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sling512
Trad climber
Chicago
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 8, 2006 - 10:46am PT
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I'm having some trouble finding any route info on the South Face of Half Dome. I know it's famously devoid of anything, but there MUST be some climbable routes. I read John M's rescue story from up there, but no mention of actually finishing the route. He talks about some good free climbing potential but has anyone done anything?
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Calif
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Southern Belle is a free route that begins just right of the Harding South face route, crosses into it midway and finishes to the left of it up high. It is unrepeated despite strong attempts by Alan Lester & Hank Caylor(who took a 70' fall which broke his leg). Hank declared it scarier than the Bachar Yerian!
Eric Kohl also did a solo route called Lost Again, VI A3+. It is a couple hundred feet to the left of the Harding route & might be unrepeated. The Harding route has had a few repeats and has aging fixed anchors.
Levy
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sling512
Trad climber
Chicago
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 8, 2006 - 11:23am PT
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Seems ripe for some adventure climbing then!
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BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
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Someone should girdle traverse Half Dome like skinning an apple, in a spiral. Go all the way and drop down a few hundred feet each time. It is so overhung between Tis Sa Ack and Bushido that there would have to be a lot of nailing. You could stay up there for months.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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The possibilities are endless...
Wings of Peel
Wings of Speil
Wings of Squeal
Wings of Steal
Wings of Wheels
Wingers of Steel
High Rollers
Hooks Of Squeal
Hunt And Pecker
Iron Tap Dancers
Rock and Roll
Slab Dancers
Slab o' Fools
Slab Of Dreams
Slabotage
Slow Hand Jack
Stain Of Effort
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Wade Icey
Social climber
the EPC
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Karma- I. Monkey and Chicken Skinner. '80s. No second (?) Reid Guide
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bringmeshelter
Social climber
la la land
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Eric put up Lost Again when he was like 6! Mega proud if you ask me... youngest FA ever of a bigwall? HAHAHA
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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oy, you guys never forget!
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Forget El Cap the South Face of Half Dome is the future of Yosemite free climbing. Now I know why Klaus wants all that 1/4 in gear. Klaus , let's see a topo or photos of the Megashear - Proud
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sling512
Trad climber
Chicago
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 8, 2006 - 04:49pm PT
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I suggest setting up a 'Camp 5' at Lost Lake to facilite the fury of route that are bound to spring up!
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ThomasKeefer
Trad climber
Monterey, CA
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I have heard that the bears are pretty rampant there at the lake for those that are choosing to bivvy there. That seems to be fueled by the proximity to the camping at Little Yosemite Valley of the JMT and the less than suitable food storage tactics for those choosing to bivvy there prior to Snake Hike climbs.
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Dirk
climber
Curry Village
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There may now be some post-Harding anchors on SFHD, but don't expect three ASCA bolts at at station... or even one. The route has been repeated maybe 10 times to the best of my knowledge. While the Northwest Face has seen a girdle traverse the entire formation has yet to be circumnativated--a seemingly ideal task for Kohl, he could just continue to establish pitch after pitch of obscure A5 over multple laps.
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Here you go Al Dude… You should go bag the second with SG!
Topo drawn by Klaus.
Not sure where the rack list came from – C Mac?
This topo is part of the downloadable “Obscurities” here on this site. Check it out.
Yosemite Big Wall Obscurities:
http://www.supertopo.com/topos/yosemite/obscurities.pdf
Belay 6:
Photo by Andrew McGarry
There is a picture on pages 20 and 21 in the ’01 BD catalog and another picture (same pitch) in the ’03 Climbing Magazine Weekly Engagement Calendar… Photos by Andrew McGarry.
Ed, that wasn’t your fault – it’s a misprint in the ’93 Reid guide!
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Bryan,
I'm curious, given the terrain looks like pretty scant slabs for much of the way, how much drilling and hooking was used on that route if any?
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TradIsGood
Trad climber
Gunks end of country
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Awesome picture!
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bringmeshelter
Social climber
la la land
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Bryan, where is your beer?
Is the orange jug filled with liquor?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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I should have at least checked it out on the Forum before posting... not hard to do. The mental image of a kindergarten aged klaus chugging an OE while putting up an A5 obscurity is somewhat amusing and not too far fetched.
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bringmeshelter
Social climber
la la land
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I'm always on a beach in my mind... flying too
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Nice, Klaus!
Joseph, the aid climbing is limited to pitches 3, 4, 11, and 12. Everything else goes free. But, that’s not to say that there isn’t any free climbing on the aid pitches… The upper part of pitch 3 and pitch 4 are basically rivet ladders, with a few hook moves. There are probably less than a half dozen hook moves on the entire route; there are no bat-hook holes. It’s pretty much a free route with a little bit of drilling and nailing to connect the free sections. There is also some nailing on some of the free pitches. I only led pitches 4, 11, 12, and the beginning of pitch 8. Klaus is the free climber.
Sorry Jake, the orange jug contains Gatorade with no extras. I’ve got a beer stashed somewhere in that pile of stuff, though…
Yeah, Mike. We had a lot of fun on that route.
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bringmeshelter
Social climber
la la land
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Klaus was trying to create his triangle of sluts up there! Wait this belongs in coiler slander fest.
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