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strudel
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 15, 2004 - 08:17pm PT
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In regards to the recent ASCA activity, this is one route that to me is way to dangerous. If ASCA stands for American Safe Climbing Assoc. then it is my entention to make that route safe for everyone out there. Im looking at spacing the bolts 10 feet apart after 50 feet and 5 feet apart from the ground til I reach 50 feet up. Would anyone want to help with this project since it is 4 pitches and thats alot of bolts.
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oldschool
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Sep 15, 2004 - 09:40pm PT
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Hey Disco - DICK!!
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Sep 15, 2004 - 10:07pm PT
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go for it dude, don't for get your extra batteries for the power drill. you'll need to figure out how to rappel from the top to do it in proper style.
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Mungeclimber
Social climber
N. California
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Sep 16, 2004 - 12:40am PT
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Alright, who was so bored they had to post as disco?
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strudel
climber
yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 16, 2004 - 01:07am PT
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to all that read this post....i am serious. this is not a joke. Routes like this serve no purpose. its nothing but an ego trip for bachar and yearian. its ok for beyer to remove the WOEML, and its ok for asca to add bolts? by next spring the route will be around for everyone to take a chance at an amazing line in the meadows!
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Flash
Ice climber
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Sep 16, 2004 - 01:24am PT
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Too late, I just retro'd it this afternoon, on lead, from stance.
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ct
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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Sep 16, 2004 - 04:50am PT
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Interview with Steve Schneider
May 9th 1997
"Do you ever think the Toulomne testpiece Bachar/Yerian will ever be rap bolted?"
"It might be possible but they would get chopped. I would chop them if someone did that. That would be a blight to everyone who has gone up there and gotten the guts to do that route. That would be shitting on them. It would be bringing it down from another level.
You can fall from almost anywhere on the route and you won't die, you'll get hurt. So its not like you are looking at a death fall. You have to really build yourself into this spiritual mind awareness plane of really keeping your mind in control in the face of a big fall. It's been one of the best experiences. People have come from all over the world to do that route. So anyone who would put bolts into that, I can tell you would be slandered for life."
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theoncler
Big Wall climber
yosemite
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Sep 16, 2004 - 10:52am PT
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hey disco, lets do it!! i just retro fitted my bulldog drill with a marine battery that fits in a backpack which provides enough juice to drill easily 50 bolts before recharging. you must have read my mind, cause i have been thinking about this for a while.
cannot wait to bolt the motherf*#@cker!
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yo
climber
NOT Fresno
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Sep 16, 2004 - 11:03am PT
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That's a great quote from Steve.
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Rhodo-Router
Trad climber
Otto, NC
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Sep 16, 2004 - 12:45pm PT
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(OK, I'll bite)
Once I complete my nefarious scheme to free-solo the thing, I'll be justified in chopping ALL the bolts, right? Just to show JB what a weenie he was...
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TheMaestro
Big Wall climber
Yosemite
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Sep 16, 2004 - 02:14pm PT
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hey disco or dicko and onceler, sure it might be a good idea to bolt the route, and it might also be a good idea to trash your cars while you do it. not to say that i myself will do it, or maybe i will. but bears in yosemite have been none to trash peoples cars who deserve it. maybe you two are just those who deserve a good thrashing for your lack of ethics and good judgement.
happy bolting
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Clayman
Trad climber
CA
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Sep 16, 2004 - 02:37pm PT
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just put up we well bolted 4 pitch sport route 5 feet either left or right of the line. the knobs wouldnt be that much diffrent.
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dedbro
Trad climber
joshua tree,ca.
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Sep 16, 2004 - 03:45pm PT
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To the persons bolting this fine statement in America's climbing history, would be a slap in the the face to the FA party,but,also to those that sucked it up and pulled it off.What ever happens to you,you will be bringing upon yourselves.Not to mention, now bolts will be chopped.In the end,who or what pays the price?
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TheMaestro
Big Wall climber
Yosemite
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Sep 16, 2004 - 04:00pm PT
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hey disco stu, you hear that? i think i hear bears a comming.
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Demented
climber
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Sep 16, 2004 - 04:18pm PT
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yea what dingus said
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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Sep 16, 2004 - 06:32pm PT
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Dude - There is no such thing as "safe" climbing. If the B&Y had a bolt every 3 meters someone would still find a way to ge hurt or killed on it sooner or later. Leave it be. It's a classic tespiece. Don't make a fool out of yourself over a route you can't do.
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Chico
Trad climber
Mt. Shasta, CA
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Sep 16, 2004 - 06:40pm PT
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The route is what it is. Why not focus on fixing routes that actually need to be rebolted from a hardwear/safety stand point. If you feel uncomfortable with the length of the run-out on the B-Y route...then don't get on the route. Plain and simple. Question- If you are so worried about run-outs, then why don't you go sink in some fatties on Snake Dike? Just food for thought.
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dakine420
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Sep 16, 2004 - 07:02pm PT
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hey mark,
SHUT UP!
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mark
climber
yosemite
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Sep 16, 2004 - 08:50pm PT
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to ksolem, I must say that from someone who has never seen disco stu climb you make quit a jackass out of your self in statements like that. the BY is a fine climb and worth the sweat and labor for everyone to enjoy such a stellar climb. here's what i thought about. I will color code the bolts. the red will be the original bolts, and the green the new. If you want to climb the original line, only clip the red. and if you want to climb the safer route, clip'm all. thats a fair solution that will make everyone happy including bachar and yearian.
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ct
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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Sep 16, 2004 - 09:25pm PT
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First of all, you're spelling the name of the route, and the individual wrong. It's Yerian, not Yearian.
Second, you're wrong. Your color coded solution will not make everyone happy.
Third, any bolts you place WILL be chopped. That sentiment was expressed by Steve Schneider in the interview I posted above back in 1997, as well as many times over in this forum.
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