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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 26, 2008 - 11:56pm PT
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The rest of the family took a trip to Seattle, leaving me with a week and a half to get some vertical in. I haven't climbed in Livingston/Paradise Valley for a while, 'ceptin for trips into the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness to bag a few long free routes on alpine rock. Two friends that I have "mentored", Orrin and Brady, jumped at the chance to go and re-experience a special place.
The souped-up Forester making the tight squeeze through the boulders on the access road.
A late start and hella-hike (1000'/mile for 4.5 miles) earned us the honor of bivying at the lake "condo" for 3 nights.
The boys chillin' before dark. I toted a 2+ lb. Tri-tip chunk for dinner that night, but it wasn't unfrozen yet. Brady packed a lightweight fishing rod along and busted it out as dusk threatened.
Luckily, they stock this 9600' el. lake on a schedule, and Brady's 15 minutes of spinnin' paid off.
Morning (well, noon) broke and we were greeted with this view of a formation called "The Guardian" from our front "yard".
On the approach to our objective, Peak 10842, with Emigrant peak in the background. Notice the skyline and in particular the gendarmes.
Close up of the Penguin Gendarme.
Side view of The Guardian formation, on the approach to the peak.
Our intended route "The Iron Man" follows weaknesses in the center of the South face. The next two photos were taken from the tiny phallic spire casting a shadow in the lower left-hand corner of the shot.
Fun with shadows.
Foreshortened close-up of the South face. TIM (700' III 5.10, 10,842el) angles left up the dihedral, then ramps over to the best crack on the face--full pitch of perfect hands with laybacking, jamming, and railing. One final long cruiser (5.7) rope length to the summit. Sorry no summit photo, maybe I'll remember if I go back in a couple of weeks.
Apprentice Brady beginning the business pitch.
Brady--nearing the end of his onsight repeat of this wild gem.
Orrin getting the second clean. For time constraints, we followed with packs on.
The following day the lads went off to scare up some fun and rocks to trundle, er climb.
My "job" for the afternoon was to put food on the table to go with the Tri-tip. My office.
Another view.
And again.
Success.
Chef Orrin (really) prepares one of the heat sources.
Yummy food at the condo.
Enjoying the fruits of my labor.
Nighty-nite for now. Sleep well and hope to return next year.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Aug 27, 2008 - 12:04am PT
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Looks incredible, Mojede. Thanks for sharing. How many hours is that lake from your front door, all told?
Curiosity edit:
Did somebody slap a bolt in for a hammock? Or just practicing bolt placing on the belly of a boulder?
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
up Yonder (someplace else)
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Aug 27, 2008 - 12:06am PT
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It's pretty sweet looking up there in the Motucky High country.
Damn Nice, TR, dudes........
note: 'd-uppers'?
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2008 - 12:08am PT
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le bruce, seven hours from house in Butte. When I did the FA of the route I lived in Livingston, cutting the time to five.
Yes and yes, but why I do not know.
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2008 - 12:10am PT
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Capn--I put that in the heading because I suck at compressing photos and usually my photo threads load very slowly on dial-up connections.
...a warning, really.
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Kartch
climber
belgrade, mt
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Aug 27, 2008 - 12:13am PT
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Awesome! It's gems like this that nudge me to check this site on a daily basis.
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
up Yonder (someplace else)
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Aug 27, 2008 - 12:13am PT
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Gotcha.....bitchin'.
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MisterE
Social climber
My Inner Nut
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Aug 27, 2008 - 12:17am PT
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That's some quality looking alpine you got there, Mojede.
Great pictoral sequences.
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2008 - 10:31am PT
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Morning bump for the work crowd.
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Prod
Social climber
Charlevoix, MI
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Aug 27, 2008 - 10:40am PT
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Great adventure. Thanks for sharing.
Prod.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Aug 27, 2008 - 11:00am PT
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Fishing, climbing, hangin' around...good times!!!!
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Aug 27, 2008 - 11:40am PT
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Really nice Kevin!
The Iron Man looks sweet...what a gem you bagged there.
Kevin is too humble to also mention he FA'd this route BITD...
If you go back soon Kevin, I want to go...I promise I won't bail this time.
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 30, 2008 - 04:30pm PT
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Thanks, Tom--a bump for the weekenders stuck at their 'puter.
...and for something other than politico expulsion on the front page.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Aug 30, 2008 - 08:53pm PT
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--a bump for the weekenders stuck at their 'puter.
Only stuck till tomorrow morning, then it's off to the rocks.
...and for something other than politico expulsion on the front page.
Thank you. Thank you thankyouthankyou
Politics is fine. Important even. But most of the political crowd on this site just hurl insults instead of trying for meaningful discussion. ST would be a better place if people kept their posts in balance -- at least one climbing post for every political post.
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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yessss
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L
climber
Just surfin' the tsunami of life
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Awesome TR! Those photos were so beautiful...I almost felt like I was there.
Thanks for sharing the trip!
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| Messages 1 - 17 of total 17 in this topic |
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