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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 6, 2007 - 01:43pm PT
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What is the history of this awesomely beautiful line? I just tried it last Sunday for the first time. A few hangs and a small whip got me to the top on my first attempt and I'd love to redpoint it this winter.
Who found this stellar line? Was it originally an aid line? Who got the FA? I heard Croft tried to onsight solo it and backed off? Any other tidbits?
Josh
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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from the orange guide:
original name: et tu, done on aid by Dennis Johnson c.1972
FFA: TR by John Bachar, 5/78
rated in the guide F15
Quick story: When Largo and Geroge Meyers were doing that video, the Art of Leading, they wanted Kauk to do Equinox. Having never seen the route, he decides that he will need a lap on it so the next day when they film it, he will not have any problems. Me and him go out there one morning.... he literally takes off his Levi jacket, puts on a rack and starts up the thing, no warmup, no nuthin'..... He does it so easily, that when he gets to the top he asks me if he should rap and clean it.... Seeing how casual it looked, I say, "I'll just follow it", and started up. 61 hangs and 4 mutilated cuticles later I wobble onto the top. No need for me to go back..... I think he did it about 3 or 4 times for the video.
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 6, 2007 - 01:48pm PT
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Bachar... should have guessed!!! Did he ever solo that one? Bachar, you post here, got any stories? How long did you have to work it? Who got the first lead? What the hell is F15?
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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didn't Yaniro get the first lead?
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F10 Climber F11 Drinker
Trad climber
e350
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This is out the the Red guide
Computer retard at the controls, rotate your screen if you are having trouble
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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What did the F mean?
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F10 Climber F11 Drinker
Trad climber
e350
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F comes from the NCCS National Climbing Classification System
This system was commonly used at JT in the first several guidebooks
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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It pre dates the Yosemite Decimal System.
Gerry Roach was still using it in his 80's publications.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Anyone who has not seen that classic "Art of Leading" should try to find it just to see RK casually cruising equinox when they did film it. It is inspiring. All the goofiness in the video is kind of fun too.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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I've got a copy, if I can figure out how to make it go from VHS to DVD...
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
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"SLAAAAAACK!!!!"
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euro-brief-guy
climber
mountain view, ca
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JL: "Yeah, dwindling greenbacks 5.12e......"
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euro-brief-guy
climber
mountain view, ca
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JL: "head left at little cheops over narrowing terrain......she's narrow!
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Ammon
Big Wall climber
El Cap
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"NO, THE BLACK IS IN THE CRACK"!!
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euro-brief-guy
climber
mountain view, ca
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RW: "The pot licker...all he needed was a couple of these!!"
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euro-brief-guy
climber
mountain view, ca
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RW: "You couldn't get a pool cue in here...."
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matty
Big Wall climber
Valencia, CA
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Hey Josh,
Hopefully you brushed off my GHEY™ tick marks on that rig from a week or so ago. I was so gassed after working on it in sections, I forgot to brush the bottom half off.
Guess that makes me a raging hypocrite because I bitch about people leaving them.
Hopefully it didn't interfere with your onsight attempt. That thing is hard and painful.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Critical taping beta.
Crowbar use, too!
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SamRoberts
climber
Bay Area
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Ho Daddy- Look at that loop!
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