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| Messages 1 - 14 of total 14 in this topic |
Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 12, 2006 - 07:27pm PT
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Ken
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 13, 2006 - 05:23am PT
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I didn't think so.
Ken
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Gunkie
climber
East Coast US
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Aug 13, 2006 - 07:34am PT
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Not 5.9... Maybe 5.5 :)
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elcapfool
Big Wall climber
hiding in plain sight
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Aug 13, 2006 - 07:52am PT
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I can't say I've seen much 5.5 on the captain.
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Aug 13, 2006 - 09:22am PT
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Let's go climb it and make up a new rating.
Looks like it would be a great climb for a while anyway.
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Roger Breedlove
Trad climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Aug 13, 2006 - 09:47am PT
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Help me out here Ken. What pitch is shown in your picture? Is this on the Dihedral Wall or Horse Chute--about the 9th or 10th pitch? It seems too high and close to the big roofs to be the Dihedral Wall. Just guessing.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 13, 2006 - 12:36pm PT
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Good guess Roger,
It is the 9th or 10th pitch on Horse Chute. We were trying to do the second ascent in 1977. This pitch was rated 5.9 according to the old Meyers guide. We ended up traversing over to the Dihedral and finishing up on that after this pitch partly because we felt we were going to slow and partly because the next pitch was a slimy and oozing left leaning arch which did not look to pleasant. It was only my second El Cap route and this pitch scared me and my partners. We should have just gone for it because I had led both the crux free and aid pitches.
Ken
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MSmith
Big Wall climber
Portland, Oregon
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Aug 13, 2006 - 12:54pm PT
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Could be either part way out the 9th (which is probably only about 5.7) or, more likely, the start of the 10th which according to my notes from the mid-80's is a 5.9 face traverse past two bolts (note the rope coming in from the side). The upper part of the 10th turns to mud and the 11th is even worse with the lovely addition of some green slop. Both Aquarian and HS are to be avoided in the spring and early summer.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 13, 2006 - 01:03pm PT
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It is the one right before the oozing slime pitch. I do not remember there being a single bolt.
Ken
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MSmith
Big Wall climber
Portland, Oregon
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Aug 13, 2006 - 01:57pm PT
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Ken, then it's the traverse into P10. After 20 yrs I don't remember much, but my hand drawn topo shows three bolts, the highest of which is at the anchor and the other two on the traverse to the left. My notes tend to be pretty accurate, so if the two bolts weren't there in '77 then someone added them between your ascent and mine (c. '84). My annotation says "5.9 or hard tension." Being solo, I probably took the "hard tension" option. In '77 it must have been pretty intimidating with no bolts to go for.
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Jonny D
Social climber
Lost Angelez, Kalifornia
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Aug 13, 2006 - 02:35pm PT
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I remember leading the corral corner on Aquarian in early June, in full parka, and coming out covered in slime.
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MSmith
Big Wall climber
Portland, Oregon
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Aug 13, 2006 - 03:40pm PT
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Depending on when you do it it's a full rain gear lead. And when things are really flowing the belayer had best suit up too. Did you observe the small white worms that infest the green slime?
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 13, 2006 - 04:11pm PT
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MSmith.
I remember it being hard runout face climbing and I aided two moves with shitty copperheads at a bulge above me in the picture looking at about a sixty foot fall potential. I took a long time on that pitch. That is probably why there are bolts there now. Good job soloing that thing.
Ken
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MSmith
Big Wall climber
Portland, Oregon
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Aug 13, 2006 - 04:30pm PT
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Like every route it just gets easier with time. Not a bad climb overall, if it's dry.
--Mark
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| Messages 1 - 14 of total 14 in this topic |
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