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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Camp 4, Site 10
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 28, 2007 - 06:13pm PT
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In our last installment here http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=386125&msg=386380 the fools found and sent Recreational Struggling, V-Circus Trick or 5.awkward. Today's installment is brought to you by....Olde English 800, the breakfast of champions.
While resting a nagging wrist injury, I decided to explore the talus field above Camp 4 for more potentional wide crack boulder problems. I took a few of these to help keep me hydrated:
Dropping down the hill from Recreational Struggling, I saw a weird feature about 50' away. "That can't really be a roof crack in there, but I'll take a look anyway". And there it was...a 11' long, horizontal roof crack about 10-12" at the lip, flaring and tapering to around 4" about 3' deeper. KickAsssss™!
Yep, that's a #6 friend and an old #5 camalot in the crack for size.
The only problem with this baby was the horrendous landing. 4 foot pointy boulders littered the drop zone. So the next day I took a young strong local up to show him the find and get help cleaning and leveling the thing. 2+ hours of work resulted in a flat landing and relatively clean rock.
A couple of days passed and I was ready. It went down on the 3rd attempt. The next day, we returned with the YSL (young strong local) and a campground host for the 2nd and 3rd ascents.
Host2 trying to find a good sequence:
Host2 looking strong, but strength is no substitute for technique:
YSL halfway through the 2nd ascent:
The crux of this thing is the lip encounter where you basically have to go into a horizontal squeeze chimney position until you can switch to a mantle. The YSL botching the exit on his first attempt:
Initially YSL and I figured this would be harder than Recreation Struggling. But it was actually quite a bit easier.
Manual Labor, V-Hang-n-Squeeze or 5.10+
Jaybro, Ed, Gary, Spyork...it's waiting for you.
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spyork
Social climber
A prison of my own creation
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Jun 28, 2007 - 06:47pm PT
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Wow, looks hard! Nice work! :)
Gonna have to find crash padz!
I am up in Sonora pass for a couple weekends, but will try to get down there.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jun 28, 2007 - 07:36pm PT
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hhhhmmmm?!
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Moof
Trad climber
A cube at my soul sucking job in Oregon
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Jun 28, 2007 - 07:42pm PT
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Sit starting a crack is contrived.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Camp 4, Site 10
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 28, 2007 - 09:23pm PT
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"Sit starting a crack is contrived"
Tell it to the guy who put up Bachar Cracker.
Most climbing is contrived, I can walk to the top of El Cap.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Jun 28, 2007 - 09:26pm PT
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hahahaha! good one....! Bad ASSSSSSSSSS momma next??? maybe in a few days.... we will need video for the nonbelievers.
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Mimi
climber
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Jun 28, 2007 - 09:28pm PT
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Moof, please explain.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jun 28, 2007 - 09:41pm PT
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oofa
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Jun 28, 2007 - 10:20pm PT
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I'm leaving now. I should be there in 3 1/2 hours.
Zander
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J. Werlin
climber
Cedaredge
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Jun 28, 2007 - 10:40pm PT
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Elcap you are a veritable sommelier of offwidth vintages -- no doubt ol' E is the quintessential selection for such tasty climbing.
Sit down starts are contrived? Sh*t, obviously that dude has never tried my sweet sit-start variation to Sacherer Cracker.
Can't wait for Episode VI.
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WBraun
climber
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Jun 29, 2007 - 12:22am PT
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Wow
That's a cool looking crack boulder problem.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jun 29, 2007 - 12:35am PT
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Good job there Elcapinyoazz dood!
Keep up the good werk and thanks for the fresh dispatches.
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Mimi
climber
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Jun 29, 2007 - 12:52am PT
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'The YSL botching the exit on his first attempt:'
hahaha, that's cold. Looks like a determined YSL.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Jun 29, 2007 - 01:23am PT
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ElcapinYOURazz...homeboy.......(Thanks for the postcard;..we miss ya.....more abuse planned for you next Josh season...)
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Jun 29, 2007 - 01:53pm PT
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Here's one for Will.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Jul 14, 2007 - 05:07pm PT
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A bump for Phat-ness™™™™ on the front page.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jul 14, 2007 - 09:23pm PT
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phat bump
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jul 15, 2007 - 11:31am PT
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Gratuitus Will in wide style
phat bump
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Jul 15, 2007 - 03:16pm PT
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phat bump
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| Messages 1 - 19 of total 19 in this topic |
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