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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 3, 2008 - 11:55am PT
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In some places, stainless steel does not last too long.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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By the sea, by the sea, by the beautiful sea?
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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i dont see the problem? Whats the problem here?
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L
climber
If only I could remember....
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You know, Chil, that sort of looks like a piece of art. A beautifully corroded, deadly piece of art.
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Chaz
Trad climber
So. Cal.
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Just rig up an American Triangle Of Death with that one and the one next to it, and call it good.
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Grant Meisenholder
Trad climber
CA
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"You've gotta ask yourself, 'Do you feel lucky?' Well, punk!?"
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Early this week had to wonder if this would hold a fall. Probably many here have clipped it - Overhang Bypass on LCR.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 3, 2008 - 12:37pm PT
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By the sea, by the sea, by the beautiful sea?
Steve knows the issue.
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Yeah Bruce,
I first clipped that bolt 45 years ago. Then in the early 90s I replaced a ladder of exactly the same, right down to hangers. You may have heard of the spot: the East Buttress of Middle.
So I have a bit of relevant info for you: Can't vouch for the hanger, but the bolt itself is probably bomber.
When I dug into the wall behind what you clipped on the surface, I found 3/8" x 3" Star Dryvin lead shield anchors. Every one of them was a bitch to get out. Pulled hard with the pickel-fork and crowbar, and then had to scrape bits of lead out the hole with a dental tool before we could install new 5-piece.
Feel better?
Doug
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 3, 2008 - 01:40pm PT
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L's remark about my photo,
A beautifully corroded, deadly piece of art
applies to morphus' even more. What was that?
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 3, 2008 - 01:43pm PT
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DR:
When I dug into the wall behind what you clipped on the surface, I found 3/8" x 3" Star Dryvin lead
shield anchors.
I used to place only Star Dryvins on sandstone routes. I know lots of those have been replaced, but
haven't heard whether the old gear was worthless or still had traction.
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TradIsGood
Chalkless climber
the Gunks end of the country
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Stubai Klebehaken and epoxy worked at the one place I climbed in Gulf of Mexico.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Doug's right on the 3/8" Star-Drives, don't pull straight out and they are fairly good, although that one is really rusty (sooner or later they'll rust to the point where the bolt will fail). I've pulled those in the Valley, Tuolumne, Red Rocks, and the Pinnacles, and as long as you first pull the nail and just the nail (not the sleeve), they're pretty easy to get out. That hanger is another matter though, those are known to snap (cleaned up a few snapped ones off the Nose, they break at the angle change near the biner).
For those who are wondering what's going on with the bolt in the first post, this article explains why titanium is the only option for seaside bolts, especially in warm climates:
http://www.safeclimbing.org/education/deepbluesea.htm
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
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Titanium "glue in" bolts are way expensive ($15 last I checked), but they should last at least 30 years...
Here's one I placed on Hot Tuna at Mickey's Beach before chopping and patching the original:
Believe it or knott, that old bolt wasn't even stainless; four carbon-steel bolts were placed on that route:
Here's a close up of one of them:
What amazed me was how hard it was to break these 1/2" bolts with a 2 1/2 lb sledge.
When I finally got them to snap, you could see that the steel was still shiny other
than the 1/2 mm or so around the outer edge. I don't have the photos handy at the
moment as I am on the laptop - I just grabbed the above photos off my lame-ass website.
In the meantime, check out this cool carbon-steel anchor...
-and the titanium replacement:
I would also like to point out that when Dirty Kenny and me were doing a bunch of
rebolting at Mickey's, we also chopped and patched a bunch of old 3/8" stainless bolts.
http://www.safeclimbing.org/areas/california/mickeysbeach.htm
Although many of these were 15 years old, they still required a good effort to remove.
I came to the conclusion that Stress Corrosion Cracking (SSC) is knott occurring out
in these parts, as it is in the Limestone sea cliffs of Thailand, Vietnam, Cayman Brac, ect.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 3, 2008 - 02:37pm PT
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stich:
Titanium glue-ins for them sea cliffs. Only gear that'll be there tomorrow.
A few days ago I watched Lord Slime clean a pitch of not-very-old stainless bolts like the one
on the left. One bolt snapped off under hand pressure. About half of them shattered when
torqued lightly with a wrench. The remainder broke like dry twigs with a few taps from a
hammer.
Ushba Tortuga titanium glue-ins, like the one at right below, seem to be faring a lot better.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 3, 2008 - 05:41pm PT
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perswig
climber
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Chiloe, I'm with L. That nut pic ^ is beautiful. Were you tryin', or is that just a happenstance of amazing colors and juxta textures?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Seems like a good test case for some very fat studs and beefy stainless keyhole hangers to keep the exposed metal to a minimum. The Aussies used to employ those tactics on routes routinely way back in the day. Just have to have a big glass jar full of keyhole sets down at the local watering hole for the borrowing! Just a modest proposal. LOL
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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cool thread
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