Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Messages 1 - 8 of total 8 in this topic |
TradIsGood
Trad climber
Gunks end of country
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 21, 2006 - 09:03am PT
|
Planning to purchase a new rope and rotate my Blue Water Eliminator into secondary role. I like it, except for occasional tendency to twist. But it appears to have been discontinued.
Looking for 10.2'ish rope for trad and occasional TR climbing (not big wall).
Really prefer bi-color or bi-pattern since it is easier to find the middle compared to marking.
Anybody have anything good/bad to say about Mammut SUPERSAFE 10.2 Single Rope?
Other recommendations?
Thanks.
|
|
Dusty
Trad climber
up & down highway 99
|
|
Feb 21, 2006 - 09:04am PT
|
cheap rope good rope
|
|
healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
|
|
Feb 21, 2006 - 09:26am PT
|
SuperSafe is a great rope, though I wish it came in a bi-color. I use one for all my roped solos or routes with sharp edges. I believe Kate said she's taken her's up a bunch of her wall escapades.
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
Feb 21, 2006 - 11:34am PT
|
what are you using it for?
I love my Dominator 9.4mm 65m rope and I don't think I would go back to a "fat" rope anytime soon. But I am using it mostly for trad leads with few falls. The smaller diameter ropes are great for almost everything. The only worry is the "cut factor" around an edge. But edges are bad for almost any rope, so better to plan your protection away from them.
Not sure they come in bi-color, which is nice when you can get it... but the orange rope with a nice black band in the middle is ok by me (even if I have to keep marking it).
The Dominator has stood up to this last year's rigors which consumed a pair of Mythos and two pairs of pants...
|
|
Holdplease2
Big Wall climber
Yosemite area
|
|
Feb 21, 2006 - 11:35am PT
|
Hi TIG:
Yes, I've had some good experience with my supersafe.
8 walls and three years as my main free climbing rope and it is STILL going strong, looks brand new. Still, it's being retired, uh, just in case. Plus, it held a few very big ones, so it deserves some rest.
This rope is as supple as any I've dealt with when climbing with other people. One thing I've noticed is that the sheath does not seem to fuzz and get fat as much as others. And I climb plenty in josh. However, climb in a low impact way...I usually rap, don't TR, and only fall once in a great while.
But then, I've jugged at probably 100 pitches on the thing so that has to count for something.
The "edge" rating of all of these ropes has been drawn into question recently, I don't know why.
I am buying another Supersafe, though I am also considering a Roca Tasmania as well based on the fact that Mike. highly recommends it and it holds 21 (21!!) uiaa falls.
Granted, being a fairly new climber (5 ys), I've only owned four ropes (Mammut Flash (retired, core shot), a 10 mm maxxim (retired - core shot) Sterling 9.7 (still going strong) and the Mammut Supersafe.
For cragging, though, I am starting to use a thinner line (the sterling) so that my friends won't complain.
Hope this helps,
-Kate.
|
|
TradIsGood
Trad climber
Gunks end of country
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2006 - 12:58pm PT
|
Kate - which Sterling? Thinner? You do not really say anything good or bad about it. (except that your friends like it.)
21 falls! Sounds like a rope that stays dynamic - that has to be good.
Ed - pretty much cragging. The blue water has about 100 days on it. Only one fall, plenty of rappelling. Reasonable mix of leading to set up TRs at the Gunks. Except for the tendency to twist, still handles nicely, still supple, etc. Since most of my climbing is at the Gunks, it is going to go over edges, though they aren't exceptionally sharp. Rapping on something as thin as 9.4 seems unappealing; Being a tad over 80 kilos, I usually put two biners on the reverso for rapping, just to increase the friction a bit.
|
|
Holdplease2
Big Wall climber
Yosemite area
|
|
Feb 21, 2006 - 01:05pm PT
|
Hi TIG:
Well, there is nothing special about my sterling, as I see it. Except that it is bi-pattern and I got it for $100 on sale at the mountain shop.
It is holding up OK, it feels nice, and I know sterling has some good things going on. But I don't see any reason that would make me want to buy a sterling instead of a Mammut.
I'd like to get my hands on a thinner mammut (9.4, 9.7) sometime, but I only have so much coin and the sterling is just fine.
-Kate.
|
|
caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
|
|
Feb 21, 2006 - 01:30pm PT
|
I'm with Dusty. CHeap rope is good rope.
My rationale for this one is illustrated above by other posters: core shots. You can't control when you're going to get one. Sport climbing one day, a dude kicks off a flake, and my bud's brand new Mammut gets the chop. That rock landed dead center of the flaked rope at the base. Got 4 sport leads out of a brand new rope. C'est la vie.
Plus, if the thing wears out a little sooner, you paid less for it, so no worries. You buy a new rope and go on your way. More time climbing on new ropes.
Futher, I guess I'm weird in that I've never really developed a 'handling' preference for ropes. Stiff, supple, I don't give a hoot. Nary a single hoot!
There's virtually always a deal where you can get a new rope for around $100. Of course, if you're rad like me and know people who know people who Know People, every now and then they'll take pity on you and bro-deal you down a rope for $95.
|
|
Messages 1 - 8 of total 8 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|