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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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TMoses- if you are trying to fit the older 1/4" buttonheads in your product offering keep in mind that the thinest of modified SMC keyhole hangers were used by myself and others to set the clearence for a snug fit while in place. Material thicker than 3/32" may not slip into place. Just an observation.
Mighty nice shop you have, I'm envious.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Just for grins, second in from the lower left is a prized original Dolt keyhole, the first and best available for many years.
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Erik Sloan
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2008 - 01:50am PT
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Sorry about that second shot Theron. I just changed it.
Thanks for the pics Steve. Awesome.
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T Moses
Trad climber
Paso Robles
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Steve: Hangers are 0.090 thick. 3/32 converts to 0.09375. So the answer to your comment is yes they will fit your routes.
Erik: I was joking about the picture. Thanks for changing it anyway.
The new hangers look a lot like the old Dolt Hangers. Dolt had a winner in the simplicity of the design.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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We have a bunch of those lower left hangers up on Beacon only with less thickness between the inner and outer edges of the clip hole - scary stuff. Mostly put up on routes by Dean Caldwell and Kim Schmitz I believe.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Thanks for the response TMoses. That should do the trick on the clearences for old button heads. I also used the bevel headed version of the Rawl split shaft for studs. That Dolt hanger has seen some healthy falls over the years! Dolt is the probably the father of the keyhole design. Certainly the first commercially available one as of the early seventies.
Joe-Those aluminum poptop hangers were always an adventure to come accross. The thin lipped ones that you mentioned started stretching every which way from day one. I never heard about one breaking but sure saw lots of melted ones.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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The pop-tops (lower left) are Gerry hangers.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Ron- did Gerry import or make much other hardware that you can recall?
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Steve, I free climb above skyhooks and crack 'n ups and I've yet to be able to bring myself to clip one of those damn poptops. I don't mind fooling myself, but I can't quite buy into those rascals.
Ron, now that you mention it I do remember Gerry selling those - what other gear did they sell? I think I have one of their biners but can't recall what else...
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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I think that's about it, and weren't the biners just Bedayns with a Gerry batch stamp?
Gerry Cunningham of Boulder I believe.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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That corresponds with my recollection. Strange that those guys would choose to float the highest liability items with little other product line behind it. The Gerrytube was the pinnacle of that outfit's product line. LOL
I have never seen a Gerry biner. Show and tell?
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WBraun
climber
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Apr 11, 2009 - 12:03pm PT
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Bump for hardware and cool machinery.
Too much talk and paper talk and not enough real results in our world.
Here's to you who actually produce ......
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Apr 11, 2009 - 12:17pm PT
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I'm curious why you didn't make 'em like the SMC or Leeper 'folded' design which wouldn't put any outward prying moment on the rivet? I realize it would mean a slightly larger hanger but it seems safer. Also, if you're not leaving 'em why not use regular steel at 1/4 the cost?
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Apr 11, 2009 - 01:58pm PT
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How did such a great thread disappear into oblivion in just a few days? I missed it the first time - I'm guessing I was underground.
Those rivet hangers look SWEET! May I please put a couple of each on my Wish List, along with the revamped Russkies and one each cam hook?
As I've said repeatedly, Theron Moses makes GOOD STUFF.
[Her nickname is Batgirl, not bigwall Kate. I thought you guys knew this! Bigwall so-and-so's are a dime a dozen, but there is only ONE Batgirl.]
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Erik Sloan
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 11, 2009 - 03:00pm PT
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Yeeeeeeeah!
Wowzer time flies. Hard to believe that Theron cut out our first prototype hangers in the fall of '05. Thanks for staying with it bro.
Are these in the Yose Mt. shop yet?
Mike--I saw your notes about Gabe's fall on an ancient keyhole hanger thread while we were designing these hangers. Your thoughts led me to talk to some engineers about the design which then shifted our focus to a less bent, more scooped hanger. so Thanks.
The landscape/yoga picture is right near Theron's house in Paso Robles. Very fun spot to visit.
best
e
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T Moses
Trad climber
Paso Robles
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Apr 12, 2009 - 12:45am PT
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Machine shop would be the right term for most of what you see. We are really considered a high speed metal stamping shop. The machine shop portion is basically used for maintence on the big (55-110 ton) punch presses.
Hangers in the tumbler right now:
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Apr 12, 2009 - 06:14am PT
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Holy Moses is the Man.
You've seen the pictures, and you can see what he can do.
Because he has access to the great machinery, he can create the great little pieces.
And he's really pretty good, making those sort of things.
He's the New Chouinard: I kid you not.
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Erik Sloan
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2009 - 10:34am PT
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Just in case it's not clear about the two sizes.
The smaller one fits 1/4" button heads and 5/6" machine heads. So five or so of those are all you'll need for most wall climbs in Yosemite.
There are a few routes with 3/8" buttonhead rivets, like Tangerine Trip/Aquarian, where having a few of the bigger ones would be nice.
cheers
e
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Apr 12, 2009 - 11:28am PT
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You can't get a better endorsement of Theron than from McTopo's Other Great Machinist, who is Tom aka Herr Doktor Doktor Professor.
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