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Buggs
Trad climber
Eagle River, Alaska
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This thread is driving me crazy, I obsess day and night, by the time i'm done reading posts there are more posts.
Hey Doug(Buchanen)! Glad to hear you are still "Raging against the Machine." I'll have to get up there to visit soon.
Chossyslab, Have you started from the beginning and read EVERY post yet? You must in order to get the full effect...
Survival, you and jobs have alot in common. HHHHAAAAA!!!
Sean, its all cool or maybe its not. Beer is good.
DR, you have good diction and write well. Maybe that might be your calling?
Loomis, that rappin Smiley made me LOL!
I look forward to meeting many of you at Facelift in Sep!!
Keep up the dialogue, there is an answer, some common ground. Bet we'll find it before 2000.
Unless Coz chops the thread...can he do that?
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Cracko
Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
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From "Downward Bound"
Batso: But even more exciting were the great developments in "ethics". Royal Robbins and his followers were really becoming entrenched in Yosmeite Valley and were clearly established as the "top climbers". Wonderful - except that they strove to make climbing into a great moral crusade that should be conducted according to some sort of code (which they establish). They worried most about "excessive" placing of bolts and use of fixed ropes on climbing routes.
Penthouse Pundit: Use of bolts, as you certainly must know, guarantees the outcome and completely eliminates the adventure.
Batso: Climbing is quite adventurous enough for me - bolts or no bolts.
Same sh#t......different decade !! This is good !!!
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Buggs,
You made me choke on my cookie.
The thought of you always makes me want to go work out and do some bold climbing...
Lucky for me it's dark here and I have better things to do, like worry about the fate of Half Dome.
Tropical Hot Dog Night!
Like two flamingos in a fruuuit fight,
everything's wrong at the same time it's riiight!
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Domingo
Trad climber
El Portal, CA
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Cracko: I'd keep in mind that Robbins' camp got the last word with Camp 4.
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Sean Jones
climber
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If I was a stay at home dad, my family would shrivel up and die.
Bills are flying at me like American warheads fly at Iraq or any other smaller country that doesn't do as we say or give us what we want.
However, today I was a stay at home dad. Hats off to all the ladys (and some men) doing the hardest job on Earth.
I'm pushing for the end of the 5th beer now and starting to go cross eyed looking at the screen.
Just unbuttoned the top 2 buttons on my pants to let my belly relax. Oh god, It's late spring already and I'm still fat. Better pull it all together before the next photo shoot.
I guess I can't eat any food tomarrow to try and balance it all out. Oh god, I really am getting sucked into the computer.
I'll try and hang in there until the end of the 6th beer.
Are we at 2,000 yet ?
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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good job Sean and Doug!
f*#k*n' A!
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Idaho
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At this point, who the Hell cares(or even remembers...) New Topic, please...
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BLD
climber
excramento,CA
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Taste Test:
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Jacko
Trad climber
Grass Valley Ca.
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Cracko,Harding started at the bottom and climbed to the top..with gear that no sane man would use today.. a little bit different than Rap Bolting....Jacko
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Idaho
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Even squirrels won't go for 'Dog Style' Beer, Eh, Wisconsin?
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Cracko and Jacko really seem to have a handle on this thing.... Festus?
Rumor hot off the press: a chopping crew from Nevada is en-route right now. Vroom Vroom?
This whole thing could be a T10, and perhaps the greatest troll yet on the Taco.
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Sean,
it may be obvious, but I think one big reason there are so many posts is that a number of people have, to varying degrees, issues with the sytle of the ascent of your route and don't subscribe to the slogan "shut up and climb." And contrary to a lot of flak these same people seem to be taking, strongly holding onto your beliefs isn't a bad thing, especially if you truly believe them.
Bruce
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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New topic?? OK...
Is anybody else's laundry piling up? I mean, it takes me a lot of time to wade through all this stuff...
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bob d'antonio
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Sean wrote: However, today I was a stay at home dad. Hats off to all the ladys (and some men) doing the hardest job on Earth.
My wife was a stay at home mom...climbed 5.13 everyday. I have the highest respect for her and the wonderful job she did raising three healthy and happy children.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Sh*t man, ALL my chores are weak since this thread started.
Interesting, serious, funny, relevant, irrelevant, poignant, poetic, nonsense...it's all in here man.
I'm more confused and enlightened at the same time!
Did I actually write poignant?
Some of you rock heads can't even spell that word, much less define it!!
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Seriously, I'm losing track. I can't tell which posts I've read and which are new.
Can somebody please summarize this thread for me?
TIA...
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couchmaster
climber
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I feel sick to my stomach that I've read every post of this thread so far:-)
BTW, Hank: that still must have been quite the story on Southern Belle. Didn't you have a cover artical in Climbing mag on some worlds hardest test piece like a year ago? I've climbed a couple of times with Alan Lester in the 80's, what a great guy - wish I could get in that kind of shape. Topnotch dude Alan. In fact there might be very few folks I'd rather have with me if I broke both my ankles and had to do a Doug Scott low crawl down a long valley.....if thats what really happened. Makes my nards shrivel anyway thinking of it. Bottom line though, if one of the top climbers in the US can get banged up that bad on a route like that, does it not suggest a few more bolts might be in order? It limits a route to maybe 4-10 parties in the world being able to do it and survive, and seems to give some grist to the other folks mill.
Regards to all on both sides of this endless yammer-a-thon:-)
Bill Coe
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Some routes are SUPPOSED to be limited to 4-10 parties in the world!
Regards to you too Bill.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Summary for the Kman:
SFHD rap bolted by a naked talus runner and a pro climber, who also does construction to feed his kids. Route is probably great, but since style is still important to many, FA guys are getting an earful. Other guys are loving the new way to do giant walls safely, and are coming to the defense of the FA guys. Many old crustys in the fray. Lots of bad spelling. Young guys poking old guys with sharpened stick clips.... old guys peeing on ball-less young guys..... Since opinions are like bungholes, even 5.4 leaders from the Gunks are lipping up along with the hardest of the hard from every era. No end in sight.
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