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Gunkie
climber
I don't get mad, I get stabby -- Fat Tony
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 31, 2004 - 01:49pm PT
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I used to travel quite a bit for business and always took my shoes and chalkbag, at a minimum. I've climbed at a lot of known and unknown crags, man-made walls which were not designed nor designated for climbing.
My five favorite urban climbing venues:
1. Livzey Rock -- Philadelphia
2. Carderrock -- Washington DC
3. Polk Street -- SF (got chased away and ran three blocks in tight La Sportiva Megas :)
4. Cat Rock -- Central Park, NYC
5. Quincy Quarries -- Boston
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10b4me
Trad climber
Near the Rose Bowl
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Dec 31, 2004 - 02:45pm PT
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favorite bouldering areas: Happies
Deadman Summit/Bachar Boulders
'Milks
T-Meadows
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Blowboarder
Boulder climber
Sandpoint, Idaho
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Dec 31, 2004 - 04:33pm PT
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I'm bored, what the hell.
Favorite bouldering areas:
The Circuit-NCW
Boulder Farm-Sierra East Side
Camp 4
Squamish-Below the Chief
Toulomne Meadows
Roman Nose Lake-Selkirks
JTree
Manressa Grotto-Pend Oreille River
OK, now I'm bored with this, I could go on for hours but for your benefit and mine, won't.
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Gunkie
climber
I don't get mad, I get stabby -- Fat Tony
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2004 - 04:42pm PT
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I mis-typed the title. I wanted to find out where everyone's favorite urban bouldering area was. As in, when I go on my next business trip, where can I score some decent outdoor bouldering/climbing.
Oh well, my mistake.
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shakey legs
Trad climber
san diego ca
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Gunkie when your in San diego go to Santee Boulders fun climbing lots of different type problems. Mission gorge is also good for in town climbing.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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I like the Happy Boulders...cause I suck at bouldering, but they seem easier then granite.
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Gunkie
climber
I don't get mad, I get stabby -- Fat Tony
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2005 - 05:19pm PT
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Gunkie when your in San diego go to Santee Boulders fun climbing lots of different type problems. Mission gorge is also good for in town climbing.
Shaky legs,
Believe it or not, I used to boulder on Pt Loma, right in front of some of the Sunset Clif reef breaks on the concrete retaining wall. One time I got snipped by a crab in the crack between blocks.
Better surf than bouldering there.
I loved getting out to Poway and Mt Woodson. In the winter, I never had enough daylight after work to make the drive.
Thanks for the tips!
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clustiere
Trad climber
running springs, ca
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Mt Woodson has the best crack bouldering fun tr and lead boulders ever. It's soo much fun just walking up the hill climbing beautiful mini classics.
Profile crag in franconia notch sweet views.
Tahquitz, Pokomoonshine.
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shakey legs
Trad climber
san diego ca
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Gunkie another great beach bouldering spot is La jolla cove. I never climbed at point loma but I may give it a look.
Thanks
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Gunkie
climber
I don't get mad, I get stabby -- Fat Tony
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2005 - 01:01pm PT
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One place I always liked was the greenway to the south of Austin, TX. Nice limestone bouldering and climbing. Easy access after working at either AMD or IBM (north). I always got a hotel on the southside of town. The local rock gym on 2nd street is pretty good too. Enchanted Rocks is an awesome place, though not realistice for after work bouldering sessions (1.5 hours away).
Another place I like is Camelback in Phoenix. I met Jim Waugh (maybe it was his brother Mike (?)) there while I was trying to figure the place out in 1992. He showed me a lot of cool bouldering areas. Then he lead me down through a bunch of multi-million dollar homes to his beat up old truck to give me a ride back up to my rental car at the main parking area. He knew all the homeowners by name and they welcomed him to park in their driveways. He also saved me from stepping on a rattlesnake. On the drive up to the main parking area, his truck that had a lot of miles on it gave up the ghost. I offered to run to get my car and give him a ride, but he just said, "no worries, I know the folks who live right here." Well, we were stopped right in front of a huge mansion that he walked right up to and got some help. Impressive.
klaus-
I got chased off the Pine Street wall (I called it Polk Street for some reason) twice. Once around 1991 and once in 1998. I sould have learned my lesson the first time. That aid line sounds cool, but traveling with a full arsenal of aid gear in a garment bag may pose more than one problem.
Sewellymon-
It is amazing how rock can be tucked away here and there. I used to work for a company based near Greenfield, MA (north west portion of the state), and they had their own little sport crag called Mormon Hollow- complete with a bolt wars history courtesy of Ken Nichols.
It's funny to see Ken Nichols' progression from locking down Ragged Mtn to the whole state of Connecticut to parts of Massachusetts to all of MA & RI, to Rumney, NH. He went from being a well respected climber in the 1970's to a pariah in the 1990's.
I agree with your statement that a traveling climber can find climbable rock, whether manmade or not, almost anywhere. I find it incredibly fun to find these little outcrops that support a small, local climbing community. As a fellow climber, the locals at these venues will take you in and show you around (most of the time). Unlike the surfing world where some well-known waves are viciously protected from outsiders. Try surfing 'New Break' on Pt Loma (San Diego) during a good swell without knowing a local and while using a surf leash. I have family that surf those reefs, so I get a pass (marginally). Climbers are the more evolved species :)
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Ca
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Uh, what's the chances that there would be two Waugh's in climbing, and that they would both be really good? Totally unrelated to each other however.
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