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elcap-pics
climber
Crestline CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 21, 2008 - 12:03am PT
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ElCap Report 10/20/08
By Tom Evans
Yo... Oh Man, another killer day here in the valley of adventure! More climbers are making the right decission and getting on the big stone. Nose is still practically empty with only one party above Sickle. Today's report is brought to you by Aaron (KFC) Jones who, as my partner today, dragged me up a couple of climbs at the Pile. Thanks Aaron for being a good friend and a great climbing partner.
So, sell the house, divorce the spouse, click the mouse and come with me to the Cap on a great fall day to see all the action up close and personal.
Today's Report, right now...
Pressure Cooker: Alik lead off on a long, mostly hooking and beaks pitch this morning. He stayed calm and even had the presence of mind to turn around and look toward the bridge when some monkey calls went up. When I came back from climbing around 3, Nicki was leading the next pitch which looked just as sketchy as the ones before it. Klaus, you are still screwing with peoples minds!!!
I see hooking in Alik's future!!
Alik responding to monkey calls from the Bridge, while standing on a big hook.
Zodiac: I did see Althea, a young woman with no EC experience climb and fix the so called "direct start" near this route. This stack of whale dung is an affront to the route and should be erased from the rock. Minerals, was this your creation? Going to do Zodiac??? CLIMB THE ROUTE!!!!
Later in the day I did see someone climb the real first pitch, which, BTW, is really nice and a good introduction to the climb.
I hear that a push is on for tomorrow too.
Trip: I did see Big SAR Stud Andy, and partner Jacob take off on this route today. Andy is wearing a black shirt and his partner is almost invisible. I would kick both their asses upon their return but I am, if anything, a realist and want to live out my last few years without a full body cast!
The two speedy guys from the last couple of days went over the top early in the afternoon.
Andy working the lines on the Trip's 4th pitch
Nose: The only team I saw on the route was the team of 2 (not 3 as reported yesterday) who stayed the night at DT. They climbed to and crossed the Jardine Chip Traverse using the usual aid techniques from bolt to bolt. Supposedly, they are a Swedish couple. The woman is very well dressed with a nice red, long sleeve shirt that comes off, when the temps rise, to reveal a very stylish and well fitting electric blue camisole top. Very nice!! I haven't had time, nor inclination, to look at his outfit!! (Oh .. I see from the photo that he is dressed in gray and black... sucky, but the helmet saves the outfit, and he appears to be a lot bigger than I am!!) She lead the Lynn Hill Traverse with some little whippers but ended up making the moves in good form.
NIAD's ... where are you?? The conditions are perfect!! Hello?!
Swedish team on the Jardine Traverse
Smartly dressed Swedish woman leading the Lynn Hill Traverse
Muir: Local boy, Josh (formerly of the Josh and Ian team who we loved to kid about "walks of shame" which I could never get to stick!!!) and his newbee partner (?), climbed the lower section over a couple of days and were last seen this afternoon heading for the Gray ledges. Beauty awaits you guys higher up!
Muir team heading to Gray Ledges
Salathe: I did see a team swing over to the Hollow flake this morning and had the horrifying experience of seeing the leader, smartly dressed in a red shirt, aid the entire pitch with huge cams. That must have been frightening for him, as he left nothing in and just leapfrogged the whole way. If one of those babbies had pulled.... OUCH!!! By afternoon they were just a pitch higher in what looked like pretty warm conditions. Their chances look slim at the moment.
Dihedral Wall: The "practice crew" went away and left the route to the real wall climbers. This Czech team of 3 is putting on a clinic about utalizing the 3 man system to go faster. I saw them this afternoon above the Flake, high on the route. They are moving right along.
Cezch team high on the Dihedral Wall
Octopussy: A team of two is on this route and are just right of this really cool looking arch nearby that has a remarkable resemblence to Half Dome. (They appear to be bailing) It is known as the Octopus Head. Thanks to "Lunchbox" for setting me straight about the route and feature. Still looks like Half Dome to me!!
Half Dome on ElCap
Lurking Fear: I normally don't shoot or record anything about this route but, since I was down there to check out the Czech crew on the Dihedral, I took a look and saw two teams on the route. One at the Traverse pitch high on the route and the other doing the Window Pane Flake.
In other news: The leaves have suddenly exploded in color now and the South Side is really looking fine. All the gullies are sporting yellow Aspins too. The weather is splended and the forecast good. The water falls are booming... Ha Ha! The route you are jonesin for is now open and awaits your ascent. It doesn't get any better than this folks!!! Where the hell are you? Do I have to come out there into the World and drag your butts here?
Maple leaves
Maple leaves in their fall colors
So that's the way it is for this the 20th day of October 2008.
I am out of here for today... ECP's
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Fish Finder
Social climber
THE BOTTOM OF MY HEART
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Oct 21, 2008 - 12:07am PT
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hi tom
thanks as always for the report,
it was good to see you at the bridge, at the art auction and at the food court .
best gregg
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Oct 21, 2008 - 12:34am PT
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Yah dude!!!
Nice shot of the Half Dome on El Cap!
Hey, lovely nature shots.. never thought of you as a nature dude!
Hey, more slander!
Cheers
Hey... Didn't Jardine actually ride that traverse on foot?
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Brian Kimball
Sport climber
Westminster, CO.
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Oct 21, 2008 - 12:57am PT
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Tom as always your reports are a daily inspiration and a simply reminder that YES it is worth it to keep on-keepin on. Hopefully one day I will have saved enough money that I can come out and climb full time!
SO above the red shirt Hollow Flake aider team...there should be another team. Some guy from Mad Rock and a guy by the name of Matt Lloyd. They bivied at Hollow Flake last night and where shooting for The Block tonight. If you can find them on the headwall or Enduro Corner tomorrow and post a pic or to...well they posse here in Denver would really get a chuckel at watchin young Matt piss himself up there on his first time up the Headwall!
Thanks in advance! ;)
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lunchbox
Trad climber
santa cruz, ca
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Oct 21, 2008 - 01:11am PT
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Hey Tom,
That's an amazing photo, truly one of the coolest looking features on the Lower West Side.
That last guy is just left of "The Octopus Head" (pitch 5) on Octopussy. The Reid guide shows a three bolt belay out right on the face so you can rap from pitch 6 to 3.
We were up there in July and bailed from 6. That belay was pretty ugly and we didn't have the kit to patch things up. We backed up those old 1/4" bolts with a couple of pins in an expando-ish flake and rapped from 6 to 4. Maybe that guy is coming down?
Fortunately the bivy at the top of Peter Pan is plush and a great place to hang.
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Regan
Big Wall climber
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Oct 21, 2008 - 01:22am PT
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Hi Tom,
Great to hear about your climbing. Congrats.
Say hallo to Aaron...
Thanks for pics and coments...
Regan
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nutjob
Stoked OW climber
San Jose, CA
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Oct 21, 2008 - 01:54am PT
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Hi Tom,
I swung by the bridge yesterday evening to say Hi, but alas it was deserted. I think I saw you Saturday afternoon, but we were late for a date with Royal Arches. One of these days I'll say Hi.
Yours Truly,
Nutjob
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elcap-pics
climber
Crestline CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 21, 2008 - 10:36am PT
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Yo I am at the bridge from 10 to 4 generally and sometimes not from 12 to 3 if out climbing. Come on by...
Plus Brian, would never recommend someone take up climbing full time as it won't work for 99% of the people who like the sport. Just find a career that allows you some chunks of free time. Too much climbing makes Johnny a dull boy!! I have missed your guys on the Salathe and I have looked at the route carefully these past several days... did they bail perhaps?
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Tez
Mountain climber
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Oct 21, 2008 - 11:40am PT
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Another excellent report!
Thanks Tom!
-Todd
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
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Oct 21, 2008 - 11:49am PT
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Thanks for the report!
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Oct 21, 2008 - 12:35pm PT
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I just love these reports!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Oct 21, 2008 - 01:28pm PT
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Tom, thanks for another fun and well-illustrated report!
> Andy is wearing a black shirt and his partner is almost invisible. I would kick both their asses upon their return but I am, if anything, a realist and want to live out my last few years without a full body cast!
I got a great out-loud laugh from this!!
Keep up the good work,
Clint
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Ottawa Doug
Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
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Oct 21, 2008 - 03:13pm PT
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Hey Tom,
Super cool shots. The air must be perfect for shooting right now. That hooking on Pressure Cooker looks a little too tough for mere mortals. Since I am a realist and don't want to spend my last years in a body cast, I think I'll pass...
Now, on to more serious things. The Swedish lady in the blue camisole. Good to hear that your eyes are sharp as ever! Great to hear also that you are getting out for more climbing. Please say 'hi' to Aaron for me. Keep the stellar reports and pics coming our way. The ElCap Report is the first thing I check at work everyday.
Cheers,
Doug
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Crimpergirl
Social climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Oct 21, 2008 - 10:38pm PT
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Wow. Great weather. And even better photos! Thanks
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Nov 15, 2008 - 10:39pm PT
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Re. Zodiac first pitch direct start:
“This stack of whale dung is an affront to the route and should be erased from the rock. Minerals, was this your creation?”
Yeah Tom, that’s my creation. First FA in Yosemite, December ’93 – Waiting for the Sun. What’s wrong with it?
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elcap-pics
climber
Crestline CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 16, 2008 - 12:59am PT
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Well at best it is a fixed head and rivet ladder and at its worst it enables people to not do the Zodiac in all its full glory! The first two pitches should be climbed as they are good ones with some interesting climbing, not to mention being on THE ACTUAL ROUTE!!! Chop it out man, chop it out.... take the ego hit....
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Nov 27, 2008 - 03:09pm PT
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Uhhh… If it’s fixed, then someone should go clean it up. Is this the only pitch on El Cap that qualifies as a “fixed head and rivet ladder”? Yes, there are a lot of rivets on this pitch – more than I would have liked. But it is what it is. I don’t see how the pitch prevents parties from doing the original first and second pitches; that choice is entirely up to them! I don’t control what people do and don’t climb. The last rivet on the pitch does not affect the climbing on the second pitch, where it joins the original Zodiac. The same cannot be said for the fifth pitch variation (bolt ladder) because the first bolt in the new ladder can be clipped when doing the original fifth pitch. Nope, not gonna chop it. This all seems pretty trivial to me, but I figured I’d reply to your comments, Tom. Have you ever climbed the pitch?
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Nov 30, 2008 - 11:02pm PT
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Why wasn't the Zodiac Direct Start chopped a few years ago by Ivo, Brian and Gabe when they did their clean-up ascent 8-)
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Nov 30, 2008 - 11:27pm PT
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Ha Ha Ha!! LOL Is that sarcasm or are you really that naive Tom?
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lucho
Gym climber
San Franpsycho
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Nov 30, 2008 - 11:41pm PT
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You know it really saddens me to see my friends slandered over the internet. Minerals has established some proud rock climbs over many years in Yosemite and I feel he deserves some respect.
Lucho
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