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brook_alongi
Big Wall climber
Everett, WA
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I thought that Pipeline was free soloed for the first ascent?
Maybe I'm remembering my facts incorrectly, but I do recall that detail. Anyway, it doesn't matter. It's burly, period.
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Grug
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
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Pipeline was free-soloed on the first free ascent. Many of the sawed-off tubes were still in place in 1979.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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As an aside, there was this German guy in the Valley around '81 or '82.
His name was Sonny. He was the Proto-Uber-Man. Stark blue eyes, a massive frame and a tight cropped mustache; the guy was unstoppable on walls.
If Clancey were to read this he'd post up some stories for sure.
Perhaps it was for the Zodiac: the wide pitch or whatever, but Sonny had fabricated his own tube chocks by cutting cross sections out of a helicopter skid!
He called protection in general, "Materiel" and would say "Vee Need More Materiel"...
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Read and see more about Pipeline on Mike Hengeveld's website (careful, you may get psyched to do it!):
http://home.primus.ca/~dooley/climbing/offwidths/episode5.html
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Thanks for the reference to Mike Hengeveld's stories of Pipeline. In fact, he's done the climb twice - some people never learn. But he's still my friend, although he's temporarily abandoned offwidthing for parenthood. And his website is pretty good, though not lately updated.
I suppose we could re-direct this thread, and everyone could tell "the most horrible off-width/chimney I've ever done" stories, which might be lots of fun. I still hope to learn more about the origins and evolution of tube chocks.
Anders
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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thanks Clint, that is a wonderful site!
I loved Episode III
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Roger Breedlove
Trad climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Hi Anders,
I have been trying to think of what was going on with tube chocks when Chouinard and Frost came out with their design.
It seems like such a simple idea I would guess that there were homemade versions of similar designs that preceded Chouinard's and Frost's design.
However, I don't remember any thing before, at least not in the Valley.
I still have two or three of the original designs. They are in great shape because they didn't get used much--they were hard to use. Somehow, aluminum bongs seemed to be more versatile.
Best, Roger
Great cartoon.
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chiranjeeb
climber
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Hi Grug,
Aren't you the person who free-soloed Pipeline for the FFA? It will be nice if you could tell us about your experience.
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Grug
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
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chiranjeeb. There's not a whole lot to this story. In 1979 I was in Squamish with Tom Gibson, George Manson, Rob Rohn, and Mike Tschipper. We had been coming to Squamish annually for the last 2-3 years. We met up with Squamish locals Perry Beckham and perhaps Scott Flavelle. On that trip, Tom and Rob put up Freeway, one of the great Squamish long free climbs.
Perry was the one who talked up Pipeline. He had known about my Lost Arrow Chimney solo. I remember him showing us the climb from still some distance away the evening before I climbed it. I can't remember much else but setting out the next morning by myself and doing it. Those sawed-off pipes were plentiful (at least 4 of them), and I vaguely remember having a hard time getting around at least one of them.
Perry had suggested the FFA name be called Pipeloads. I sort of agreed, but apparently nothing came of it. I had no idea that this climb would become a classic.
BTW, Hengeveld's article is pretty darn amusing.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Thanks for that post Clint. What a cool looking line. Now I want to do it.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Yes, important to remember that Greg Cameron free-soloed Pipeline in 1979 - probably the second ascent, and the first free ascent. Pretty bold stuff!
There are also the Tetons (Teetons? Titons?), on much the same principles. Long pieces of t-bar stock, ends tapered in. Usually used end-ways, sometimes side-ways.
The nut museum website is really good - I'd read about it before. As a trip to Corsica doesn't seem likely any time soon, the site will have to do.
Anders
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Chief
climber
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Jun 28, 2010 - 11:25am PT
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Bump for Grug's on sight, free solo first free ascent of Pipeloads.
A memorable day indeed!
And Greg did throw my tube chocks off the Pillar on purpose.
That was the genesis of the now infamous bolted lieback into the Flats.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 28, 2010 - 12:45pm PT
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Perhaps Tricouni (Glenn) can add stories and photos about the FA of Pipeline, in 1966. He did it with Leif-Norman Patterson and Barry Hagen. I also forgot to mention that they obtained at least some of the aluminum pipe from my father, who was an engineer with Alcan - I remember one of them coming to our house to get it.
I wonder what became of those pipes? Buried in the loam under the cliff, or?
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rockermike
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Jun 28, 2010 - 01:10pm PT
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I thought it was either Bacher or Werner who invented the tube socks?
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jun 28, 2010 - 01:30pm PT
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Dan Smith and I made some crude tube chocks, using aluminum pipe about 1 1/2 inches in diameter, in 1971. We weren't aware of anyone else having them then, but I rather doubt that we did it first. If you're interested, I'll post a picture when I get home.
John
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Jun 28, 2010 - 01:39pm PT
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I could have sworn I had one on my rack in '72 or '73. Between those and the big Chouinard hexes, the crag often sounded like there were wind chimes hung all over the place.
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Jun 28, 2010 - 02:18pm PT
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Very funny story Piton, I have to say, "been there, done that".
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