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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 7, 2007 - 11:18pm PT
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Just keeping the photo-climbing-related momentum alive...my version of projectile photo-ing. Climbed in June of '95 with two of my favorite net-climbing-buddies.
North Face of Sentinel Rock
Somewhat unique perspective of Sentinel, shot from near the bottom of the descent gully.
Approaching up the last ramp to the base of the route.
Brutus about to enter the maw on the first pitch.
Brutus working that action on the Wilson Overhang.
Inez near the top of the sixth pitch.
Bruce on pitch seven.
The wicked wide crack pitch after doing the short rap off the left side of the Flying Buttress.
Starting the tenth pitch (face pitch)
Brutus in The Narrows. Tight fit!
Brutus on pitch thirteen. Probably about 8pm or so.
Brutus starts up the last pitch...we topped out at midnight.
Brutus and I had hiked to the top of Sentinel the day before to pick up some gear he'd had on top for doing some maintenance on the route. We dropped off all the bivy gear and food for the next night, gathered some wood, then hiked back down. What I didn't realize at the time was WHAT was in the food stash. After topping out at midnight, we celebrated with a box of wine, grilled prawns, mushroom rice, and grilled chicken boobs. Jeebus, it was a feast!! The next morning dawned beautiful blue and sunny. I wasn't even out of my bag when Brutus comes over and hands me a giant Mountain Dew.
In case anyone doesn't know it yet...Brutus Rulez!!!
Battered hands the next morning.
The awesome view back down to the Valley from the notch.
Achilles on the summit celebrating victory!
Brutus on the descent.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Good one!
Achilles on the summit celebrating victory!
Can a "package shot" be far behind???
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the Fet
Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
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Baggy sweats were totally awesome.
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Matt
Trad climber
places you shouldn't talk about in polite company
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awesome!
thought that guy'd sworn off the valley
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Good one again!
I'm frothing at the mouth,
Gotta git some mo ah dat.
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spyork
Social climber
Land of Green Stretchy People
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Great TR!
That one's on my list fer sure!
Now I gotta keep training on the Chimney and OW, and find a victim, err partner...
Steve
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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zowie! thanks for the report... starting to get quite a photodocument of the Steck Salathe in taco land!
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Brutus does rule!
The stash of treats on top is pure Brutus too.
Topping out at Midnight on SS. Been there, done that and no treats to boot!
Thanks
karl
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder
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I'm frothing in my wheelchair.
Maybe when they install a cable-car to the top for a TR...
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monolith
Trad climber
Albany,CA
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Been back at the car at midnight(Halloween night), but would have been much more enjoyable to have a stash on top and spent the night.
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atchafalaya
Trad climber
California
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thanks, forgot the narrows were that thin. Sweet tr.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 8, 2007 - 08:52am PT
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The Narrows were another story of Brutus-generosity. I'm a big boy and the claustrophobic idea of trying to squiggle up into the Narrows and getting stuck didn't appeal to me at all. It didn't help that Brutus was telling me stories about some large friend of his that got jammed up in there and only managed to get through by screaming to the point that his chest cavity was completely drained and he could make progress an inch at a time. Plus, it was getting late and we needed to keep moving.
To solve the problem, Bruce led the Narrows pitch in about three minutes total. Once there, he pulled the rope up, tied some gear on the end and, after a few tries, managed to get it to swing back into the chimney outside the chockstones. I was free to climb to the outside and up from there. I still remember getting out there and doing this bizzare pirouette to get straightened out when I left the chimney. Salathé’s bolts were out there swinging in the breeze. Very cool.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Cool beans!
That would be an awesome bivvy, but I'm way too lazy to make an extra trip.
However, if it was cheap enough I might pay to have a catered bivvy up there.
talk about impressing a date.
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piquaclimber
Trad climber
Durango
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Very fun. Thanks for posting up.
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artmusicsouth
climber
VA
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I particularly enjoyed the pink and purple pants. Woohoo!
Mark
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Great TR,
I remember being so tired and beat at the top. If someone had handed me a Mountain Dew then I would have sworn everlasting fealty. You guys have style!
Zander
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L
climber
The City of Lost Angels
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Steel--That shot of the Valley from the Notch was incredibly beautiful, and Achilles on the summit was just Pure Art. Spectacular TR--thanks so much!
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frisbee
climber
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I really really want to do this route. Thanks for the pics and write-up!
Jake
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 8, 2007 - 01:11pm PT
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It's pretty well known these days, but I'll reiterate...this was one of the burliest, physical routes I've ever done. I felt pretty beat up for most of the route. Not sure what would be good preparation, just be forewarned that this thing will pound you.
I've heard Yosemite Point Buttress is in the same vein as this route, but I haven't done that one. Funny how both of those completely burly-style crack routes were first done by Allen Steck, who I've seen dance up face routes without the slightest sign of effort. Plain truth...that dude could (and still does) send!
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