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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 13, 2006 - 10:43am PT
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Hi Kevin,
Welcome to ST land. I think that your excellent post on the Salathe slabs, John Hansen's Bolts on El Cap thread [url="http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=251146&msg=252263#msg252263"]The Warbler[/url] and Mike's bolt removal is your first post.
Some of the best times I had climbing were with you and Geroge on Middle.
Best, Roger
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yo
climber
The Eye of the Snail
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Sep 13, 2006 - 10:50am PT
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Mr. Worral's long shot of Herr Alex Huber on the Salathe Headwall circa 1997(?) is one of the most breathtaking climbing photos I ever saw. Taken from over near Ribbon Falls or something, and I believe it took him all day (hike in, sunset photo, hike out all night) for one shot. Bravo!
Umm, Buzz, if you're gonna keep inviting people in here make sure some of them nail, okay? Otherwise it's a total double stannard.
(Thank you.)
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand, Man.....
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Sep 13, 2006 - 10:54am PT
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Kevin Worrall??? NO way... where is he? Welcome to the TacoDome.
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hardman
Trad climber
love the eastern sierras
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Sep 13, 2006 - 11:45am PT
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yo or anyone have a link to the pic?
blinny those are some mighty fine guitars!
welcome to supertaco Kevin
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Sep 13, 2006 - 12:53pm PT
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Hi Kevin
Good to see you on here.
Cheers
Pat Nay
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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Sep 13, 2006 - 06:14pm PT
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Kevin,
Nice to have to you around. Glad you could remember that day on the Salathe slabs so well. It was pretty cool free climbing to the terraces one afternoon without a care or a thought of the ramifications to come.
I’ll track you down.
Mike
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Sep 13, 2006 - 10:38pm PT
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swami belt. small backpacker's stuff sack as a chalk bag. huge loop of slack in the rope. crisp, new e.b.'s. spring updraft lifting breezes up the face.
when my wife and i finally sacked up to do quicksilver, i'd had this photo stuck in my head for seven years. one of the more classic valley images ever, in my not-so-very-humble opinion.
welcome, indeed. if we see so far, it is because we stand on the shoulders of giants.
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Blitzo
Social climber
Earth
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Sep 13, 2006 - 11:17pm PT
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Wow, Kevin Worrall! I haven't seen him in twenty years!
Welcome!
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Sep 14, 2006 - 12:23am PT
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Hey Kevin,
How do you like being a Dad? Heard you were up here recently from Sabina and Eddy. Sounds like you had fun on Hoffman. Sorry I missed you.
Ken Yager
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WBraun
climber
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Sep 14, 2006 - 12:27am PT
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On Quicksilver, the second pitch. WTF were you guys thinking back then. I could've died from that run out.
It didn't happen, and look where we ended up.
Here?
Bawhahahaha ..... oh man.
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WBraun
climber
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Sep 14, 2006 - 12:45am PT
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Kauk told me to lead that pitch because it's the "easy one".
Sh#t .........
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 14, 2006 - 11:56am PT
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Jeeze, Kath, with all this talk about guitars what will come next: politics, conspiracy theories, pets, climbing ethics...?
Buzz
And what's wrong with plywood, other than it sounds dead? I had to keep my concert guitar at my parents home the whole time I climbed. It didn't like the great outdoors.
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 14, 2006 - 12:34pm PT
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I had a beater that I played in Camp 4. But I totaled a car I owned, collected the insurance, and purchased a fine, spruce topped guitar made by Mario Martello in about 1967, from the guitar shop in Berkeley. I think Mr. Martello lived in the Bay Area at the time.
You can hear that guitar all the way to the last row with a nice open sound I like for modern classical, with its precise overtone structures. You had to play carefully though, any sound you made--intentional or otherwise--was projected to the back of the hall.
I still have the guitar. It suffered a non-threatening crack in the rosewood back somewhere along the way. However, the string length is very long--close to 670mm and it is a bear to play--the fingers on my left hand are still a 1/4 inch longer than on my right. I have considered getting a 650mm with a mellower more forgiving sound.
Hard to climb hard and maintain guitar fingers.
Buzz
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WBraun
climber
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Sep 15, 2006 - 12:27am PT
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Remember jamming in the old wooden Camp4 bathrooms, Kevin.
The acoustics were awesome .......
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WBraun
climber
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Sep 15, 2006 - 01:08am PT
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What electrical cord, do you remember any electrical cord going to the site? Nah!
Hahahahaha .............
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 15, 2006 - 01:44am PT
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Hey Kevin, while you and Mike are around, I've wondered about this for years. When I first led the crux pitch of Space Babble, the belay at the top was a 1/4" bolt backed up by a No. 2 stopper with MG on it. Was Mike involved in putting that route together? My recollection was that it was you and Ron.
Greetings,
Steve
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 15, 2006 - 02:37am PT
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Hey Kevin, I did the third ascent leading all the pitches without chalk. It's still my favorite Valley free climb. I have an Ansel Adams photo of that part of Middle hanging where I see it everyday. Thanks for putting up such a masterpiece and encouraging me to get out on that wild piece of rock.
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 15, 2006 - 01:39pm PT
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I have more pictures of you climbing, Kevin. I think that 1973 or so was the year that I scraped up enough cash to buy that little Rollie 35. I recorded Jim Pettigrew doing the entire first ascent of "Catchy" in which you can just make out a white shirt in various positions, moving up the rock. I was such a terrible photographer. (Still glad I have some of the those all shots, with our long hair, EBs, swamis, and nuts only racks.)
I have pictures of you leading "Ugly Duckling" on Swan Slab with my hand covering half the view to keep the sun off the lens. The sun would have been better. So would have a SLR camera.
That day that you and George were getting up the first pitch of "Ugly Duckling" I was walking by and just assumed that it was my turn next. I remember two things: the giant flapper I cut into my finger on the razor sharp, sloping hold just a few moves up, and the sense that it was your climb and you didn't want any help for anyone else, especially someone as 'old' as me--I was probably 24.
First time as a climber that I felt the passage of time and place.
Great times.
I will dig up more picture so you to show to your bride. You were the longest limbed, baby face in the Valley.
Best, Roger
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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Sep 15, 2006 - 02:12pm PT
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Steve that’s funny. I did do Space Babble with Ron after he and Kevin did it. Great first pitch huh!
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