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Trad
Trad climber
Northern California
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 2, 2007 - 11:41pm PT
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Having been totally shut down on the Sacherer Cracker offwidth (twice, now) it's clear I need more practice. Well, Steve and I were headed up to Sugarloaf on the day before April Fool's day and he's told me stories of relaxing evenings at Zander's Steck-Salathe' machine, so I suspected it wouldn't be hard to talk him into toproping Fat Merchant's Crack (.10a X). I was right.
To get to the Fat Merchant's anchors you have to climb something else first and we chose Bolee Gold (another option is Harding's Chimney). Here's Steve on the first pitch of the "approach":
Here he is on the 3rd pitch of Bolee Gold. (Note: after the 2nd bolt go up and to the right, even though it looks like you should go left.)
From the top of the south summit we rapped down to the big chockstone at the top of Fat Merchant's Crack, cleaned up the anchor a bit, rapped off, and got ready for some fun!
First it was my turn. This was my second go at Fat Merchant's this year and I probably could've cruised it but I didn't want to show off, so I effected a leisurely pace and took time to inspect the rusty piton fixed in a downward-pointing flake 30 or 40 feet up and deep inside the chimney. (This will be your first pro when you decide to lead it.) Eventually I made it to the crux and slowed down even more, making phony grunting noises and faking a lot of awkward struggling. Ha ha. I'll bet Steve thought I was actually having trouble!
Unfortunately, I "forgot" to leave my camera within Steve's reach and thus no photographs exist to demonstrate my fine style in triumphing over the crux.
Anyway, (what felt like) several hours later it was Steve's turn. Here's Steve moving up at a good pace, a couple minutes after starting the chimney.
Here he is ~10 minutes later after making it to the cruxy part, where the chimney narrows down and tries to spit you out:
And here he is another ~10 minutes later, at about the same spot.
Some time later...
And later that day...
At some point I had the bright idea to capture Steve's struggling, grunting, and cursing on video for posterity. You can see that at the link below (I rotated the frame before posting but Photobucket switched it back. If someone knows how to get around that please let me know.) Unfortunately the sound is poor because of the wind but if you listen really close you can hear a good grunt about 2/3 of the way through.
http://s159.photobucket.com/albums/t123/Trad_Muenter/FatMerchantCrack/?action=view¤t=SteveNotMoving.flv
Also unfortunately, the camera batteries died after 17 seconds so I don't have any more pictures. I told Steve I was going to post this, though, so maybe he'll have something to add.
Well anyway, all in all it was a good day and I think I actually learned something about chicken wings.
 Tom
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spyork
Social climber
Land of Green Stretchy People
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Yeah, hmmm, that didnt go so well. Back to the drawing board.
You probably could have tied off to the tree and hiked out for a drink at the local tavern and came back and I would have still been there.
I finally went upwards using the well used technique of struggling. Hey, my gear was up there!
Steve
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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It's all fun 'till someone pokes an eye out with a bigbro and starts crying.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Russ and Ed are drooling....
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder
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Hey Trad,
what a cool post.
the edge of that crack is tempting, looks like something to grab
but,
I might face the other way.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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oh the humanity!
looks like there was a lotta fun to be had this weekend... many people across the state were looking for really big cracks to crawl around in (yuk, not a good image).
Steve welcome to the kicked-butt club!
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frisbee
climber
{this page left blank intentionally}
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Excellent! I am no stranger to the not-moving experience.
Jake
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Funny. Cruel, but funny. Could have been the subject of an Andy Warhol movie.
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Crimpergirl
Social climber
St. Looney
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An excellent TR. You make this climb look so tempting!
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nutjob
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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How many times have I slept within half a mile of that spot and never known such a luscious opportunity for struggling was so close?
Might not make it to Lover's Leap next time I'm on Hwy 50.
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spyork
Social climber
Land of Green Stretchy People
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The good news is that I can now cruise a 5.7 chimney (thats the rating on the lower section). The 10a was where I got stuck.
The reason we were left side in was on the advice of a gentleman who has led it before. I flipped around right side in, it didnt help much. I liebacked and stemmed to get to the directionals.
I can't comprehend leading this. The single pin for pro would not keep you from decking as you oozed out from the transition from the squeeze to offwidth.
Steve
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mack
Trad climber
vermont
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Nice pics..at least it looks like a clean crack and not all grungy like they are around here.
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Tom,
Thanks for the photos. I wish there were some of your immaculate ascent!
Steve, it looks gnarly in there! I was in Yos with Ed, Gary, ScuffyB, and Bob. I got hammered by both Secret Storm and Doggie Do. I got my knee stuck, again. Who said having fun is easy? The other guys did better. My camera died early so I'm hoping Ed got some good shots and can give us the full report.
Climb On!
Zander
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L
climber
The Rebel L Gang
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Trad--Hysterical! Great photos, too!
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Hi Steve,
I have not done this particular bit of insanity, but comprehending getting up them does not really rest on the quality of the pro. It almost always sucks.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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hahaha! good one guys!
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Trad
Trad climber
Northern California
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 3, 2007 - 09:27pm PT
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I am no stranger to the not-moving experience.
frisbee was my climbing partner on the first Fat Merchant's adventure, earlier this year. He gets extra points for doing it with a sprained ankle!
Hey Zander, have you gotten on TM's Deviation yet? I'm still eagerly waiting to hear how it compares to Steck-Salathe' (besides the fact that it's about 14 pitches shorter, and only has a 20 minute approach).
Tom
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Hi Tom,
I havn't got to TMs yet. I'm kinda roped into this OW thing. I will definately post a trip report when I do! Thanks again for this TR.
See ya,
Zander
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john bald
climber
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I remember no pro on this exciting lead back in the late 70's.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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yup, that's what makes it a good solo.
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