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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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good point, Nef, I won't get over there for a few days in any case.
of course I could assign this task to my brother who works above the market place in emeryville and commutes from the contra costa burbs.
it can be scary to be around bob in those situations ... one time on Trench Warfare ...
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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trench, eh? i figured that would be a fun handcrack for him.
should be in your shops any day now, already on the shelf out here, as usual, 2 days before i got my subscription.
one more issue on this subscription, then i think i'm calling it quits. if i can get it sooner in the shop, i'll save the price difference by not buying the one dog a year(font anyone?)
i'll miss out on the beanie, but i think i'll live.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Definate call before you go out of your way b/c I didn't notice a new issue when I was in Borders yesterday. Sometimes they take a long time receiving and shelving stuff. I'm going to Marmot later though and will have a look-see for you. It does look like one to buy. I enjoyed Peter Croft's article about first learning to climb in Squamish so much that I'd be interested to read about what he's learned from climbing in the High Sierra.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Peter is really a genuinely nice guy too! Always pleasant and friendly. Very easy to talk to. Or, at least the couple of times I've been around him.
At the Red Rock Rendezvous, I missed the bus headed out to the area where our clinic was. We thought I was going to have to drive out in my truck, or ride with the students. Then I heard someone say, "I'm headed to Willow Springs, I can take one to the first pullout," which is where my clinic was. I look over and standing across from the driver of our car, is Peter Croft, leaning on the roof, over the passenger seat. He helped me load my gear and we were off. We talked about all sorts of things on the short trip out. Positive Vibrations, for one. Real estate, mostly though.
Anyway, that's how a day that started bad turned around quick like, and became a great day! Thanks, Peter!
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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J-bro...I got one at Marmot...20% off too b/c of their sale.
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mbb
climber
the slick
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Dog Eat Dog. No second ascent yet. Not only is the thing really hard, it is often wet and in the sun a lot, hence bad conditions. Garth Miller came through in the 90's and thought it was as hard as Super Tweak. I think consensus from those who have tried it is bouldery 14a.
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golsen
Social climber
kennewick, wa
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get after it Mike...Surely in SLC these days there is someone who can get er done.
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stevep
Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
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I believe Chris Sharma also put in some time on Dog Eat Dog and didn't get it either. As Mike said, the conditions are not often conducive to something that hard with a bunch of slopers at odd angles on a roof.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 5, 2007 - 06:42pm PT
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I think Sunrise Mountain Sports may also sell Alpinist... call , if they do I can pick up a copy and get it to you on Thrash THursday
and you can be famous for any of a number of things.... but to be famous for Scarpelli's first time in the Valley, you've gotta tell a story!
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Fluoride
Trad climber
Hollywood, CA
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"Becomes US citizen in order to vote against George W. Bush."
Nice!!! I also liked the line entry about him rescuing puppies. Putting up sick FA's AND rescuing hypothermic pups. Classic.
Wasn't Johnny Woodward on the FA along with Kevin Powell nd Daryl Hensel on Snap on Demand in JT? I seem to remember Kevin mentioning some stories about them while a party of us were out climbing it in May. Proud route, now 12a thanks to a hold break. Hasn't seen a second ascent on lead to KP's knowlege since it went up in I think was the early 80's. We did it via TR.
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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My only bitch is that I wish the mag wasn't printed in China, but the content is pretty damned good, and it's the one climbing magazine I subscribe to. Sort of like Ascent Lite, but much more frequent. The writing in the two Pete's different articles was fun, it's a great trick to write a first person narrative that's really about other people.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Thanks Melissa & Ed, I won't make thursday thrash due to school stuff. I'll make it out to Marmot, though.
Well written article all in all. Even if Pete 'don't know Squat' (second ascent august '87, maybe a dozen ascents by '98) haha. I'm glad to see Bob get some recognition, finally. One of the most passionate and austere climbers, ever. You wouldn't believe some of the sh#t he's done.
Ed, Most of the good Bob stories I would not be comfortable telling in public.
In an article in Climbing Luebben said my greatest contribution to OW was getting Bob into it. I can't argue, glad I was at the right place at the appropriate time..
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