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Lobster
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 11, 2007 - 11:31am PT
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Any thoughts? Someone mentioned that 40 metres is needed for the King Swing.
If Jardines variation was taken and no King Swing, what would the minimum length of lower out line be then, i.e. for the other pitches requiring it?
I appreciate that I could tie in short on another line, but want to use a stand alone lower out line.
Thanks
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jul 11, 2007 - 12:36pm PT
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Sounds a 'boot' right
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jul 11, 2007 - 12:41pm PT
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heh
I'm not laughing. I'm not.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jul 11, 2007 - 03:08pm PT
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I've never heard of anyone taking a separate lowerout line up the Nose, but I suppose it has probably been done.
My first trip up, I used just the lead line to set up a lower/rappel and ran out of rope in the middle (was able to finish by taking a moderate swing).
Since then the method I like to follow the King Swing is:
 tie in haulbag short on haul line, lower out bag when leader hauls it, but follower retains end of haul line.
when leader is finished hauling, untie bag from haul line and fix top end at anchor.
follower threads lower end of haul line through chain at anchor atop Boot Flake. Pull all of slack through and set up rappel on haul line.
put jumars out left on lead line, as tight as possible. Then rappel on haul line, which lowers you out left onto lead line.
once you are fully out left on lead line, with no more weight on haul line rappel, undo your rappel, and leader pulls the haul line back through the chain atop Boot Flake. (Obviously, be careful that haul line is smooth with no knots or kinks, so it won't get hung up in the chain)
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atchafalaya
climber
California
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Jul 11, 2007 - 03:28pm PT
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Thanks Clint, I had read about and tried your method last time I did the nose, and it is fast and worked great. I think we brought a seperate lower out line the first time I did the nose, and your way is much easier. Shaves pounds from the descent as well.
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Maysho
climber
Truckee, CA
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Jul 11, 2007 - 03:29pm PT
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Just did the route with no lower out line. The way I do the King Swing is to have my partner tie the lead line off back and tight at the top of the Boot, then send the bag straight across tyrolean style, only about a 40'traverse. Of course this only works if you have back cleaned everything after the swing (be careful if you do this!). For me the combo of no rope drag while leading and a quick slide over for the bag makes this work well and fast. The only pitch I wanted a lower off line was the next one, since I tried to lead the new face pitch variation and go all the way across the traverse. After the bag got terribly stuck, I ended up hauling from the middle of the traverse ledge, then tyroleaned the bag across the rest of the way. Most pitches we tied the bag off short and lowered off with the rope leftovers.
Peter
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elcap-pics
climber
Crestline CA
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Jul 11, 2007 - 05:23pm PT
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Clints way is the way I recommend too... works great
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Jul 11, 2007 - 07:44pm PT
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We did a Cummins with the Maysho tyrolean (for the pig), whole thing was done, lead to follow, in about 20 minutes.
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Maysho
climber
Truckee, CA
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Jul 11, 2007 - 07:58pm PT
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photo by Tom Evans
It is not what you climb, but how you look. It is all in the form. Do not forget to point your toes, drop your shoulders, relax the leading arm.
Peter
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| Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
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