Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 15 of total 15 in this topic |
Trad
Trad climber
Northern California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 3, 2008 - 09:41pm PT
|
After April Fools we decided to check out The Clonedike (5.9). It's between Craven Image and Vanishing Point, and goes up a flaring crack system with a bit of face and lots of dikes.
(Well I'm pretty sure that's The Clonedike but ever since North Country I'm a little cautious...)
What a fun route!
You can rap (barely) with a 70 m rope but the slingage has seen better days. There's a 3 bolt anchor - a rusty old quarter-incher, a newish 3/8-inch bolt, and a button head. If no one else does it first I'll replace the webbing with something less manky next time I'm up there 'cause I'd rather not rap off THAT again. But we survived this time.
Oh yeah, later on we were at the base of Hospital Corner where a team was getting ready to climb that route. The guy was sitting there putting on his shoes when his partner blurted "rattlesnake!!1" and sure enough there it was, right under the rock he was sitting on.
By the way, does anyone know if it's possible to rap Third Stone from the Sun?
|
|
caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
|
|
Nice going Trad, another West Wall sleeper uncovered! I toproped Captain Coconuts last season after doing vanishing point, a fun climb but would be a harrowing lead. 2 ropes to toprope slingshot. That anchor could use a new bolt too, one good one bad up there.
Haven't done third stone, but the guide shows a fixed anchor atop p1? let us know what you find...
|
|
spyork
Social climber
A prison of my own creation
|
|
Nice one. Thanks for the TR.
I might write one myself, maybe ...
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
I really should go climb there again.
|
|
Trad
Trad climber
Northern California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 4, 2008 - 05:02pm PT
|
Haven't done third stone, but the guide shows a fixed anchor atop p1? let us know what you find...
Which guide? My version of Carville doesn't show anything.
Well regardless, I'll check it out one of these days. I saw that Petch listed Third Stone in a 2006 thread on chimney and offwidth routes, so I hope the "10c" refers to a crack or face move and not some horrendous overhanging offwidth.
Back on topic: not that anyone asked but, for comparison, I thought Clonedike at 5.9 was more fun and less sketchy than the first pitch of Travellor Buttress (5.8)
edit: just did another search and found this for 3rd stone:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=411594&msg=411627
"11 offwidth out a big roof"
So on second thought...
|
|
Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
|
|
Everytime I have climbed or bouldered there I have seen a rattler. Is this just dumb luck or pretty common?
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
Looks like a fun route!
Why doesn't someone just put in bolted rap-rings/chain? Fixed slings look worse IMO (and can get manky).
|
|
the Fet
Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
|
|
By the way, does anyone know if it's possible to rap Third Stone from the Sun?
Easy, but doing Hendrix's guitar riffs would be tough.
Starfleet to scoutship, please give your position, Over.
I'm in orbit around the third planet from the star called
the sun. Over.
You mean its the earth? Over.
Positive. It is known to have some form of intelligent
species. Over.
I think we should take a look.
Strange beautiful grass of green,
With your majestic silver seas
Your mysterious mountains I wish to see closer
May I land my kinky machine
Strange beautiful grass of green,
With your majestic silver seas
Your mysterious mountains I wish to see closer
May I land my kinky machine
Although your world wonders me,
With your majestic and superior cackling hen
Your people I do not understand,
So to you I shall put an end
And you'll
Never hear
Surf music again
|
|
Salamanizer
Trad climber
Vacaville Ca,
|
|
You can definately rap Third Stone. I believe With a 60m rope even. There is an anchor just to the right of the top out of 3rd stone, there is a fixed anchor atop the first pitch (just under the roof) and there is an anchor with rings atop the first pitch of Vanishing Point. On second thought, bring two 60's.
Third Stone is a .10-ish corner system that ends under a large roof. The second pitch pulls a .10+ OW roof with three distinct chockstones in it you can see from the ground, hence the name. You can bail on the roof and climb the flareing hands/bulge to the right for an easier option. Its a few move flareing hands tight spot that goes at about .11b/c. Tops out right on the rusty ol (m)anchors. Bring slings.
|
|
Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
|
|
Nice Trad,
I really wanted to do North country this year, the original way, but real life has gotten in the way. Thank the fates that you are out there crankin" for me so I can still dream!
Zander
|
|
Trad
Trad climber
Northern California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 7, 2008 - 09:55pm PT
|
Thanks for the beta, Salamanizer. I was a little confused from the topo in the Carville guide - thought it was just one pitch that ended under the roof.
The second pitch pulls a .10+ OW roof with three distinct chockstones in it you can see from the ground, hence the name. You can bail on the roof and climb the flareing hands/bulge to the right for an easier option. Its a few move flareing hands tight spot that goes at about .11b/c.
Did you really mean ".11b/c" or is that a typo? Not that I can't believe a .10+ OW roof is harder than .11b/c hands - just making sure. (Because if you meant .10b/c hands instead then there's a chance I can lead it someday!)
Well anyway, we checked out the first pitch on Friday but I'll post the pics in a new thread.
(Zander, have you checked out TMs Deviation yet? I don't want to climb Steck-Salathe' until I hear your report. No rush, though. Seriously. ;) )
|
|
Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
|
|
Hey trad,
Every time I've been up to Sugarloaf this year my partner(s) have not wanted to do TM's. Still top of the list though, and I'll report in immediately after.
Of course I have no doubt you're ready for Steck Salathe right now so don't wait, get up on that thing! Then report in. Oh yeah.
See ya,
Zander
|
|
Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
up Yonder (the edge of Treason)
|
|
I've only been to the Leap twice, & I haven't seen any rattlers there.
Maybe timing.
Looks like a good time. Thanks ALL.
|
|
Salamanizer
Trad climber
Vacaville Ca,
|
|
Trad, no typo. I've climbed the hand crack, choked on a little vommit as I clipped the anchors, but I did it several years ago. I didn't get far on the 10c OW and opted for the .11 way out twice now. It's freakin burly. Vanishing Point is a cruise compaired.
Maybe it's time for another go. Jay Smith route, what do you expect.
|
|
| Messages 1 - 15 of total 15 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!