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Tahoe climber
climber
Texas to Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 15, 2006 - 08:31pm PT
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Thanks for all the beta, guys!
Decision is still not *quite* made as to Tahoe or SD, but now I'm armed with some more info, for sure, so thanks!
And BVB - that was one of the coolest, most inspirational posts I've seen on the taco yet! Double-thanks!
-Aaron
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Mr_T
Trad climber
Somewhere, CA
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Oct 16, 2006 - 10:00pm PT
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How long are the sport routes at Lake Hodges?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Oct 16, 2006 - 10:30pm PT
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about 35 feet. boulder problems these days.
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hossjulia
Trad climber
Eastside
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Oct 16, 2006 - 10:35pm PT
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I spent a chunk of my childhood living on Rumson drive in Santee. Used to play around on some of those boulders as a kid. Went back after I had done some roped climbing in Colorado, and realized I was bouldering 5.10 as a 12 year old, and didn't even know it!
Also got stranded on top of something there and "rescued" by some *real* climbers. (cir: 1972-4)
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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ok, got a question for any present or past locals of the area. i'm flying out to the area for a wedding this weekend, and i've managed to secure most of a day to go explore woodson.
i'm wondering what type of gear i should bring. if possible i'd like to get by w/ shoes and a mini pad. i'd prefer to skip the rope, harness', gear, etc.
i'm specifically wondering how hard it is to get down from robbins, jaws, and crucible w/ out a rope.
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Hey Trashman,
You can pretty much walk down the east side of the boulder Jaws is on, but the easiest way off of Robbins is downclimbing the same way. Really depends on your ability as to whether or not you should do it. Can't remember how to get off of Crucible. I think it's a walk off on the back side. Anyone? Anyone? Buehler?
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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You'd have to downclimb Robbins. You can jump off of Jaws to the adjoining rock that's to your back, but it's kind of scary. The top of Test Tube and Crucible can be easily walked off. You can walk off Longs Cracks, the Bat Flake, and most of the other classics. I climbed there for years with just shoes and chalkbag.
-edit. Mooser's right about Jaws...I remember doing that jump for some cheap thrills.
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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I recommend a rope for Woodson. Of course, I'm a new-age gym bred wanker who's not nearly as hard as the old-school crowd. That said, I'm under the impression that a lot of people boulder stuff out there AFTER they have it wired. A lot of the best problems out there are over 20' tall, and they don't necessarily get easier as you go up. If you can, bring a half rope, a set of nuts, one set of cams to 3" and some stuff for extension for anchors and you can TR almost anything out there. One climb you just shouldn't pass up that is really a pure solo is Big Grunt. It's a 10- sqeeze. If you can get in, you've sent the problem. Check out the downclimb on the other side before going up it though. You have to down-mantle onto a stack of rocks. Pretty unique experience all in all.
Josh
Edit: Just scrolled up to BVB's post on Woodson. It's classic, and so true. I saw a thread once that had pretty good agreement Woodson had some of the hardest grades in the nation. I train there and do crush other areas, like BVB said. Woodson rules!
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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thanks for all the info, one last problem i forgot on the initial list is "hear my train" any good walk off there?
i assume it will be obvious if i find these problems, but want to know if i should be climbing w/ a "just get to the top" mindset, of more of a "make sure you can reverse this" one.
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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My recollection is that "Hear My Train a-Comin'" has a walk-off on the back (south) side. Josh is right, though: make sure you check out the way off before committing to some of these bad boys. Have fun! Living in Seattle, I'm missing Woodson big time this winter!
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salad
climber
San Diego
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trash, just sent you an email.. you are welcome to use my ropes/pads/guide book etc if you want to swing by my house in escondido.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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After reading the more recent posts, I'd have to admit that I was not really thinking. Most of the classics that you are asking about really are high enough that you would most certainly want a rope (before you have them wired, which of course, you don't).
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Yeah, I'm with eeyonkee. Some of the really classic "must-do" problems get harder the higher you get. Even if the walk-off is cake, falling from the high point can be a real ankle-breaker on many of the great ones. I also think Josh's gear and rope recommendations make sense at Woodson.
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crotch
climber
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Train = walkoff
Robbins = downclimb
Jaws = walkoff to the right of Baby Robbins
Big Grunt = can down climb and then chimney sideways out the back side if you don't like the crazy downclimb onto the stacked rocks
Crucible = high crux, walkoff
If you bring a short rope, a few slings, 0.5 - #3 camalot, and a mini-traxion, you'd be set on most of the stuff. I've got an 80' rope you're welcome to borrow, though I'm probably heading out of town Friday eve or Sat. morn.
You might be able to scare up a partner over on http://www.climbsd.com and then you could leave the gear at home and just bring a harness.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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I'm going down to Poway for XMas this year and will get out to Woodson at least once (first time in several years). If anyone (old pals or otherwise) is interested in getting together, I would love to hear from you.
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Have fun, Greg.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Which is crucible again?
Also, anyone have a pick of Lizard King out at Menifee area?
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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The crucible is on a high boulder at the top of the mountain - down just a bit from the big telecomm dishes. It's on the same boulder at Test Tube. Do a search for it in MountainProject.com.
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