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Roger Brown
climber
Oceano, California
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 26, 2008 - 12:20pm PT
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On the 14th we had a little fixing party over on the North Apron. Representing the old folks were Clint, Kelly, and Bruce. For the younger set we had our favorite ranger Jesse, his wife Megan, and fellow rangers Eric and Roger. By the afternoon of the 15th. ropes were fixed to the top of "Freewheelin", two pitches up "Mother Earth", and one pitch up "Exodus". On Tuesday Ryan (Pyro on the Mountain) and his partner Mike (Dirt) from Stoney Point showed up and moved the ropes up another pitch on "Exodus". 'Freewheelin" is now complete but ropes are still fixed to the top of "Freewheelin" and to an anchor Clint found one pitch higher. This high point allowed a penji all the way over to the top of the 2nd pitch of "Road To Ruin". So, does anyone have a Topo of "Road To Ruin"? It is doubtful any non-first ascent bolts have been added to the route but it is always nice to know for sure what you are replacing. "Ticket to Nowhere" has just the first two bolts on the 5th pitch traverse left to replace and it will be complete also. You folks who did that first ascent should give us a trip report. Remember all those drill bits that broke?? I have decided not to patch the holes that have the broken bits in them. Everyone should see what you guys went thru to get that bolt in there and what you had for a stance. Two bits at one spot. Remember that one? Jay, I took a stopper out from behind that flake at the top of the 2nd pitch of "Road to Ruin" It is stamped JS. I will send it to you if you want it. That is about it for now, I am going back tomorrow and I will post again when I come home in a couple weeks.
Roger Brown
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jun 26, 2008 - 01:55pm PT
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Roger, you rock on. I assume your back is behaving, nice! I might be able to get back
up there the first weekend in July. Hang tight ;-)
I'm curious about the 2nd pitch on Exodus and what the team that did it had to say.
It's telling that they didn't do the next "5.10b" pitch. That 2nd ptich thing gave
me some nightmares, mostly kicking myself for not going for it (off the lone RP).
The original topo in the older Reid guide calls the 2nd pitch of Exodus 5.8. lol...
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Orion
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Jun 26, 2008 - 03:40pm PT
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Thanks very much to you and the crew for your efforts. Last year I enjoyed clipping some of your shiny new bolts on those classic routes.
Keep on sluggin.
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Orion
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Jun 26, 2008 - 03:42pm PT
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And another fun trip report with pictures of the work would be great to see too. Less hot pants in the pictures would be an improvement though.
Cheers,
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jun 26, 2008 - 03:42pm PT
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Roger,
Bob Gaines is mailing me a topo for "Road to Ruin" which I will get to you. Photos from our "rebolting party" weekend of June 14-15 are up at:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=622678
Here are a couple of highlight photos:
Roger at the p4 belay of Quicksilver
bolt proliferation at the p1 belay of Quicksilver
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Jun 27, 2008 - 01:06am PT
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K-man,
the second pitch of Exodus really shaked the leader.
first he climbed straight from the anchor and up toward the obvious good protected crack. (that did'nt work)
next he attempted climbing out left onto a mantle some ten feet from the belay, however when he reached around the bulge he could'nt get to the crack.( that was a scary move to do)
He had to escape fifteen feet far off to the right. then he got up to the anchor. I didn't like having the leader above me, so I made sure if he fell the directional would help out on that type of whipper!
I want to know how can Clint climb so good!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jun 27, 2008 - 01:38am PT
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Re-Rog!
thx
Quicksilver is in the offing now for sure!!!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jun 27, 2008 - 03:42am PT
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Ryan,
> I want to know how can Clint climb so good!
He can? That's news to me! :-)
I stayed far away from Exodus!
And in the photo above, we jugged the 4 pitches on Quicksilver which Jesse, Megan and young Roger had fixed the day before.
Then I heroically led the final 5.7 pitch.
Last year I got up a few pitches at Arches Terrace, but usually with some help from Roger's cheater stick or some other kinda aid.... Awesome of you and Mike to advance the high point on Exodus - it sounds pretty tough.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Jun 27, 2008 - 11:07am PT
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Clint I was thinking you did lead the next two pitches of Exodus after Mike's fix.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jun 27, 2008 - 12:08pm PT
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Yes, Exodus is pretty wild. The first pitch offers a hint of what's to come.
My belayer didn't like the looks of the start of that 2nd pitch, so he did the
trick of belaying about 15 feet below the anchors, this to avoid a factor-2 fall should I fly.
I started straight up, towards the obvious crack. I didn't think too much of it
(the newest topo shows 5.9). I found a slot and quickly fitted in a tiny, A4-sized
brass nut. I mantled up above the nut, moved my feet up, and barely got my
hands on the edge of the corner facing away from me. From there, I figured the
move was about .10c, a layback with not much for the feet. Shaking a bit,
I reversed the mantle and stuck a bigger brassy in the crack. But by this time,
I wasn't sold on doing the move above such sketchy pro (one small nut between
me and the belay 25' below--I know, I'm lite).
Out left, was "easy" looking ground, but certainly no pro.
I tried out right and looked at the vegetated corners (where it looked pretty easy),
but didn't see any real pro, so I bailed. Great work on pushing that line up!
Now I want to go up and try the third pitch, but still have to lead that 2nd! Yike.
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