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Clayman
Trad climber
CA, now Flagstaff
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 8, 2007 - 02:41am PT
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Ok so how is this thing? Is it super hard? How far apart are the bolts really? hows the climbing? I've heard 11c feels stiff.
Id be stoaked on any beta. been thinking about this line for a long time. Are the bolts on it good are are they the ones Bachar put in back in the day?
any words Bachar?
is it really X or R or even super R?
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
Arid-zona
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Scotty Burke always told me it was 12a (he's done it probably more than anyone else) though I think the most 'dangerous' moves (where you'd hit the ground and not just take an 80 footer) are 5.11.
From what I've seen of Bachar's comments he'll likely get on here and call it 5.10.
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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The hardest move is 5.11a at the first bolt, first pitch (bring a small loop of 4mm and 5mm cord to tie off a knob about 15 -20 feet up on the first pitch - as well as some second knuckle size cams to protect the layback flake). Second pitch is 10d continuous. Third is 10c - old school slab cruxes with inbetween 10a runouts. 5.9 crack and easy face to the summit.
All bolts have been replaced by me and Dave Shultz - bomber 3/8" Taper Bolts of course!
Piece o' cake, jb
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Knob Central
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I'll belay and follow. I'm super solid on that stuff, just ask John.
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Clayman
Trad climber
CA, now Flagstaff
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2007 - 12:45pm PT
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Right on thanks guys! walk off or rap? Ive never climbed anyting on that dome.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Knob Central
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Walk off to the right. Spend some time at Lake of the Domes at the top on the way by.
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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The first bolt is now up and left of the anchors on the top of pitch one. Originally they were slightly up and right because I thought the climb would naturally follow the black streak (like most Tuolumne "streak" routes do). As it turned out the holds were all left of the black streak. This caused a big problem for the belayer if the leader fell on his way to the second bolt (which is way up and left) because the leader would fall and then pendulum "through" the belayer.
When I replaced the bolts with Dave, I decided it would be safer to have the bolt out left at the same height as the original. (Alan Nelson had tried to establish a new anchor station to the right of the original - which I removed. The anchors are in the original spot on the ledge - the logical spot).
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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now this route brings back some good and bad memories... ed barry and i went to do the 3rd ascent. i lead the first, he lead the second and starting down climbing right below the first real bolt on 2nd pitch, (45 above the belay). a knob broke and he fell, right for my head, i moved right and he hit my shoulder and went another 40 ft before i caught him. he got to the belay pasty white! "I'm not going back up there man" was all he could say.. we waited a little while for the adrenaline to subside and then i decided to give the second pitch a try because i did not want to come back and lead that first pitch again! ed snapped out of his funk and went and sent the pitch. I broke a hold 40 above a bolt on the 3rd but hung on and made it to the horizontial and the cam placement that i really was happy to get. Then there are two more pitches of funky scary climbing to the summit. Most people rap after the third and i say that's bull shit! you have to do the whole route to call it a send!
It is an amazing line, bolts are far away and the climbing is COMMITTING! LIKE CLIMBING USED TO BE!
so go for it and realize you are climbing more than just a route, you are climbing a vision of the past that required first ascentionist's to have guts to get the glory..!
enjoy and yes there are new bolts there so no more 1/4 bolts to get you puckered...
ks
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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yes it was quite a day...Schneider was at the base for moral support and saw the whipper! Ed really pulled out the send on the second go and it will always be one of my fondest memories of climbing thrills...
ks
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
Arid-zona
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Kurt-
Didn't you bust your foot on an attempt on the route?
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James
climber
A tent in the redwoods
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A little while ago Drew "The Iceman" Rollins, a Toulumne Search and Rescue hardman, went up to the Bachar Yerian. He'd trained for the route, running laps on Electric Africa, dancing up You Asked For It, getting his head together onsight soloing Solitary Confinement, and keeping his Miuras laced tight. On the second, or maybe third pitch, with the last bolt well below his feet, he fell and took the monster whip. He limped for a few days before he went back and fired the route. The Iceman said it's not that bad.
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
Arid-zona
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Nice! Tuolumne SAR site representin. Mike Waugh told me some horror stories about You Asked For It.
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handsome B
Gym climber
SL,UT
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Thanks for the story Kurt!
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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1986 - Epperson photo shoot (Climbing Calendar shot) - Schultz had successfully negotiated the dreaded crossover above the belay and had clipped the second bolt. His dad had come up to watch the action and everything was going well until 50 ft. above the bolt when he called down to me that he couldn't find the third bolt - and he was gettin pumped!! After copious scanning he finally yells down that he found it - 15 feet down and right. The black Leeper hanger was well camoflaged in the black waterstreak . Too gassed to downclimb and clip he continued to the last bolt incurring a ball-shrivelling 80 ft. runout! Had he fallen it would have been the Mother of All Whippers as he would have attained terminal velocity rocketing past the belay and possibly hitting me in the all-out swandive. His dad was oblivious - telling him later that it looked like fun.
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Clayman
Trad climber
CA, now Flagstaff
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Topic Author's Reply - May 9, 2007 - 03:02pm PT
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That is a terrifying story aldude. i couldn't imagine. man that sounds burly.
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
Arid-zona
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"His dad was oblivious - telling him later that it looked like fun. "
HAHAHAHAHA!!!! Great story Al!
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Greg has an amazing series of photos showing the drama of the day. He had fixed a 600 ft line and had these cool spring loaded stilts to capture his famed "birdseye view ". Dang - can't find my old calendar ......maybe someone could dig it up and scan& post?!?
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Dog
climber
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....this has always been a route I wanted to do. Cannot hardly imagine doing it now. Still have the poster hanging in the shop taunting me.
Good Job to you who have pulled this one off!
Will
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Anastasia
Trad climber
California
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Beware...
If this climb is "easy" like Bachar claims, more people would be on it.
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