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rockermike
Mountain climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 8, 2006 - 12:43pm PT
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I am heading to the desert soon. Would love to do the totem pole. Bjornstad says its "5.11- (or C2)". Well if you do the C2 how hard is the rest? ie. what is the minimum free climbing grade to get up the thing? Anyone have a topo. :-)
Is this a trade route yet or still a dangerous obscurity.
muchas gracias
Michael
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Its probably only 5.9+, but the topo they have at the visitor center says .10b.
Make sure you bring triples in the 1"- 3" cams. And guns.
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deuce4
Big Wall climber
the Southwest
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There is definitely a couple fantastic 5.11 sections on the route. Definitely get out of the aiders if you can, BUT, like all good rez routes, the Totem Pole has gotten tougher and tougher to poach, as there are a lot more tours through the area. I wouldn't try it myself these days, though I got to climb it twice without much trouble back in the 80's.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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PRESS RELEASE FOR MORE INFORMATION
March 7, 2006 Martin L. Begaye, 928/871-6647
NO ROCK CLIMBING AT MONUMENT VALLEY
Recent stories have disseminated information that Monument Valley will soon be opened to rock climbing. The provider of this information states that they are working with the Navajo Nation to negotiate an agreement that will allow them to start rock climbing expeditions in conjunction with a local Navajo Tour Operator.
As of this date, the Navajo Parks and Recreation Department, the resource manager of Monument Valley Tribal Park, is not negotiating with any company with the intent of authorizing rock climbing in Monument Valley. There had been a similar proposal about two years ago from The Access Fund, a national rock climbing organization, but this proposal was not favorably received by the local residents. Ray Russell, Department Manager, stated that “this proposal will likely meet the same fate and we would not be open to any activity that would desecrate the sacred significance of the rock formations under our charge.” The company promoting this proposal was informed of this earlier attempt and they were advised that getting the residents’ support was a first step but the final decision lies with the Navajo Parks and Recreation Department.
It is possible that the company may be working with the tour operator to promote this venture but the Parks and Recreation Department has not been formally approached with a written proposal. It is unlikely that authorization will be given in light of the unfavorable publicity already generated by the premature announcement.
http://www.navajonationparks.org
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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You guys are 30 years too late. And even in the 70s you had to climb the Pole on the sly.
JL
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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What Jeremy said;
also, take one of those Navaho climbers along.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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I don't believe the Access Fund has abandoned all hope of climbing in Monument Valley, but folks poaching Totem - especially since this issue is still current with the Tribal leadership and Parks Director - will do nothing to advance climbers' interests either with the Navajos or with other tribal and federal land managers who are now on the Internet. But if and when we can climb in these areas again, then climbing with the Navajos and helping some of their young climbers get AMGA-certified should be a BIG priority for the climbing community as Jaybro suggests...
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lamadera
Trad climber
New Mexico
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"I do wonder what would happen if you got caught these days?"
If you get caught they will arrest you, take all your gear, and fine you. If you don't get caught expect a curse and some bad luck (seriously). I'm generally not superstitious, but don't mess with the Navajo.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Bow down to The Pole. There are so many other cool things to climb in the desert S W....the Pole is dicey at best. Climbing in the Tribal Loop and in Canyon de Chelly is dicey.....there is rock all over the place outside of these two areas.....just be cool, talk to any locals if you are driving or parking near their house or hogan, and have a great time. Climbing, hanging out, traveling, and adventures on the Res are awesome, and the Navajo people are 99.9% of the time cool with it. Unless you just HAVE to climb the Pole, you might want to pick something else out.......If ya GOT to do it, be stealth, don't get caught, bring some REALLY big pro for the wide section, and fix pitch 3 , or you won't get back to the stance on the way down......Bow down before the Pole.
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deuce4
Big Wall climber
the Southwest
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yeah Todd, when LB and I climbed the FA of one of the Yei Bei Chei's, a tour came through--a bunch of people on horses. We were near level with them (there's a big ditch between the horse path and the base of the route), and if any one of them had just looked over for a moment, they would have seen us, we were not more that 100 feet away. Luckily, for us, the scenery definitely draws the eye to the Pole (bow down!).
The head tour dude even doubled back, as if he sensed something, but he never looked over towards us. We were in plain sight, plastered on the cliff below a notch, with no where to hide.
The main trouble with the Totem Pole these days is that the Navajos have taken to touring the area behind the Totem Pole around the Yei Bei Chei's. Any body on the Bandito route would immediately be busted if one of those tours came though.
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WBraun
climber
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I did it twice too. Except the first time I didn't even climb it. Me and Kauk landed on top in a helicopter and just stepped out onto the summit. Hehehe
Second time Merry, Kauk, and me climbed it. Cool climb! WOW!
John did you see all those lightning scars on that thing?
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s. o.
Trad climber
academia
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The rumors are that if you are caught poaching climbs, canyons, or even hiking or camping on the Navajo Res they will take all of your stuff including gear and vehicles, fine you and send you on your way. I don't know from experience, but it doesn't sound worth it to me.
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feelio Babar
Trad climber
Sneaking up behind you...
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If you don't get all your tires slashed, windows smashed, and cursed (no fuggin joke)......the skin walkers will getchya ass as soon as the sun goes down. Damn near impossible to climb it on the sly, you are in full view more or less the whole way. Show some respect.....or just pull a white man and keep crappin on the Navajo's beliefs. Whatever makes ya feel good.
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deuce4
Big Wall climber
the Southwest
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Hi Werner-
I didn't notice the lightning strikes--wish I did! Sounds like it was a cool discovery.
I remember that film with Kauk and the eagle. It is one of my all time favorite climbing short films. Is there any way to see that one again? We need more inspiring movies like that one ...
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cintune
climber
Penn's Woods
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"I remember that film with Kauk and the eagle. It is one of my all time favorite climbing short films. Is there any way to see that one again? We need more inspiring movies like that one ..."
This one?
http://www.climbing-area.info/photos/videos/klettern/long-movie/adler.wmv
Cool movie, crazy eagle. Pretty low-res version and cut short at the end, but still worth watching.
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lamadera
Trad climber
New Mexico
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Hey Jeremy, what's up. Ask John and Eli what happened to them after they climbed it. Cursed man, big time. Let's get up in the Sandias sometime.
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rockermike
Mountain climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 9, 2006 - 11:54am PT
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Well, I'm an ignorant idiot. I didn't know there were two totem poles in Utah. One (ala Clint Eastwood - the one I had in my mind's eye) in Monument Valley - Navajo territory - and off limits. OK, cross that one off, don't want no bad juju (although I did do Ship Rock decades ago - clearly been suffering a curse ever since). But I am curious how hard was the real Totem Pole back in the day?
But in Canyonlands, in "Monument BASIN", there seems to be another, aka - Standing Rock (not to be confused with "Standing Rock 1" ??). That's the one in Bjonstad's book. 11- or C2. so that's what I'm asking about. Now I am confused which one the comments above are referring to.
Oh hey, I guess I could just go to Tasmania if I really want to climb a "Totem Pole" :-)
thanks and
carry on
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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I hope this doesn't offend anyone, as I'm really just trying to understand.
I've spent a lot of time in that area, photographing, as well as around/on other reservations in the country. The thing that always gets me is the squalor. What the hell do the Indians do with all of their money?
My day job is as the IT manager for a credit union, which houses the accounts for most of the tribal members of a nearby reservation. They make bank. I think we all know that by now. Most of us could only *hope* for that kind of income. Tax free, no less. Yet, they live in shacks and huts, literally. These things are on the verge of being a leanto, as they are so bad. My 4 season tent is better built then most of what I see. Where does all fo their money go? They have free land, tax free, assorted programs to help them with/give them all sorts of free services... Where does it all go? I think this thought came about as we are talking about the Navajos, who live the worst of any Indians I've seen. Yet, their casinos rake in more cash than most of the others.
Oh, and Damn! I'd love to climb the totem pole too! But Ship Rock... That thing draws me to it. It has such an incredible power and magnetism to it. It's a truly magnificant piece of stone!
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lamadera
Trad climber
New Mexico
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Some may make a lot from the Casinos, but most do not. Yes, they do have opportunities to make their lives better, via free or reduced college tuition for example. The fact is they are different. They don't fit particularly well in the white man's world. Most of the time, I don't feel like I do either.
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SuperTopo on the Web
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the one in Monument Valley, on the Navajo Reservation?
Let us know!