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elcap-pics
climber
Crestline CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 1, 2008 - 09:07pm PT
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ElCap Report 7/1/08
By Tom Evans
Yo!.. Really sweet here today. Finally a clear day with no smoke for a change. Unfortunately there was not much action on the Cap but I will share what there was with you. I stayed late in the Café this morning as I had some images to do and my buddies Winky and Nicki showed up. Winky gave me all the pertinent dope on digital processing and how to clean up my images. Unfortunately I don't have any of the programs here that will allow me to do anything other than what I am doing now... and now isn't too bad I think. One of the things I really like about Yosemite is that my fellow photographers are always so helpful and ready to share knowledge with me. I don’t have much to contribute to them but that doesn’t matter here. We are a tight group and it is a pleasure to know we all hold each in the highest regard.
So today’s Report is brought to you by Winky, even though he holds ST in the very lowest regard!
Today’s ElCap Report…
Born Under a Bad Sign. I did actually see Pete out on the lead today. He was high up on some pitch doing a lot of gardening. Earlier he was doing what I guess was some exploratory drilling for oil(?) on the pitch, in hopes, I suppose, of supplementing our depleted oil reserves ;)!! Always thinking of others that PTPP! Anyway the route is obscure, not done much, in a waterfall zone and the belay bolts are most likely shot. Glad that he is fixing up those old belays as he has a lot of freight and others will benefit too if they do the route.
PTPP doing some gardening on Bad Sign
Zodiac: The route is now empty once again. I did talk with the NC boys who put on a clinic these past two days. They fixed to two and had one bivy and were off last evening. Nice stuff….
Nathan Mlot and Peyton Hassinger after Zodiac
Mescalito: Team Tophie and Seth were up and at the Molar traverse when I arrived this morning. They were just finishing up. Interestingly enough, when one of them let out the bags he decided, after about 20 ft. of lowering, that he wanted them back!! So he set up an ascender on the lower out line and tried to haul them back by hand… of course it was a futile endeavor! He did get them pretty close to the belay but those last few feet generate a lot of load on the system and he was not strong enough to turn the trick. They finished the pitch and were on the 5.9 section of the next pitch when I left. They are moving along smartly now.
Molar Traverse SE Face of ElCap Mescalito
Trying to get the bags back!
Climbing at the end of the Molar Traverse Mescalito
New Dawn to Tribal Rite: I did see Wigball, Zak, hiding from the afternoon heat at the top of the third. He was laid up under a shade on his ledge waiting for the shade.
Zak shading up early on ND to TR
Nose: I heard from a guy at the bridge yesterday that two of his buddies from Wisconsin were on the route. I didn’t see them so I sort of let it pass thinking they probably were bailers as it was their very first wall of any kind. Well surprise, surprise!! They were seen this morning climbing off Dolt Tower and heading for ECT. The woman, Rachael Melville, and her partner, Eddy Avalone seemed to have everything under control. She was doing some nice free climbing above Dolt and they did do a sort of “space haul” for the freight. In reality they both got on the other end of the haul line and pushed down with all they had, bare feet and all. They quickly climbed to ECT but took an extended lunch there and were still lounging when I departed. Hopefully they will be aware of the happenings tomorrow morning and will stay out of the way.
Rachael helping with the bags off Dolt Tower Nose route
Barefoot hauling above Dolt Tower notice the difference the colorful shirt makes!
Rachael leading to ECT Nose route
Long lunch on ECT Nose route ElCapitan
Salathe: I did spot the elusive couple that many have seen on the route these past days. They were a pitch above Long Ledge this morning and were gone by afternoon. Mook had reported them as below Sous le Toit ledge when he was working the headwall pitches yesterday. Guess they make it!
In other news: There was a nice gathering last night in honor of Jon Gleason’s 35 Bday. It was nice to see a lot of the folks I don’t get around to see enough. Stew was lapping up the attention from the young hotties who were concerned about his recovery from the recent plunge off the bike. As you recall… “He went down like Billy the Kid”. He is milking it for all it is worth of course! The bridge was really quiet today for most of the time I was there. Nicki came down and lounged around as he was just back from some of the so called “quality time” with his master…. Errrr… girlfriend, I mean. Later Greg came by and a lot of the SAR pukes showed up for a lazy river day. Nathan and Peyton spent a while here too. Scotty V. showed up and I understand he is taking on the task of being an undercover agent, posing as a climbing partner to, so called, “crazy Sean”. This way we have an inside man who can keep the route from getting out of hand… he in fact works for me and will radio me every evening for instructions. The “Sea Horse” is about to be ridden!
The big news is, of course, tomorrows attempt on the Nose speed record by the very able team of Hans and Yuji. They have been in consultation with a tea leaf reader and several psychics who have assured them that whatever happens will occur. With that solid information how can they miss?! There is a building media frenzy developing and I have it from the MAN himself that our own, Ken Yager, will be doing a hold by hold, live commentary for Public Radio.
Well “Balderdash” I say to that! Yager? Who the hell is he??? Is he posting up some pics of the climb too?? I don’t think so!!! You know where the real analysis will be now don’t you?! Yes! Your man ElCap-Pics will the there to decipher every lieback, pendulum, and short fixed pitch. Nothing will evade my eagle eye. So don’t let the hype suck you in Bro… the standard is still the standard and no new whipper snapper, upstart, washed up guide can even come close to the high level of reporting you have come to expect and deserve!! Anyway, please tune in if you can! Good luck with the broadcast Ken!
So be there tomorrow at 6ish and see the whole through your own eyes!!
That’s the way it is for this the 1st day of July 2008.
Tune in again tomorrow… ECP’s
Almost forgot... the big rope is still up but I haven't seen any rappellers coming down it .... maybe I am there at the wrong time.
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Dr. Rock
Ice climber
Castle Rock
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Awesome as usual!
The pics look better, been into the Gamma and the Contrast, eh?
This Pete guy sure does get around a lot.
One second on the forum, then I see him up on a wall, next day , forum, next day granite.
What does it take to become an independently wealthy rock climber these days?
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elcap-pics
climber
Crestline CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2008 - 09:16pm PT
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Pete is a master of the "Fixed Line"
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
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Thanks for the report...
Sheesh Ken. It's like your going for El Cap Pics knee caps!
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Wes Allen
Boulder climber
KY
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Go Rachael! Way to represent with the Miguels shirt!
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Prod
Social climber
Charlevoix, MI
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Winky must be..... (Fill it in yourself)
Thanks for another great report Tom.
Prod.
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freeforfall
Trad climber
Auburn, CA
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Thanks Tom, always nice to be remembered, even if there is an ERRRR involved. Miss you guys at the bridge, hope to see you before you leave.
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Slakkey
Trad climber
From a Quiet Place by the Lake
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Just had to bump up to the top. This and the thread on the heart transplants doing Half Dome, Rate in my book today.
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E
Social climber
Tujunga CA.
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Hey Tom,
What do you mean drilling for oil? Are you saying that Pete drilled on lead? If so-why has'nt there been a public outcry against this guy? Last season Pete "replaced" the dowels on the "welcome to wyoming" pitch on the sheep ranch with full on bolts supplied and sanctioned by Sloan( according to Piton Pete)The rivits and dowels on this pitch were not meant to hold a fall( that's why it used to be A5) Is this acceptable to be drilli'n all over the place these days? I don't think so, keep a good eye on those guys.
Erik E
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elcap-pics
climber
Crestline CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2008 - 08:21am PT
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Eric it is hard to say exactly what was going on ... it is an old route and not climbed much and in a watercourse so things change and stuff needs to be fixed up. mostly just a tongue in cheek comment on my part with my usual incomplete knowledge of the exact situation. I'm sure pete wouldnt be doing that kind of stuff if it wasnt necessary as he has made many ascents and done some good work ... he will tell the tale when he gets down.
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Ottawa Doug
Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
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Great report and pics as always! Stew lapping up the attention after going down "like Billy the kid." Atta boy, we old guys gotta get the attention any way we can. Drilling for oil on the Captain (and a Canadian to boot), duck hunting last week at the bridge. I don't have to tune in to CNN because I get all my news from the ElCap Report. Thanks for the updates and the smiles.
Cheers,
Doug
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hungry man
Trad climber
around
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Go Hans a Yuji! Thanks Tom, I'm ready to start my morning.
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Stanley Hassinger
climber
Eastern US
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Thanks again, Tom, for the great reporting. Especially for the shots of Peyton and Nathan! I talked to Peyton on the phone yesterday. Sounds like they had a great trip up Zodiac.
I can't wait to read about the final Nose attempt by Hans and Yuji.
Best,
Stanley
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up2top
Big Wall climber
Phoenix, AZ
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Hey Erik E, why don't you wait to get all the facts before working your panties up into your crack. I can tell you one fact, one of the "guys" on the climb is actually a lady who has some of the highest ethical climbing standards of anyone I've ever met. I'd back off on making assumtions at this point.
Tom -- who is carrying Ken's broadcast?
Ed
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Doesn't sound like any assumptions were made to me. Tom report's that pete is drilling for oil. That had me thinking the unethical drilling was going on as well. Maybe? Maybe not?
The comment made in regards to the Ranch sounds like first hand info to me.
I'll bet E has a pretty good idea of who pete is climbing with and knows her pretty good. just because she has stong ethics doesn't mean her partner does.
Yeeha!!! How will it play out??
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GDavis
Trad climber
SoCal
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After seeing them haul up that ramp a few days ago I think they suffered enough.
Maybe a broken rivet or something, I'm not sure. Pete (it seems by his postings) is quite an ethical purity. Stylistic... well thats another topic.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Don't be so quick to judge Pete...most likely he's replacing old 1/4" with new 1/4". Nothin wrong with that. He knows what hes doin. Look back on his posts about the bolts on Dihedral Wall.
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up2top
Big Wall climber
Phoenix, AZ
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No, Tommy, comments like "drilling all over the place", "someone should keep a close eye on those two", and implying that drilling on lead on an established route is always the wrong thing to do are tinged with prejudice and judgment. At least wait until the story is reveal to start the slander and debate. Drilling on lead on an established route isn't patently an ethical digression. Especially on a route like BUBS that is exposed to accelerated erosion and doesn't get done very often. Or he may have screwed the pooch and slammed in a 1/2" bolt. I'm just saying -- how 'bout waiting to get all the facts? Speculation just starts rumors flying.
Ed
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elcap-pics
climber
Crestline CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2008 - 02:55pm PT
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Geeze guys... calm down... my comment in the report was just for fun mostly... maybe he wasnt even drilling at all... maybe just warming up a head... it was far away and dark over there... it was for a laugh mostly... so you are right Ed... just let it work itself out ... maybe I shouldnt have posted that at all but I figured you guys were used to my style (or lack thereof) of reporting.
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B_Brenda
Big Wall climber
Ahwahnee, Yos
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Geesh, I leave the valley for barely 24 hours, click onto SuperTopo to catch up with all the news and all heck has broken loose!
When I first read this thread, I must admit I was furious that assumptions and accusations could be delivered without facts. Then, as I shared the thread with Pete (we talk daily) I was reminded that these concerns were made from others who share a love for climbing and for The Capitan. So, I took a step back, a deep breath, and revised my reply.
For any of you that know Tom, you ‘get’ his sense of humor, as well as his writing style. For those of you who know Pete, you know that he has a love for the Capitan that is unparalleled. And, unethical actions on the wall are not in his repertoire.
For those who know his climbing partner on BUBS, “she”, as Ed put it, “has some of the highest ethical climbing standards of anyone I’ve ever seen.”
Kate and Pete are sending slowly, but surely and safely. Pete makes comment that this route is the real deal: stiff, sustained, and some legit A4. He is relieved that his block is finished, “…and now it’s Kate’s turn to take over the lead.” Pete notes that the climbing is a bit harder than Wyoming Sheep Ranch and that obscure routes take a little extra time to climb.
With that said, let me set the record straight, as Pete dictated to me this evening.
“The belays have consisted of an assortment of [terrible] bolts. Every belay but one has required an old 1/4” bolt to be removed, the hole drilled out, and a new 3/8” bolt to be placed into the same hole. The hole count on the route remains the same. In other words, the only drilling that has taken place has been a single bolt at the belays".
And, he adds, "The only drilling on lead was the first rivet above Devils Tower. Here a hole was found where a rivet had pulled.”
Pete said that Jake had told him that when he and Jamie climbed Plastic Surgery Disaster they had hung their portaledge from that rivet and it had pulled out.
Continuing on Pete says,”I replaced the rivet on lead with a new one and that was the only drilling I did on lead”.
Pete hopes that his track record of replacing bolts and rivets on obscure routes, such as Bermuda Dunes stands as a testament to his credibility.
He and Kate would like to thank everyone for giving them the benefit of the doubt. They want everyone to know that they do their best to climb at the highest ethical standard and possibly (for Pete, at least) the lowest [stylistic] standard. Those of you who ‘get’ Pete understand this. Pete also says, “Thanks Tom for explaining your statement.”
They are having a lot of fun and a great time. I’m waiting to see if I have to push back his flight, as I seem to do at the end of every spring season, but that’s the price of being a ‘Big Wall Camper’!
Speaking for myself, I would like to say thank you to those of you who jumped to the defense. I know most of you, and you ‘get’ PTPP. Thanks again, and you know where I live so a cold beer or glass of good wine (I don’t do that two buck chuck thing like Pete does) will be waiting whenever you choose to stop by the house.
Pete and Kate should be down by the end of the weekend and I know he will be anxious to post his trip report and answer further questions.
B~
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