Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 16, 2008 - 07:35am PT
|
A rare photo, maybe it's the only photo, of Steve Wunsch on jumars (1971).
|
|
PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
|
|
|
Jan 16, 2008 - 01:03pm PT
|
Chileo:
What a cool picture (and totally cool thread).
Where was that photo taken?
I remember few climbers who climbed with such grace, determination, and control as Steve.
|
|
Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 16, 2008 - 01:40pm PT
|
Where was that photo taken?
Colorado National Monument. In May 1971, Steve and I drove from Boulder out to the Valley, and did a few climbs along the way. On our drive, I was looking forward to aid-climbing my first Yosemite wall (the Prow), imagining that that would be a big deal. Steve was looking towards the future, imagining which big walls would go free.
I've got a few more shots from that trip I'll try to locate and scan soon.
|
|
PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
|
|
|
Jan 16, 2008 - 01:58pm PT
|
Thanks for the time and effort you put into this thread.
The feelings that the memories of those days invoke recharge my climbing "batteries" for the days ahead.
|
|
Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 16, 2008 - 04:01pm PT
|
Earlier that same day, Steve in a more characteristic free-climbing pose.
|
|
Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 16, 2008 - 07:44pm PT
|
For Tarbuster (and Bill Roos if he's out there) ... another sighting of I-beams in action, or at least on the rack (1971).
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
|
Jan 16, 2008 - 11:41pm PT
|
Nice to see you pulling out more archival treasures Chiloe!
I don't know where Roos is on the cyberspace train right now.
Here's those pesky anodized Titons; although the cross section is partially similar to the Colorado Nut I Beam, there are some differences in design and functional intent. I think the I Beams were meant to be placed primarily or only endwise, without the added camming function of the Forrest product. (That camming application seemed spooky to me).
|
|
Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2008 - 08:59am PT
|
The I-beams weren't for camming, but I actually placed them more often narrow-ways instead of wide-ways.
That camming concept with Titons looked scary to me. I never used them, although I was a great fan of two other early-70s Forest inventions -- the copperhead (originally meant to be used as a nut, not hammered for aid) and the two sizes of Foxheads that Bill built around a copperhead core. The Foxheads were Moac-shaped: a small aluminum one, which I used just about everywhere, and a larger blue plastic thing that looked sketchy but I still placed here and there. That blue plastic Foxhead was for awhile the only pro I needed to lead the first pitch of the Bastille Crack.
Nowadays I'd prolly take 6 cams.
|
|
Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2008 - 09:11am PT
|
On that same 1971 trip, Steve and I made about the 9th ascent of this puppy. Reading the summit register, I noticed that all the previous parties had been famous. We were harbingers of the hordes to come.
|
|
Geno
Trad climber
Reston, VA
|
|
|
Jan 20, 2008 - 12:52pm PT
|
Here are some scanned photos.
A photo Laura took of a guy doing Foops in 1973.
Gruenberg in his knickers:
Me in knickers.
BobbyD, Kevin Bein, and Elrod at Uberfall in early 80s. Todd Swain in the background.
Rob Robinson ripping it up at Steele Al in 1985
Mark Cole in the field above Steele in 1985.
BobbyD getting ready to climb at Rincon in 1986.
Steve Wunsch soloing on Breakneck Ridge in early 1990s.
|
|
Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2008 - 11:44am PT
|
Geno, just caught up with your Gunks post. Loved the photo of Steve Wunsch in the 90s, quite a change from the 70s but that's true for us all. Bob D as a stylin' youth too.
You got more to scan where these came from?
|
|
Cuckawalla
Trad climber
Grand Junction, CO
|
|
|
Jan 22, 2008 - 11:59am PT
|
Do you happen to remember the climbs or where in the CO. National monument they are.I cant seem to place those climbs anywhere.
thanks-Jesse
|
|
Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2008 - 12:20pm PT
|
Do you happen to remember the climbs or where in the CO. National monument they are.
Sure. The two photos of Steve in the Monument, at the top of this page, were both taken on an unsuccessful 1971 attempt to free Sentinel Spire. We rapped in from the rim, then jumared back out later in the day.
Drove on to Castle Valley that evening, where we climbed the Lizard (3rd photo this page). Over the next couple of days we made approximately the 9th ascent of Castleton, as well as another unsuccessful free attempt -- the original route on North Sixshooter. I've got a few slides from N Sixshooter that I might scan sometime too.
|
|
Geno
Trad climber
Reston, VA
|
|
|
Jan 23, 2008 - 08:15pm PT
|
Chiloe,
We have a storage box of old slides from 1975-1990. Mostly from the gunks and the South. We have to separate the wheat from the chaff....As you know, it's hard to drag out slides/photos and scan them.
We've been trying to get our friends fired up to scan their photos for next year's Gunks Gathering. I really apprecxiate your threads though. It's so great to see the old pics. Strange how the group, parking lot, car, summit photos are some of the best ones 20 years later.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
The West
|
|
|
Jan 23, 2008 - 08:19pm PT
|
What a treasure trove!
|
|
Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2008 - 08:45pm PT
|
It's so great to see the old pics. Strange how the group, parking lot, car, summit photos are some of the best ones 20 years later.
If I could write a note to my younger self, it might say "Take lots more pictures! Write down as many stories as you can!"
Although the Maroon Bells thread was kind of an exception, most of the pics I took of mountains, cliffs etc. look less interesting now. It's the people who have changed, and whose pictures say the most about how things were. How life is.
Yeah, scan your photos when you can. This is a great place to bring them to daylight, out of the dark shoeboxes and notebooks we've all got where they've been fading for decades, and prolly would have passed on unseen.
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Jan 23, 2008 - 08:46pm PT
|
Hey Roger Breedlove, are you reading this? have you scanned your slides yet??
|
|
Geno
Trad climber
Reston, VA
|
|
|
Jan 23, 2008 - 09:11pm PT
|
Chiloe, Here's a shot of Andy Embick on High Exposure. I met him on an October day in 1980 in the Gunks. He was visiting out East. We climbed a bunch of stuff. I sent him this shot later and he gave me some 8X10s of Cochise's Strong Hold. He was a great guy and it's very sad he's gone.
|
|
Geno
Trad climber
Reston, VA
|
|
|
Jan 23, 2008 - 09:28pm PT
|
Okay, I got to put up another pic from the South. Here's Shannon Stegg and Greg Allen on the road above Jamestown, Al in 1984. We just finished FA of Apes of Wrath in a unusual snow storm. We were pretty happy to be out in it.
|
|
Geno
Trad climber
Reston, VA
|
|
|
Jan 23, 2008 - 09:41pm PT
|
So far Bobby D hasn't noticed the pictures above. Here is another from the late 70s. Laura tells me he is sitting with Gary Garrett and Nadine at the Good Earth in Boulder.
Also an after climbing shot of me, Bobby D's beautiful wife: Laurel, BobD, Mark Robinson, Jeremy and Adam (in front) in Colo Springs from 1986. The years go by.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!