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Fargo
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 6, 2002 - 11:20am PT
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What's the scoop on Glacier Point Apron?
Can we climb all over it or what should be avoided?
Can you advise me of some great routes without death factor?
Jim Bob be serious!
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WankerSkanker
Novice climber
Bumfook Egypt
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 6, 2002 - 11:36am PT
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The scoop: Cool slab and crack routes, but you already knew that.
Safe?: It's had huge spontaneous rockfall twice in the last several years. But you already knew that too.
Bottom line: Make your own choice, it's your ass on the line. I usually make atleast one trip to the Apron every time I go to the valley, but I don't hang out there longer than necessary. Spring winter and fall might increase the chances of rockfall due to freeze-thaw cycles. I've always been there in the summer. It's hard to get the full valley experience without climbing some superclassic pitches like Mr. Natural.
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Fargo
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 6, 2002 - 12:48pm PT
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Thanks guys.
F.
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Fargo
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 6, 2002 - 12:55pm PT
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Chris M. Is the danger (as well as liability) aspect why there are no climbs from this area in Ultra Classic's?
F.
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Minerals
Novice climber
Biotite, K(Mg,Fe)3(AlSi3O10)(OH)2
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The Apron itself is composed of Half Dome Granodiorite and the rock above (Firefall Wall) is Tonalite of Glacier Point. This tonalite has a high biotite content (black, platy mica). When exposed to surface conditions, biotite weathers and absorbs water and expands. Because of this, the rock type is more likely to fracture, thus causing more rock falls (notice smooth surface of the Apron compared to the broken, blocky, and jointed surface of the Firefall Wall). Rock falls will continue to occur; equilibrium always wins.
So, do you feel lucky?
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prof
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 6, 2002 - 01:49pm PT
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I hate to say it, but you are probably asking for it if you climb on the Apron. Just pretend the place doesn't exist. Don't think that being there outside of a freeze/thaw cycle will help... the death in the rockfall on Mr. Natural was in late-June 1999. It was an 85 degree, sunny day (I was there).
Given that there have been two MAJOR rockfall events in the last 8 years, then if you go spend 6-8 hours climbing on the Apron, then you have about a 1 in 5000 chance of being up on the Apron during a major rockfall event (assuming one event every four years). And that doesn't include all the smaller releases that happen all the time.
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Copperbottom
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 6, 2002 - 02:08pm PT
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Wow you are so clever Copper Head!
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Fargo
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 6, 2002 - 02:11pm PT
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Look forward to April Chris!
Thanks Prof. appreciate your concern.
I'll take all into account.
Thanks again.
F.
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wondering
Novice climber
chossville
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 6, 2002 - 05:26pm PT
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Uh, what happened with the death on Mr Natural exactly?
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yinyang
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 6, 2002 - 07:15pm PT
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If you are a weekend cragger it is pretty much a death trap.
If you are an aspiring alpinist it makes for a pretty good training ground.
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noname
Novice climber
erewrwe
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 7, 2002 - 02:01am PT
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many years ago I saw it coming down, few years ago some else died, stay away from that area , there are to many other places to climb.
Do not let them clean up your body
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radical
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 7, 2002 - 08:11am PT
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I used to think not climbing there was such a knee jerk reaction. I thought rockfall could happen anytime, and who cares if there is one rockfall in an area, seemed to me that would decrease the percentage chance of it happening in that area again.
Then I climbed The Good Book and realized it takes a long time for rock to settle when a a large piece lets go. I personally had a large missle just miss my head, at the belay below the dihedral. And there are still lots of insecure rocks that are obvious up there.
I wonder what the rockfall zone looks like on the Apron. Lots of little and big rocks still waiting to fall?
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apronless
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 7, 2002 - 10:36am PT
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I don't know Chris - Consensus that it is safe?? I am dubious that this is a widely held opinion. May I suggest consulting a geologist.
About five years ago, I saw several large blocks drop just to the right of cold fusion.
Haven't been back since, though I am frequently tempted.
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Fargo
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 7, 2002 - 10:43am PT
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Well then, this might need a bit more thought.
What do you think Chris?
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ak
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 7, 2002 - 10:57am PT
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My partner and I climbed the Harry Daley route in early July. We were looking for the Grack, and had gotten a late start, but saw a minor rockfall just as we were approaching. It was large enough to send up small dust clouds, but pretty scary. We couldn't tell exactly where the rockfall was, it might have been even further to the left of the Grack, but we decided to stay away from that side- hence, the awesome Harry Daley route.
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Dingus
Advanced climber
Bend
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 7, 2002 - 12:49pm PT
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I sawa big one in mid September '99, we were on the S. Face WC. and it is really amazing. I still climb there though, because there are good cracks ofcourse. Certainly a direct hit from rock fall would end a good day for you but so would getting in a car crash on I-5, right?
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