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WBraun
climber
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Aug 22, 2006 - 01:33am PT
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Ha, good to see you too Steve.
I never forget you running up the falls trail to the top of the Captain to rappel the Nose to scarf the booty gear, all in less than a few hours.
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seamus mcshane
climber
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Aug 22, 2006 - 01:48pm PT
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Kevin Andrews and Kenny Bokelund may have the second ascent of Mediterraneo. 2000? These guys are as reticent as they come...
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Mimi
Trad climber
Seattle
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Aug 23, 2006 - 02:06pm PT
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Really funny Russ. Those pants have been retired. Whew!
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elcapfool
Big Wall climber
hiding in plain sight
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Aug 24, 2006 - 01:34pm PT
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The Ripple is one of the coolest looking features on El Cap.
Now that is positioning!
Grape Race to Real Nose is the aid line that draws my eye.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Aug 27, 2006 - 11:32am PT
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"The "real nose" doesn't really pull as well, except maybe for the die hard obscure aid climber more or less."
That would definitely be me - a die hard obscure aid climber more or less - but definitely more "less" than "more"! I have always been interested in repeating The Real Nose = The Competitive Edge. I'm all outfitted and sponsored by the ASCA [Tom and I recently replaced a bunch of rusty old quarter-inch anchor bolts on Cosmos] so I would be prepared to do the same for Steve's route. Incidentally Steve, Jolly Roger remains my all-time favourite El Cap route.
"Watch out for the 5.11 face." Uh-oh. This would refer to the "less" bit mentioned above. I think I might need a Rope Gun. Or can you hook through this bit?
Is Grape Race to Real Nose considered legit? What would you call such a route? I always thought that Iron Son [Iron Hawk to Native Son] was cheating, because you skip the cruxes of both walls. In fact, if I had known it existed when I soloed Iron Hawk as my first solo, I definitely would have used it! [I later soloed Native Son]
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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bump for a cool thread. interesting to note that grossman was first enticed onto this line by the same ascent photo that had enticed me 30 or 40 years ago. ss
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Funny how much power this Jim Stuart photo from the back cover of Ascent 1973 has.
To climb what is shown was some very spicy, shallow aid climbing. Not quite the Crack of Dreams but I still remember being happy to be by that pitch!
Wild to be out on the bridge of the Captain's Nose. HARRRRRRRRRRRR!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Cool route Steve! Thanks for the pic!!
I always thought that Iron Son [Iron Hawk to Native Son] was cheating, because you skip the cruxes of both walls. In fact, if I had known it existed when I soloed Iron Hawk as my first solo, I definitely would have used it! [I later soloed Native Son]
Pete- If you did Native Hawk it would be bad ass because you would do both cruxes!
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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sweet photo!
classic thread
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Wow - drooling at the look of that corner. Too bad we'll have to reclimb the bottom pitches. I'd be really crying if someone had pulled ropes on that next A4 pitch - it looks to be the Real Deal.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Trouble is you aren't the Real Deal Spacepig so Dream On!
No respectable party needs a piss-stained hack like you along for the ride.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Ouch!!! LMFAO!!!
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Wow. Well, at least I still climb walls. 48 El Cap routes at current count.
Not fast, mind you, but I still manage to wobble to the top most of the time...
And you shut up, Bill. If it wasn't for you spotting my brand new and expensive glasses lying on the bottom of the Merced River and telling me where to dive - after I did a gainer off the bridge while forgetting I was still wearing them - I'd be blind right now!
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Man you guys are killing me right now! My face is sore from grinning so hard. Funny stuff!
Pete- That was unbelievable that I spotted your glasses down in the water that day! How was that even possible to spot wire frame glasses sitting on the bottom of the Merced? A good recovery it was!
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Wow, speaking of guys who don't climb walls anymore, look who crawled out from under a rock. The quintessential crab-napper himself. [At least I got my crab back]
How *did* you do that, Bill? [I bet girls ask you that all the time....]
.... and boys too. hyuck hyuck hyuck.
Hey, it's Friday night, why don't you guys grab a drink and come join me on the Friday night post?
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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damn. that bitch is fine.
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