!
I need to have some fun you know!!
Aspins at the lodge.
River view with Higher Cathedral Rock and Spire skylined in the background.
North Side Drive near Devil's Elbow
Nose in profile, notice the painter at the rivers edge.
Today's Report is right now....

Zodiac: Well the three teams have all moved up a few pitches. Kevin and Sarah jumped past Althea and are at the top of the White Circle as I write these lines.
Kevin and Sarah in the White Circle, very organized too.
Next in line is Althea, who climbed two pitches today. She was finished with the BT when I arrived and cleaned it by early afternoon. Then she climbed into the Circle, which is the start of the real stuff. Her wardrobe could not be worse as far as photos are concerned, as a look at the pic below shows. Too bad for her... dull clothing means dull pics... I can only do so much you know!! She is learning on the fly and seems to be climbing with confidence.
Althea entering the business on Zodiac, the White Circle
Lowest down and most likely the fastest team is another Kevin with partner Renee. She lead the bolt ladder and he polished off the BT with little trouble and quite rapidly. They should pass Althea soon or they will starve to death!!
Renee leading the 5th on zodiac

Trip: Andy and Jacob climbed off this afternoon and are probably down swilling by now. Easy and fun for these big wallers.
topping out on the Trip

Nose: The woman who did the King Swing yesterday lead the Great Roof today and when I last saw her team, she was hauling the bags above Camp 5 in the afternoon. Who are these people?
Hauling loads and cleaning above Camp 5

Right behind them were Trout and Luke who, yesterday, climbed to the Gray Bands via the Jardine, sporting a huge pack. It looked like they were a NIAD team but day two has passed and they have another one to go... not quite a NIAD lads!!
The former NIAD team on the Pancake Flake
Below them was a team of three who did the KS and were last seen heading to camp 4.
King Swing
Lower down there were a couple of teams in the Stove Legs, one of which went to ECT late in the day.

Muir: Josh and Kevin (?) finished the Muir today in the late afternoon. They climbed like a well oiled machine and did the upper part in just two days. Nice stuff guys!!
Heading to the top of the Muir. Best dressed team on the rock!!

Salathe/Free Rider: I did see a team of three climb to the Roof and around the corner early this afternoon. I thought I saw a couple of climbers on the Block too. The part of the route above the ElCap Spire is difficult to see from the bridge and it is easy for a team to "get lost" in the deep corners up there.

Octopussy: This two person team was seen climbing a few pitches above yesterdays high point. They seem to be doing just fine.

In other news: The usual Bridge Rodents laid up by the railing today, watching and slandering anyone they could spot on the routes... typical fare for them. Tourons came in waves but the recent heroes of ElCap were glad to step up and handle all their questions with answers that, of course, made them look even more heroic than I have portrayed them on the Report. Thus I had a day of mostly shooting and little explaining to do. Thanks fellow rats!! I hear that several teams and a solo are planning on pushes very soon on some of the more unusual routes. I will keep you posted. Lambone went home today and his crew on the Zodiac push headed, much to my relief, to the showers and laundry... thank God!!
Like I said earlier, no report tomorrow, but you can still send positive vibes to all the teams slugging it out on the Great Stone. Oh yes...Several celebrities of the climbing world are working on routes at the upper end of the Valley and I am sure they will exert maximum spray to the mags and manufacturers, as they are all media and equipment lackeys. I needn't name them as I am sure you will hear enough about them to make you sick!! Onward lackeys!!
So that's the way it is for this the 23rd day of October 2008.
Adios ECP's

Fluoride

Trad climber

Hollywood, CA

Oct 24, 2008 - 12:01am PT

Those fall colors are spectacular. Autumn is one of the only times I miss living somewhere that has seasons.

Thanks as always for a great post Tom.

GhoulweJ

Trad climber

Sacramento, CA

Oct 24, 2008 - 12:04am PT

Thanks for the report.
Have a good climb tomorrow.

Blakeb

Big Wall climber

Ditch

Oct 24, 2008 - 12:06am PT

Screw the lackeys. Lambone will be missed and the smell of chucks feet most certainly wont be. Sure am glad he got a shower. Nice pics tom, thanks for advice today, and hope to be with ya and the monkey gang on the arches tomorrow. Till the cafe, peace, blake

S.Leeper

Sport climber

Austin, Texas

Oct 24, 2008 - 12:08am PT

I really like the picture of the painter with el cap. God I wish I was there!

SteveW

Trad climber

The state of confusion

Oct 24, 2008 - 07:59am PT

Bump again for a wonderful report!

tooth

Mountain climber

B.C.

Oct 24, 2008 - 08:22am PT

I can't believe the resolution you get with your camera. I can see bolts. BOLTS!

'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber

like Ontario, Canada, eh?

Oct 24, 2008 - 08:35am PT

Very colourful and creative Valley photos, especially the Nose profile. Cool to see the upper corners of the Trip.

You can only stand so many Zodiac and Nose photos, y'know? Knott Tom's fault, obviously, but there are a hundred or so other routes people can climb, too.

Bruce Perschbacher

climber

Carbonale,Ill. 62901.

Oct 24, 2008 - 09:50am PT

Hey Tom,
Thanks again for the great pics, and super report. Enjoy the Arches!
Cheers,
Bruce.

hungry man

Trad climber

around

Oct 24, 2008 - 10:30am PT

thank you Tom!@

elcap-pics

climber

Crestline CA

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 24, 2008 - 10:31am PT

Yeah PTPP I do get a little tired of shooting the same 5 routes all the time... the people on the routes are worthy of my efforts however and I guess some shots on the report are better than none... It would be really nice to shoot some different routes!!!!! Get out on them folks!!

'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber

like Ontario, Canada, eh?

Oct 24, 2008 - 10:37am PT

Which is why we appreciate you getting those cool shots from other parts of the Valley. I've lived in Yosemite for every spring and every fall Wall Season since 95, and I still don't know where all your great colour shots are done!

So tell us - how many extra hours did you put in for this report? Not counting your usual Bridge Time? How long to shoot the colours?

Also, typically - how long does it take you to resize your photos, upload them, write the report, and hotlink all the photos? What photo program do you use?

I am guessing you spend at least two hours in front of your computer every single night, maybe more. It's hard work getting stuff out of your camera, and words out of your head, and putting it down for all of us to see. In which case, I guess I can excuse your continual misspelling of "aspen" in spite of you having been a schoolteacher...

HEY! Wait a minute! Aren't you supposed to be on ROYAL ARCHES????

Gene

climber

Oct 24, 2008 - 11:41am PT

Looking forward to the Arches trip report. Have fun Tom.

GM

Offset

climber

seattle

Oct 24, 2008 - 12:24pm PT

epic fall pics tom! thanks!

have fun pulling down the arches....

paganmonkeyboy

climber

mars...it's near nevada...

Oct 24, 2008 - 01:53pm PT

so sweeeeet....

everbee

Big Wall climber

Toronto

Oct 24, 2008 - 03:48pm PT

Hi Tom,
I went on Zodiac with a friend in between the May 5th and the 10th and I wonder if have any pictures like what you post on the forum wich incredible. I tried to find a way to see me and my buddy together... not just my head and his ass... as we have right now !!!