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Juan Maderita
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Aug 10, 2007 - 12:59am PT
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The 11225vsr and 11225vsrh are both the "Annihilator" model.
IIRC, the 1.7Ah battery (Bosch #BAT019)was discontinued. The 3.0Ah replacement battery is part # BAT021.
That NiCad battery pack is expensive, and NiCads have their drawbacks. My $.02 is that the SLA battery pack is the way to go, and for less money.
The Hawker SLA batteries look top of the line. However, I've had great results from batteries costing half as much. (15+ years on my first set).
You might check out Gruber Power Services for batteries and particularly the inexpensive 12v, 1.0 amp, charger:
http://www.gruberpower.com/gruberpower/advertising/batteries/cutsheets/55-805000.asp
Also, search this site for other threads on details of building battery packs. Some info on RC.com too (there I'm climbbaja).
Feel free to e-mail if you need more info.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Aug 10, 2007 - 01:58am PT
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you don't need the grip thingy, but you can probably get one cheap off off another climber on the boards if ya needs since most folks don't use it. I like it but totally extraneous.
one thing about the battery (may hit you up later for more insight Nature and you too Werner) is that since I'm not running the battery down I only get 3 bars on recharging typically. i have a feeling this will cut the life of the battery down. I like the bar indicators on bosch batteries... gives a sense of how many holes you got left for the day. and if you are out on the sharp end and leading out, kinda nice to know you can get at least one more bolt in before it dies sort thing.
as for what you said Tmoses, yep mostly drill from lead, with the occasional rap bolted route. that thing really throws you off balance. I like to yard it up hand over hand or hand to teeth. Tried the pulley on the ass method and it's f*#king heavy and really pulls yar drawers down. make sure to have good hand holds when you do this. But it is very fast.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Aug 10, 2007 - 01:59am PT
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sik set up Juan. thx
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Aug 10, 2007 - 02:08am PT
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John,
The Hilti TE-6a is to drills what Theron and I think your A5 is to hammers now that we both actually own one and have been swinging them for a couple of months (in fact, I just used yours all week to set bolts on the bases of all our new porch columns and to anchor all the new railing posts to the driveway retaining wall).
Hilti also makes a slick belt adapter for their battery - I have one, but in the end I never use it. I got my drill and two batteries off ebay by watching them go by for awhile and pouncing on an off-hour ending time with esnipe ($425 + $21 shipping). Contrary to popular belief it's been three years now and both batteries are going completely strong and have never run out of gas unexpectedly.
So far it's only been used on anchor replacements and not for protection bolts.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Aug 10, 2007 - 04:08am PT
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John;..I have a Dewalt.....it's a champ......My wrist and elbow could take no more hand-drillin'.......I hung in there for a long time, but I too crossed over to " the dark side."....(You'll love it...and it give you more time to hang out and do the family thing.....by the way;..congrats on the parenthood;....it's to best, aint' it!......and you finally grew up......next time at Josh, let's have a diaper party! .) Todd
Out!
In!
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deuce4
Big Wall climber
the Southwest
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 10, 2007 - 09:51am PT
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yeah, baby!!! Can't wait to be ripping them in. Virgin cliffs beware.
Nic battery packs Juan--I'll be planning to sew something up similiar.
Yep, Todd, loving the dad life. Supercool. Gotta get some routes up to train the little guy...
cheers
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Aug 10, 2007 - 10:11am PT
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You might look for an ebay Bosch 3aH battery for the drill too. The have a nice battery power indicator built in so you can kinda tell how much juice they have.
The Bosch is a tad hard to get used to with the clutch that only engages when you push it into the rock. Nice drill though, and, nice balance for leading. If you do any overhead drilling, at full arm extension, try turning the drill upside down and working the trigger with your pinky finger grip. Works amazingly well.
The lighter battery (that 1.7aH and I think they made a 2.0 or 2.5 one too) is nice to have if you can find one. Quite a bit lighter for leading. But, no where near the number of holes than a 3.0aH (at least mine, although, its still taking a full charge based on the indicator lights).
I took my front handle off, not really too necessary and just adds weight and space.
If I had the extra cabbage, the new Hilti TE-6A with the new lithium battery would be sweet. Was hoping to upgrade to the new battery, but, looks like the lithium's won't fit the older drills. Bummer.
Cheers,
-Brian in SLC
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Cuckawalla
Trad climber
Grand Junction, CO
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Aug 10, 2007 - 10:41am PT
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These virgin cliffs arent in Pagosa Are they? If so is it down Piedra road of some new place you have scoped? Last I heard you lived in Pagosa. The rock is decent or absolutely horrid around there. By the way, you planning on hitting up the Four Corners FOlk Fest? Nickle Creek will be there!
Take care,
Jesse
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deuce4
Big Wall climber
the Southwest
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 10, 2007 - 10:47am PT
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Hi Jesse-
Yep, there's a lot of good rock down Piedra Canyon, but there's tons of poison ivy there. Still, there's a few lines that look good and their bases are clear of PI, so I'll be wanting to set some top anchors to check them out, and who knows, maybe even place some rap bolts for a future lead (part of me can't even believe I just wrote that).
There's also a bunch of good rock over the pass, on the South Fork side of Wolf Creek Pass. That's where I envision taking my boy climbing the first time around here. Gotta get some moderate routes established....
ps, and oh yes, we'll be at the four corners folk fest. As a town council member, the organizers give us free tickets! But we'd be there anyway.
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Aug 10, 2007 - 11:29am PT
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A buddy of mine ran 100' of heavy duty speaker wire through 1" tubular webbing. He built a variety of super-chargers (one with 3 Amp Hour batteries, another with 7 amp hour batteries). He built a case for them out of 4" or 6" white PVC pipe and rigged it up sorta like a poop tube. He leaves the thing on the ground when he's putting routes up on lead.
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Cuckawalla
Trad climber
Grand Junction, CO
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Aug 10, 2007 - 01:54pm PT
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MY pal and I did a First ascent on the cliff band above the one by the river. We called it Unglued, and its a all gear route with some baby angles for anchors. Unglued because we were told that everything down there has to be glue in's. Big meadows, on the other side of the pass, is pretty neat. You are also relatively close to Penitente. Growing up in Pagosa, once we exhausted Piedra, we would go there often. Maybe we shall see you at the festival.
Jesse.
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Ed Bannister
Mountain climber
Riverside, CA
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Aug 10, 2007 - 05:11pm PT
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Healy is right, the bit, and it's condition can make a huge difference, and Hilti has better bits by two or three more hole per battery, they just cut faster., and after a while, whatever that is, pay the money and get them sharpened.
Hilti was the superior drill, not sure if anyone has caught up...
there was the Ryobi GAS drill, but even the powerbolters don't want to be caught mentioning THAT!
Ed
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Aug 10, 2007 - 05:16pm PT
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The DeWalt is a POS. I had a 24V DeWalt cordless and it could not do the job. I trashed a ton of bits. That drill is long gone - burned it out. While my buddies way old BullDog (14 years old) is still running strong - especially now that it's been retrofit with a super-charger power pack.
Impact force in roto-hammer mode is key. The DeWalt has not enough while the Hilti has a ton. DeWalt does make a roto-hammer-drill that has high impact force but the retail price ticket last I checked was close to $600
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Aug 10, 2007 - 06:51pm PT
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Nature;...I'm sorry you have not had good luck with the Dewalt;...I have. I use it once or twice a week, have drilled a few thousand holes with it, ...even dropped it about 40'...and it lived.....we do all our routes on the lead, so we like the lighter weight......and we get maybe 12 holes to a battery...and we carry extra batteries.....I think the Dewalt is cheaper too.....I have used other drills too....I prefer the Dewalt......but others prefer the Helti and Bosch....(Anything over the hand drill.....I'm so over that crap......that will ruin your elbow and wrist after a decade or three of bang-banging.....)
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Hammer
Social climber
Custer, SD
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Aug 10, 2007 - 07:01pm PT
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Come on Deuce, one of those giant beer cans is going to fall from above and squash you.
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Slabmonger
climber
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Aug 11, 2007 - 01:45am PT
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Sounds like you've gotten plenty of drill and battery advise here, but I'll add one thing I've done for my battery system for the same drill. I wanted an external, gel-cell battery pack and was a little weary of going into the case of the drill so used the existing (dead) battery for my solution. I simply opened up the old rechargeable battery pack which wouldn't hold a charge and gutted it of its contents, leaving the wiring going to the batteries intact. After that, simply fish in a new two-strand power cord and wire up to the battery pack wires, then put the case back together (I used a female end of an extension cord coming out of the battery pack). This allows the drill to use factory batteries, and requires no modifications to the drill itself. If anyone's interested, I could put up more info.
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Loomis
climber
Praha 6, Ceska Republika
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Aug 11, 2007 - 03:21pm PT
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John, this is the real deal, still works great after 20 years.
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T Moses
Trad climber
Paso Robles
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Aug 11, 2007 - 06:24pm PT
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My rig:
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Aug 11, 2007 - 08:40pm PT
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Hi John,
I'm just back from western Colorado where I saw 3" fall on the divide tuesday. Hoa! Send some back this way.
Been a Bulldog man for more than 20 years.
Used one to drill 11 holes on the FA of Charlie Fowler Tower last May. (Charlie would've loved it.)
But here is the dichotomy; for an initial 8 bolt ladder (drilled angles actually) I used an auxiliary battery in my day pack composed of two of those 12 volt batteries you can buy cheap at Walmart (made for those kiddie cars). Then to cut (topheavy) weight I lowered the assembly and climbed on.
When I needed to finish the route off with three more bolts I then hauled the drill with the standard Bosch battery (lighter) which has adequate juice for smaller jobs.
But Deucey, it sounds to me like you are only entertaining a mild flirtation with the dark side. To truly be able to say to Rowen, "Luke, I am your FAAAther" you must use your light saber to drill pockets!
Yes. I know you reject the notion NOW.
But the power of the Bosch will creep into your soul. Now you are putting diapers on Rowen, but soon you will be putting diapers on yourself.
The very excuses you entertain of failing connective tissue will lead you down the path to hell.
Today its merely a sport route. Tomorrow perhaps an enhanced pin scar. But your eternal spirit is on the line here. Believe me I know (just don't ask for details).
Stand up!
Stand up I tell you!
Raise your hands up to the sky and say, "Devil drill I reject thee. I smash your corruption on the rocks (or give it away cheap), and vow to keep a pure soul and pay for my rock dust with my very bone and sinew. I shall smote with hammer and tuning fork any nonbeliever's route who violates the WORD, and render all climbs righteous."
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