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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 23, 2008 - 09:31pm PT
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Traveler Buttress Trip Report 7/19/08
Feeling daunted by the eight hour round trip to Tuolumne I managed to talk Bob into going to Lover’s Leap, only five hours round trip. Somewhere along the way we decided on Traveler Buttress, which I’d never done and Bob last did thirty years ago. Being so wimpy about the driving I very graciously offered him the crux second pitch squeeze.
Here’s me preparing for heading up P1.
Here’s a pic of about half way up. It’s really cool flake/crack/dike climbing.
There is a small roof about 3/4 of the way up which has big positive holds. The crux 5.8 flare can be climbed a few ways. First I squirmed up the flare till I could just reach a hold in the back but I was wondering, "where’s the 5.8"? I squirmed back down and tried using face holds to the left and the edge of the flare. This turned out to be no easier so take your pick.
Here’s a pic of Bob in the P2 route crux, a 5.9 squeeze.
The pure squeeze is only a few feet before you can grab a flake and/or some jambs in the back. Somehow it doesn’t make it all that much easier. Pro is good though.
Here’s a pic where it starts to get smaller.
Pretty soon you are out onto the face. The crack above is pretty sustained so there is no real let up. A great pitch. So far the “5.8” sections had been pretty burly so as I lead up pitch three I was waiting for it to get hard. It never really does. You can stay on your feet the whole time. Pretty soon you are out on the arete with amazing exposure and you just keep on it until the roof when you move around onto the easier dikes.
Here are a few pics of the pitch.
Here’s a pic of Bob smiling as he ties off a huge chicken head type thing low on the fourth pitch.
The rest of the pitch is continuous class four dike hiking.
It’s easy to see why this climb is considered to be a classic. Great stuff throughout.
See ya on the rock,
Zander
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Jul 23, 2008 - 10:38pm PT
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Bueno!
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Phil_B
Social climber
Hercules, CA
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Jul 23, 2008 - 11:16pm PT
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Suh-weet!
Very nice Zander.
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goatboy smellz
climber
colorado
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Jul 23, 2008 - 11:16pm PT
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hey there, say zander I've been there back in '94...thanks for the flashback.
You coming out for the boogaloo this year?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jul 23, 2008 - 11:26pm PT
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"hey there, say zander"
neebee = goatboy_smellz?
good pics Zander, thx for throwing them up on the board
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2008 - 01:32am PT
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Hi Goatboy S.
Sadly, I'm not going to make it to the boogaloo this year. You all will just have to party down without me. I sure wish I was coming. Last year was great.
Zander
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Jul 24, 2008 - 02:36am PT
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You've pushed this route to the top tier of my list. It's a multi-tiered list.
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J. Werlin
climber
Cedaredge
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Jul 24, 2008 - 09:10am PT
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Excellent! Always wanted to climb that one. Thanks.
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Jul 24, 2008 - 09:18am PT
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Great pictures, Zander.
I have only climbed a few times at the Leap, and Commie Buttress was one of the routes I did with a barely climbing friend. I could recall the specific climbing with the help of your pictures.
Thanks, Roger
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spyork
Social climber
A prison of my own creation
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Jul 24, 2008 - 11:32am PT
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Nice one Zander. I found that 1st pitch scary.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Jul 24, 2008 - 11:37am PT
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Cool stuff.
I love climbing at the Leap.
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rhyang
Ice climber
SJC
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Jul 24, 2008 - 12:24pm PT
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Good stuff :)
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cmclean
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Jul 24, 2008 - 12:31pm PT
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Nice! Looks like you were milking that squeeze for all it was worth (I think most people traverse to the hand crack about 6 feet below the leader in your 4th picture, where the cracks are closest to each other).
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L
climber
Far off places where I left lipstick traces...
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Jul 24, 2008 - 12:44pm PT
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hey there...say Zander (don't cha just love neebee?)
The way I think about climbing chimneys is this:
Some days you're the ring-tailed cat...
other days...
Dang--I'm fat!
Thanks for another excellent TR!
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susan peplow
climber
www.joshuatreevacationhomes.com
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Jul 24, 2008 - 12:53pm PT
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Very nice plus you got to bag one of the 50 Classics of North America.
I had forgotten how fun that route was.
What's next?
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cleo
Social climber
Berkeley, CA
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Jul 24, 2008 - 01:31pm PT
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looks fun, i can't wait!
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scuffy b
climber
Sartre's No Exit 1/32 mile
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Jul 24, 2008 - 02:13pm PT
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Very nice. Thanks for the report,
especially the pictures.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Jul 24, 2008 - 04:21pm PT
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Nice going Zander! Thanks for the pics!
dave
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nutjob
Stoked OW climber
San Jose, CA
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Jul 24, 2008 - 04:55pm PT
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This was one of my first ticks after moving to SF Bay, following the "50 Classics" book... first time up there spend a few hours wading hip-deep in snow (wearing jeans and hiking boots of course) to get to it, and poked through snow at the top and bailed after seeing an airy black abyss below my feet with the tops of tree branches visible.
I think I leaned or yanked on a cam through the crux wide part on the trip when we did climb it, so I'm up for a revisit at some point.
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2008 - 08:46pm PT
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Hey cmclean,
Yeah, Bob’s a good OW climber so he stayed in the loving safety of the OW. While following I was out on the face as you described.
Hey L,
No choice here. I’m always fat.
Hey Sooze,
Next route is North Country at the Leap...if I can get my head together for the runouts.
Hey Nutjob,
A friend of mine who has done the NIAD told me he took a hang on the OW so you are in good company.
See y’all
Zander
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