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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Sep 16, 2008 - 06:34pm PT
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BBA,
I think what Steve meant was:
"Where did you use aid on the first ascent?"
I'm curious, too. My guess is that it was a big pendulum on pitch 4.
But I'd like to know the real answer!
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Roger Brown
climber
Oceano, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 16, 2008 - 09:32pm PT
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BBA,
I have a quick question also. Can you tell by Clint's last photo where your high point was in relation to ours? I know we were off route because our rope was anchored to one of the 2 bolt anchors of the "Glacier Point Rappel Route" (note sign in bush at anchor 75" below high point and my position) I put our signs on everything so there is no question who owns all the junk scattered around up there. We were also only a couple pitches from the Oasis and finished our descent after dark. All information is a big help in determining first ascent bolts from others. I sneezed today and it didn't hurt!! I will be back up there next Monday. Life is good,
Roger Brown
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Sep 16, 2008 - 11:32pm PT
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Howdy Roger, We meet last year in the meadows and I could tell you were hardcore Ol' school Navy ( My Father in law is also, 12 years Korean Conflict). Your hard efforts are greatly appreciated by those who have an idea of the amount of "Hard" Phucking work it is to replace bolts but will also be appreciated for generations of up and coming climbers, Thank You, Sir. You have done an incredible community service.
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msiddens
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Sep 17, 2008 - 01:48pm PT
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Ouch, cracked ribs are a PITA. I did a few of mine years back and everything hurt, including breathing. Luckily, time heals. As for the work, awesome job. So many fond memories of GPA and Coonyard remains on the to do list.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Sep 19, 2008 - 10:25pm PT
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Cool!
hey Roger Hope U Can fix this "Impossibly Diminutive slab".
Didn't think chouinard could get into a closed out.
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Dr. Rock
Ice climber
http://tinyurl.com/4oa5br
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Sep 19, 2008 - 10:59pm PT
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That last picture is one of the best angles I have ever seen.
Awesome.
That dude is buffed, is he an ex seal or something?
I hope he isn't on the juice.
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couchmaster
climber
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Sep 20, 2008 - 12:22am PT
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Rodger, can you share with us what happened? Thanks.
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Dr. Rock
Ice climber
http://tinyurl.com/4oa5br
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Sep 20, 2008 - 12:43am PT
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Nothing happened.
What's with all the ambulance chasers around here?
Sheesh, someone falls, and before he gets picked up by the meat wagon, we already have a complete analysis underway, WTF?
Hey, if I break something, please do not analyze why without prior written consent from the Slick Rick, thanks.
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Roger Brown
climber
Oceano, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 20, 2008 - 02:08pm PT
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Couchmaster,
There was a bit of discussion about that at the wedding party last night. It was pretty much concluded that it was just "pilot error". Being so used to using a 165'-200' static rope, I badly misjudged the amount of actual slack I would encounter when I stepped off the belay ledge to start the penji. I was using the new 600+ with at least 400' out. The rope also may have been hung up on something which caused a secondary drop right in the middle of the attempt to stay under control. At any rate I knew I was losing the battle and was prepairing for the tumble when I ran out of slack and slammed to a stop, back first. With enough slack it would have been a bit of a tumble/roll and I probably would have come out better. The impact was pretty violent ( I was moving really fast) and I figure I got off lucky. I am just an old Hippy that believes in karma, and I work at keeping mine on the good side:-) At any rate I am healing at a fast pace and will find out Monday if I can jug my ropes. I am betting I can. If not I will start back a week later after face-lift. Looking forward to seeing a lot of past face-lift faces and meeting some new ones. I will be back at my camp in Yellowpine monday morning. Today I get to put on a Tux and walk Amy down the isle. Life is good,
Roger Brown
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Sep 20, 2008 - 02:30pm PT
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congratulations Roger! best wishes for the soon-to-be-weds!
And it's good to hear that you survived your mishap with relatively minor injuries. I think the risks you and the other rebolters take plying your craft is a greatly overlooked aspect of this important service.
I'm looking forward to seeing you next week at the Facelift.
Have fun today!
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Dr. Rock
Ice climber
http://tinyurl.com/4oa5br
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Sep 20, 2008 - 03:55pm PT
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more gamma:
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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Sep 20, 2008 - 04:23pm PT
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Thanks for doing such a great job of replacing those bolts, which didn't exactly look bomber when I was up there in 92. Your photos really brought back a flood of memories Clint. What an amazing view that is from the Oasis.
Hope that your ribs are healing nicely Roger. I was hit on my motorcycle by a careless driver in Feb and suffered a similar inury, which I thought was fully healed, but aggravated on the Diamond in July. Almost ready for a return to El Cap soon.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Sep 21, 2008 - 03:30am PT
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Thanks, Wayne.
It brought back some memories for me, too. The only time I had done Coonyard before was in September 1977, back in the days of EBs, on my first trip to the Valley. I remember how screwed my follower was, on the crux traverse, facing a long swing if they blew. I also remember rapping down the Rohrer anchors, but since we were young kids winging it, we only had one rope. But we had heard about this "Apron Rappel" technique. I sent my partner down single line to the next anchor. He anchored one end of the rope. Then I rapped on the uneven rope. When the short end of the rope went through my device (OK, carabiner brake), I wrapped it around the remaining strand a few times. Then I just rode it down on the friction of one strand around the other! (Note: I recommend bringing 2 ropes instead....).
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Sep 21, 2008 - 11:39am PT
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Clint wrote: I wrapped it around the remaining strand a few times. Then I just rode it down on the friction of one strand around the other!
YIKES!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 21, 2008 - 11:45am PT
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Classic Apron rappel! The normal rules don't apply to that place and everything you know is wrong. Good spot for the Swiss arm rappel if things are getting a bit too furry.
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Roger Brown
climber
Oceano, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 21, 2008 - 11:54am PT
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Hell Couchmaster, I am old. Wedding was great. Last party, breakfast party, will be here this morning. After 3 days of partying I am starting to feel my age. Have to get back to replacing bolts to get some rest:-) Yea, I use a big Wally for all bolt replacement work, and will buy the new one when it becomes available. For its purpose, it is the best pack I own. Got the Face-Lift stoke going, can't wait for tomorrow. YP ETA 10:00,
Roger Brown
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spyork
Social climber
A prison of my own creation
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Thanks again for all your work Roger.
A friend and I climbed up to Point Beyond a couple weekends ago. I was very happy to be able to clip the nice shiny bolts/anchors.
I wanted to go to Lucifer's Ledge but I apparently ran out of courage at Point Beyond when I was looking up at the 5.9 slab pitches.
BTW - are all the protection bolts from the ledge at point beyond up the last two pitches to Lucifers Ledge all good? I couldnt quite tell from the ledge while looking up. I could only spy two of the bolts.
Steve
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Steve,
I haven't been back on Angel's Approach since Roger did the replacement work, but his method is to only replace the original bolts. Added bolts will usually just get left "as is", but on that particular route, we identified a series of added bolts with Cassin hangers which were targeted for removal. I believe there were other added 1/4" bolts which he may have left as is. I remember counting 11 bolts on the first pitch, and my annotated topo from the mid-1980s shows only 5. The added bolts were rather disgusting. I did not clip the added bolts.
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