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Oli
Trad climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Ratings sometimes vary if you have a shorter or taller body, or your fingers are thinner or thicker. On Over the Hill everyone goes up that little dihedral at the start of the third pitch real easy-like, with their fingers in to the hilt, for an easy lieback move. I have to stem and do all sorts of things, because I can't get more than the tips of my fingers in there.
It probably is a full grade more difficult to follow than to lead that first section of Rosy Crucifixion. The leader goes out, with one initial scary step but then bomber pro, but the second must unclip that pro and looks at a huge swing if s/he falls. Koeberdanz is much harder to follow. The leader can clip in above and move right, with a wild but harmless swing if s/he falls. The second looks at a different kind of fall, must less pleasant. I can think of countless routes in Eldorado that are harder to follow than lead.
You guys are bringing back some great memories of those yellow/red/purple/green walls of joy and glory. Imagine having the whole canyon to yourself, back in "those" days. The owner of the resort and property, Mr. Fowler, was a good ol' guy, kind of crazy, but for that I liked him. He would scream up the canyon in his truck and chase you down for the twenty-five cent charge to get in through the gate. Some climbers would go to great extremes, hike even way up and around the top of the Bastille, to avoid that quarter...
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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tardaddy, i remember about a thousand years ago we were talking grades and you had a theory you called the "three point spread" -- if i recall correctly your belief was that grades were so imperfect and subjective that you had to approach a climb with the idea that it was likely the thing was gonna feel up to three letter grades harder or easier that whatever number they had punched into the guidebook...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Yah BVB and that 3 point spread should about cover any fussiness with grades. I always liked the old 9-10-11 plus/minus approach and think it sets the mind in a better place.
A guy once said: 5.9, 5.10, 5.11: it's all the same.
Now that's a bit over the top, but what he meant was, you gotta know how to climb, protect, and employ all the refined techniques to do any of that well and the moves are pretty much the same, plus or minus a good deal of oohmf...
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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great stuff everyone - Tar, thanks for the pics of Yerian.
Bob, those CG shots are priceless...
Was hoping someone would scan the one of him from R&I, wearing briefs with "death is a gift" written across the front - those were the days!
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Oli
Trad climber
Fruita, Colorado
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What has become of Dave Yerian? I ran into him quite often in Tuolumne in the early-mid 1980s, and he was full of energy and life force. He was suffering at that time mightily, as his dear mother had passed away, his best friend. One day at the little restaurant on the east side of Tioga Pass, I was having breakfast with Higgins, and Dave stormed in and joined us... He seemed like a madman. But one you could like.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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aparently he's a bay area guy now, I see him (at a distance, don't know him to talk with him) all the time.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Dave checks in with me about once a year Pat, usually after he changes girls & gets a new phone number!
Your right, crazy guy with a heart of gold. (Like some of the rest of us).
He has been pumping iron and is in great shape & good spirits.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Oli,
Has anyone ever told you that you reminded them of a all grown up Everett Ruess?
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Oli
Trad climber
Fruita, Colorado
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I don't know who that is. Is that a good thing? Or a bad thing? I couldn't guess.
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Oli
Trad climber
Fruita, Colorado
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And anyway some say I still need to grow up.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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It's a good thing. You should get a copy of "A Vagabond for Beauty".
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Jul 21, 2007 - 01:20am PT
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Sharon Sadlier on Yellow Spur. Eldo Prancer.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Jul 21, 2007 - 01:32am PT
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RE:
"What has become of Dave Yerian?"
last time I saw him was in Santa Monica with his girlfriend - it was back when I was working at Gregory probably 1992/3 - I also wonder how he's doing etc.?
Yerian was my first in Yosemite in '77.
Anyone have an update on Dave?
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Jul 21, 2007 - 01:48am PT
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Rosy...You're so alright......
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 21, 2007 - 10:59am PT
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Hey Ray,
I may have mentioned upthread, perhaps elswhere in the forum, Yerian is doing great. We spoke a month or so back. He has Arnold's weight training book on his nightstand, he's pumping iron and super fit.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 21, 2007 - 11:58am PT
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Prancer?
I don't think so...
And check out Kor making big lanky moves up on the Yellow Wall of The Diamond:
...the route really climbs that way too; long reaches to good locks & edges.
(both photos from CLIMB!)
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 21, 2007 - 01:17pm PT
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More from CLIMB!
Roger Briggs (...I think)
On NW Corner of The Bastille.
Check out the articulate poise in his hand gestures.
These are an artist's hands at work:
And again on Vertigo,
One of my all time favorite climbing photos,
It was reproduced in a more cropped version in an old ASCENT,
So much air & light:
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Jul 21, 2007 - 09:59pm PT
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Todd, props to you for starting/reviving all these climbing-photo threads, and adding some fine new material. I'll kick in a few over the next coupla days.
And again on Vertigo,
One of my all time favorite climbing photos,
Tar, you might get a kick out of this unpublished Chelton photo, an outtake from that same Vertigo series:
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Jul 23, 2007 - 12:27am PT
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Mike Weis on the classic Mellow Yellow.
-MellowYellowPhotoByJello
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Jul 23, 2007 - 12:29am PT
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guys thanks for the Dave Yerian update - very good to hear.
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