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Mick Ryan
Trad climber
Kendal, English Lake District
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 11, 2008 - 01:01pm PT
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The second link John.......John Redhead speaks about onsight and ground up climbing just after belaying Neil Dickson on Redhead's own route, Margins of The Mind on Cloggy, North Wales.
This is a double feature contrasting two routes climbed last weekend in the UK. One climber succeeded on a route, the other did not. But is there a difference?
Sonnie Trotter came to Scotland to climb Rhapsody. He put his cards on the table, in the full media spotlight, with all the pressures that come with being open about your ambitions. He gave it his all and he succeeded. The route didn't go without a fight, Sonnie had to extend his stay not once, but twice. Climbers chipped in with financial help - enabling him to stay longer and complete his goal.
Read More With Exclusive Interview: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=06&year=2008#n44731
Neil Dickson walked slowly up to Cloggy last Sunday morning. His climbing partner for the day was John Redhead, his intended route - Margins of the Mind. Climbing on sight, with no knowledge of the route (Redhead couldn't remember where it started - it was over twenty years since he had passed a chalked finger over the wall) Neil slowly inched his way upwards on tiny holds with no meaningful protection.
Read More With Interview & VIDEO: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=06&year=2008#n44731
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GDavis
Trad climber
SoCal
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Jun 11, 2008 - 01:09pm PT
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Amazing. I'm reminded of an article by Galen Rowell, where he published a story on Kauk back in the days when all you would see of climbing was free soloists. Rowell had said that the public perception was that free solo was the ultimate in difficulty and the extreme, while he and Kauk wanted to help people understand that the harder it is, the easier you will fall, so roped climbing instead represented the extreme limit in the sport.
This seems like a happy medium. I hope that guy has a wood box.
Purest form of climbing... not for everyone, for sure. I can't do death routes onsight, I'm too scared. Hell, even rehearsing 'em like trotter is too scary. I read he took 24 50-footers on that #4 micronut. Yikes.
The English. Somewhere after world war II they lost their teeth and they lost their minds.
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Brian
climber
Cali
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Jun 11, 2008 - 01:34pm PT
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Incredible. The video was streaming poorly, so I couldn't really follow all of Redhead's comments, but the written description and the interview filled in the gaps.
Brian
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rick d
climber
tucson, az
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Jun 11, 2008 - 07:31pm PT
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I'm sorry, but that is "it". The whole thing I get from climbing comes out in Redhead's interview. Falling on routes and knowing intimate details (like most climbers practice today) is total and utter tripe.
Everything is like a FA- or emulating the FA as best as possible.
...if you walk up to an unknown wall and look at a line and say "that might go". You finish it off and you've learned more about yourself than anyone else. It does not matter if it is 5.7 or 5.12+- it's all good. To know a little- like if you fall you will die just ads 'spice'.
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