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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 2, 2008 - 12:45pm PT
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Yes, I know it is not as good as the mini t, bigger, bulkier, etc, but is there any reason not to solo with the protraxion? The rope engagement seems to be the same on both devices.
I ask because I own a protraxion, but no mini t.
thanks.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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I'd only hesitate because both devices have teeth, and, a slip might shred your rope sheath.
Another issue is that if you fell and it locked up on the rope, there's really not a great way to release it under a load. That's the beauty of a gri gri. But, the gri gri doesn't travel up the rope as nicely.
I've used an USHBA basic to TR on a few occasions. I like the no teeth aspect of it. And it travels up the rope no problemo.
Both traxions are pretty darn handy devices though...
-Brian in SLC
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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I've used the Ushba device. I quit when I read about all of the ropes it's pinched in half.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2008 - 01:00pm PT
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Well, the mini traxion seems to be the device of choice for a lot of people.
I tried several setups last weekend when climbing with a buddy.
The best was a mini t on the belay loop, trailing a ropeman on a shoulder length sling girth hitched to the belay loop.
also tried mini t on a chest harness (two shoulderlength slings girth hitched behind the back, over the arms) and the protraxion on the belay loop. This moved pretty well, but if you fall, the chest harness catches you, pulls up and pinches your face rather uncomfortably. Any suggestions?
Also clipped backup knots on a separate strand, but this was a big pain in the butt.
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tonym
climber
Oklahoma
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I've been using the Petzl Basic Ascender on my belay loop clipped in with a pearabiner thru the hole just above the ascender jaws. Works like charm the only thing you have to adjust on occasion is the device creeping to one side of the biner if you are making hard moves that put your body into crouched positions. Climbed hundreds of pitches with it, no back-up, taken falls as well. The falls are short almost instantaneous lock-off as there is no slack between you and the cord.
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adventurewagen
Trad climber
Seattle
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I'm interested in this as well. I'm going to have alot of time coming up soon and plan to spend weekdays TR soloing some routes. I can get a mini-traxion as well but seem to hear mixed word on that.
It seems to me just the mini T alone would be good enough? Why would you need another backup. Wouldn't it be safe enough to toss in a single knot just off the deck and then climb with just the mini? I'm not new to rope work, aiding, solo aiding and the works so I'm just wondering why so much hoopla on something that seems so straight forward?
I fix myself a nice thick line, toss on the mini and climb. Nuf said, right?
People keep saying it has teeth that could shred the rope but I see guys fixing lines all the time on routes and running lap after lap with that setup. I've also never heard of anyone shredding a sheath or cutting their rope and plummeting to their death either. No chest harness, no trailing of a ropeman as backup. Just the mini T and a fixed line with some weight on the end and maybe a safety knot in the line to keep from decking assuming the mini t decides not to work.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2008 - 01:21pm PT
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I know lots of guys solo with just the mini-t. But I'm a weenie and the ropeman (or some kind of backup) makes me feel better!
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Indianclimber
climber
Las Vegas
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Petzl croll with mini traxtion ,now I have switched to croll and microcender
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2008 - 01:54pm PT
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That is a good looking setup. Emphasis on the good lookin'!
But my primary interest in using the protraxion... is so I don't have to buy new gear.
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adventurewagen
Trad climber
Seattle
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Wow, that is the setup. The climber doesn't hurt the eyes either.
I understand another backup might make some happy. My question is more concerned with using the mini traxion and damaging the rope? A chest harness keeps you from going upside down and a backup I guess helps if you think the mini-T is going to fail and not catch.
Now my buddy has a silent partner as well he says I can borrow. I've never used it but for TR soloing maybe that's the ultimate way to go.
Realistically though, what do all these guys working El Cap use? I can't see them up there with the chest harness mega setup?
Thanks for the picture though! Excellent information.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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"Realistically though, what do all these guys working El Cap use?"
hahaha... Well, there's just not a whole lot of TR soloing going on on EL Cap. hahaha
Seriously, most people use the Mini Traxion. People who can afford it use two Mini's. Dean uses two Mini's - he climbs El Cap. Maybe that's what you're looking for.
I'd think a problem with the ProTraxion might be how big/long it is. It is significantly longer than the MiniTraxion, which would change the angle of the the device, as well as the rope runnig through it. I haven't tried it, but think it might not want to feed through. Dunno really though.
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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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When it comes to soloing, even top rope, pony up the money and buy the right device for it.
The mini works very well. The pro will suck. I've tried it.
By the way the SP is great for leading but no good for TR.
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Gunkie
climber
East Coast US
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For simple, nearly straight, under a rope length top-rope climbs that are vertical or less steep, I really like my Gibbs Ascender.
The Pro Trax seems cumbersome and toothy. But if that is all you have...
EDIT: I agree with John Mac, the Silent Partner sucks for TR soloing or following your own free leads. However, I love it for lead roped-soloing.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2008 - 02:16pm PT
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Actually I think there is a fair bit of TR soloing going on on El Cap. Who knows how much, I'm not sure. I ran into Matt Wilder a couple years ago and he told me he was working the nose cruxes on TR solo with 2 minis. Seems reasonable to assume some of the same going on over on freerider, we are always hearing about the fixed lines.
The protraxion seemed to lock in falls same as the mini. You are right that it is longer and much more cumbersome than the mini. My real interest is safety. I can deal with some hassle, I don't plan on doing a lot of TR solo, just every so often. So I'd rather not buy new gear.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2008 - 02:17pm PT
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John Mac, what do you mean the pro will suck?
I tried both, on the same day. They seemed to function the same, just that the pro was heavier and protruded farther for a little extra scrapage.
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adventurewagen
Trad climber
Seattle
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Nefarious wrote:
"Realistically though, what do all these guys working El Cap use?"
hahaha... Well, there's just not a whole lot of TR soloing going on on EL Cap. hahaha
Not correct. There are a good number of people going up there and working routes into the ground using TR soloing methods. I just watched a slide show from a couple guys doing a variation to Muir and read about Steph Davis doing the same. I know other friends who have been up there doing the same thing to wire and get pitches free.
It's helpful to know Dean uses two mini's. The guys I know use a single. I think the question is to get a consensus on what everyone uses so that the best methods can be used. I just figure the guys doing TR soloing on bigger features working big routes probably have the best methods to follow. Hence the question.
John Mac - Why does the SP suck for TR soloing? I haven't tried it but my buddy swears it would work great. I'd love to hear your experiences with it in that application though.
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Gunkie
climber
East Coast US
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Why does the SP suck for TR soloing? I haven't tried it but my buddy swears it would work great. I'd love to hear your experiences with it in that application though.
Sounds like theory.
In my experience, it doen't feed well while following a fixed line. I, too, *thought* it would work nicely on a fixed TR. I was wrong. Once I got the rope weighted just right and climbed straight up, the SP worked OK. Otherwise it would bind or lock-up.
I'd love to use the SP as a TR solo device. It's bomber and I paid a lot for it. If anyone has better techniques, let me know.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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TR soloing a pitch here and there on El Cap, sure... I'm aware of that. But it's not something that's happening a considerable amount, like it is in the crags.
Regardless, you'll find that most people, known or unknown, use the mini. It is far and away the preferred device.
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Indianclimber
climber
Las Vegas
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Croll and microcender,I switched as this setup is easier on the rope
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 2, 2008 - 09:34pm PT
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Stylish!
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