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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 10, 2007 - 11:11pm PT
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I'm guessing here;....Tucker Tech, Herb Laeger, Big Al Bartlett, Fred Beckey, Louie Anderson, Harvey T. Carter, Todd Swain, Jack Marshall, Ken Nichols, Bob D'Antonio, Remy Brothers, Ed Webster, Jimmy Dunn, ......(I'm at about 900...it's a lifetime goal of mine....)....got any ideas here?
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GDavis
Trad climber
SoCal
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Jul 10, 2007 - 11:20pm PT
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some that may be close - B. Gaines, Dave Kennedy (Mountaineer or SoCal fella), and of course the bird (if you count individual pitches :D hey what is sport climbing anyway!)
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Fluoride
Trad climber
Hollywood, CA
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Jul 10, 2007 - 11:30pm PT
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Fred's climbs in the Pac NW/Cascades alone are probably well over 1,000. But when you start climbing when you're about 14 and do it and very little else nonstop for almost 7 decades, you're easily going to top 1,000. Fred's a climbing machine and FA's have always been his thing.
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bob d'antonio
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Jul 10, 2007 - 11:36pm PT
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Todd... I think I am over 1300-1400. I just did two today (12a and 11c). I feel lucky.
You'll get there.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2007 - 12:11am PT
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Bob;...I try to do one a week.....but don't always hit the mark......them babies slow things down;.....I think it will take me about 3 more years;....hope I hang in there.......thanks for the encouragement......(1000 F A....alot of fixed pins, bolts, dirty cracks, grainy faces, loose holds, long walks....and all the silly names to come up with;......it's wacked......)...I have done mostly all my drilling by hand..(last few years I have the power now....wrist and elbow was not going to last....).)...and NO rap bolting.......I'm a dinosaur.....I've EVEN done a handful of new routes with Flouride.....waz up?......
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jul 11, 2007 - 12:33am PT
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way kewl TG, just a bit more and you'll be in there...
you should start a website or something... ;)
i don't think I've ever counted all the FAs I've been a part of. Though I have a count as of a few years ago from the Pinns routes I've been a part of, care of CC. Nothing near a 1,000.
Jeebus that's a lot when you think about it. So that's 10 sets of 100 FAs.
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Jul 11, 2007 - 12:46am PT
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Todd, I once calculated very roughly that in 45 years of climbing I travelled about 500,000' of previously unclimbed technical ground. That equates to about 100 miles or 5,000 pitches of new-route-ing. Of those 5,000 pitches, about 20% are really good, worthy of repeating. That equates to about 1000 pitches or 200 routes. These are the climbs that are going into the book I'm trying to finish. Most of the others can and will be be forgotten with no loss to the climbing community.
-ExhaustedJello
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jul 11, 2007 - 01:00am PT
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I shoulda kept count; I still could nevera beeen a contender.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Jul 11, 2007 - 01:00am PT
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Don't forget some of the old LV crowd - they've got some pretty long FA lists as well - Joe Herbst, Jorge and Joanne Urioste, Larry DeAngelo. Did a nine pitch FA up in First Creek with Larry on my way to Sushifest back in March so I know he's still clicking them off. Sounds like Joanne is still real active as well from what Jim Anglin reports. And it would seem as though our very own Piton Ron must be up over that mark by now one state over. I know I come up way way short in both routes and yardage, but I've left a few gems scattered here and there...
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Misha
Trad climber
Woodside, CA
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Jul 11, 2007 - 01:46am PT
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I have about 997 to go. At this pace, I should get there in about 230 years.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jul 11, 2007 - 09:29am PT
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Not so sure I'm over a grand, but its not the quantity its the quality that matters to me.
But thanks anyway Joe.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2007 - 10:00am PT
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They can't ALL be dick-wrenching mega-classics.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jul 11, 2007 - 11:41am PT
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um, do boulder problems count?
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Knob Central
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Jul 11, 2007 - 11:52am PT
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Let's hope so Bob. Otherwise I am only good for 30 or so. A mere pittance.
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Jul 11, 2007 - 12:52pm PT
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I'm right behind you, Misha, at 999 to go.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jul 11, 2007 - 12:56pm PT
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Maybe not initially Todd.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Jul 11, 2007 - 01:03pm PT
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I once asked Fred that with so many FA's and so many routes in general, climbed, what his favorite climb is. His response? "The next one," he said. How cool is that?!
Fred's awesome! I'm lucky enough that we're talking about doing some Sierra stuff when he is down this way again, later this year.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Jul 11, 2007 - 02:33pm PT
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TG states:They can't ALL be dick-wrenching mega-classics.
Perhaps true, but some people have taken that to the other extreme.
On the other hand, I prefer the quality over quantity approach. Probably have 700+ more to go. At the current rate, this will take only a few hundred more years.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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Jul 11, 2007 - 03:01pm PT
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I must be downright lazy. I’ve been scoping FA’s since the 70’s and all I have to show for it is about a dozen routes in Josh, two in The Gorge of Despair, about a half dozen up at Courtright Reservoir, a couple at Dome Rock and one in The Needles proper, three or four at Church Domes, another dozen or so in the Kern River Canyon and a few in the Panamint Valley area. I figure about 40 total. And then there’s those two unfinished projects…
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Jul 11, 2007 - 03:31pm PT
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Which Todd? Swain? I've done more Swain routes than probably anyone on this planet, except for Todd Swain, of course. They're not all choss.
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