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billygoat
climber
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Nov 29, 2005 - 12:52am PT
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K-man,
No, not a contradiction. The kind of respect I have for sh#t going down in the backcountry is for stuff which is in and of itself amazing. I find leaving panties and ninja turtles in summit registers and showing up at the trailhead in a halucinatory state more pathetic than amazing. People who push their limits with ample experience and training behind them is awesome. But when I read the about the Reardon Palisade traverse I thought two things: he's a lucky SOB for getting away with that, and he sounds like a sport climber who got lucky. Now, without knowing the dude, he might be neither. However, that's the kind of impression he made on me.
I don't get that feeling from reading about feats like Steve House on the Rupal face or Tommy sending the Nose and Freerider in a day. Those feats draw attention because they are spectacular achievments. Reardon might be doing some great stuff, but from the outside it seems like his attitude draws more attention that what he's doing.
--William the Beard Pisser
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Nov 29, 2005 - 01:32am PT
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Hey Locker, tell us about the Nun and the Sailor!
As for those who doubt MR's Equinox solo, a single still of him above the crux without a rope or harness is enough to convince me. How else would he have gotten there if it were not by doloinh, and how would he get out of there if not by soloing?
And Leavitt's quote is funny (ie, BS), considering how he put up a grand to challenge that guy who's claim he didn't believe.
:- k
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BrentA
Gym climber
estes park
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Nov 29, 2005 - 01:48am PT
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I have soloed since my first season of climbing. It just seemed natural. I'm now in season 13, and have to admit my soloing is waaaaaaaaaaaay toned down.
I have witnesses for very few of them. In the early years I ticked a few just a letter grade below my redpointing ability. I have never attempted to garner any acclaim for any of them. They are usually just great days, days I couldn't find a partner, days I wanted some mileage.
I think the thing that might gets a lot of peoples panties in a bunch is how hi profile MR is with all this, and seems to be trying to generate some equity from it...or something like that.
He isn't the first climber to be questioned...Tomo Cesen anyone?
As far as jealousy goes, I find Largo's commentary (on most subjects inside/outside of climbing) to be most balanced and brought from a place far removed from dragging a man down so he feels better.
I'm honestly not familiar with all the routes MR claims to have 3rd classed. I, like Randy L. will have to take him at his word. I won't lose any sleep either way.
I do find it odd that even with my limited knowledge of him I get the feeling he is redlining WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY more than Peter Croft or John Bachar. Those bad mofos are like watching water flow UP the rock. While only witnessed on videos I am at no point doubting that I am watching a rock master. Can the same be said for MR? I don't know.
Interesting also, that noone has grabbed onto the gentleman posting in this thread (giving his real name) that says he found no sign of MR on the traverse?
Well, I care neither way, and hope noone ever falls third classing. I remember the laminated pic on the Steck/Salathe...
"We miss you Derek"....
I don't want to miss anyone else.
Play safe.
Brent
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jeff benowitz
climber
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Nov 29, 2005 - 01:53am PT
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not to be repetitive, but,
"The ultimate solo is the one that you don't tell anyone about."
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mtwoodsonguide
Big Wall climber
San Diego
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Nov 29, 2005 - 02:16am PT
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All I know is he supposedly did the traverse 4 or 5 days before me and supposedly left souvoniers, panties, turtles or something to let me know he is to cool to sign the register. Apparently they blew away or they are very well hidden. If they are hidden, it's kind of like the tree falling in the forest, does it make noise.
edit
I was only on 5 peaks, defintetly the next person on a couple peaks, possibly/probabally the next on the others, there were no panties in the register, no metion of anyone finding panties, no panties on the summit, no sign of him
uh, no I'm not a guide and I think I'm going to change my screen name, any sujestions
edit again- dude my spelling is so bad, where is the spell check.
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Nov 29, 2005 - 02:19am PT
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This thread reminds me of another disputed solo. Paul Bornes' onsight solo of the first seven pitches of Flying Buttress Direct (12a). This route had never been freeclimbed A3. Paul said he was a little high and thought he was on Steck Salathe. On the second pitch (11c/d) it was too late to retreat and he continued to the crux Guillotine Flake which he barely pulled off. By the time he reached the top of the Flying Buttress a snow storm moved in and he a nd another party were dropped supplies from a chopper to rap outta there. No one in the Valley believed him but he didn't care because for him it wasn't a solo since he rappelled (weighted the rope). At the time it was the hardest onsight solo in California 1989 - until now. BELEIVE IT OR NOT!
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mtwoodsonguide
Big Wall climber
San Diego
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Nov 29, 2005 - 02:27am PT
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If he really was there, if he really left them, and if he really wanted me to find them. I would have. Thats three questions which one was it
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Nov 29, 2005 - 02:36am PT
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That's awesome Al, thx for the insight.
K-man!!! Classic pointing this out...
"And Leavitt's quote is funny (ie, BS), considering how he put up a grand to challenge that guy who's claim he didn't believe."
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mtwoodsonguide
Big Wall climber
San Diego
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Nov 29, 2005 - 02:46am PT
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Locker,
unfortunatly I have no pictures from the entire month I spent in the Sierra this year. I do have receipt for a new 1.5" lcd screen for a Sony digital camera that I bought from a guy in India, arrived while I was gone, and I replaced when I got back. Now how could I have made that up.
I'll give you move by move beta for any route I've ever done.
Thounderbolt to Sill, although rarely done is nothing special and nothing to brag about. This is a guaranteed lose situation for me, but I was the next person on those peaks and if he left something in sight I would have found it.
Maybe he bailed off Pomoneum, thats still wicked fast, hell maybe he really did it, didn't leave anything in sight on the main peaks and I'm just making an ass out of my self.
That is funny about Leavitt, didn't he take some crud once for questioning someones onsite of a 12c at VRG several years ago.
You want proof Locker, I signed every register, drag your ass up there and read them, how's that for proof.
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mtwoodsonguide
Big Wall climber
San Diego
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Nov 29, 2005 - 03:04am PT
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Yeah, I know your just messing with me. In the overall scheme I don't care either but being the next one to summit those peaks puts me in a weird spot, maybe I should just keep my mouth shut, for all I know I am wrong, but my gut says bs just by looking at the time he's claiming. Should have scribled in the stupid summit register if you want to be believed, wait back up should first do it before you claim to do it.
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mtwoodsonguide
Big Wall climber
San Diego
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Nov 29, 2005 - 03:18am PT
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How about the first 10 routes in a perticular area
No, I don't guide, havn't written a guide, but am working on a guide, let's call it a work in progress.
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thesiger
Trad climber
A desert kingdom
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Nov 29, 2005 - 03:19am PT
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"So back at the base hanging out under Fred he commences to tell us how he just got back from the Brittish Isles claiming to have on-sighted, solo of course, all the Brits "headpoint" test piece routes claiming them as lite and the brits as weak!! Says the Irish climbing federation or club or something like that paid for him to develop some crags that they could'nt touch, all solo of course. "
I've not heard that MR has climbed in the UK. Seems unlikely. He has been to Ireland, not by invention though, I think. There's a surprisingly modest article about his trip over at www.theshortspan.com.
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Straight Outta Squamton
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Nov 29, 2005 - 03:25am PT
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I just got wind of a related thread at RC.n00b:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/topic/102078
Unfortunately, there have been some tales of outlandish sounding deeds in climbing, enough
that people are reluctant to take everything at face-value––just 'cause someone says it's so.
There have been a few notorious cases that fully deserved to be questioned,
and some have even been proved with little doubt to be total fabrications.
Off the top of my head, I can think of 2 or 3 characters in Nor Cal alone
who drew plenty of eyebrows in recent times with dubious "claims to fame".
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James
Social climber
My Subconcious
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2005 - 01:24pm PT
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BrentA brings up a good point with Tomo Cesen. Twight has an interesting interview with the man who claimed some pretty huge alpine link-ups. While Twight said that a number of his claims were suspect to say the least his overall belief was to give credibility to the climber.
Reardon's freesolos maybe be boisterous and there might not be total validity to all of his claims (or perhaps there is too much slander). Regardless, as a member of the climbing community he has to be taken for his word because when it comes down to it that's all you have.
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Nov 29, 2005 - 01:25pm PT
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Yeah it's really me. Hey, I went soloing with Reardon August 2005 at Tahquitz. He smoked my ass (easy to do nowadays). Nevertheless, I'll give any of you cats free rock shoes for life if you can keep up with him - serious! Anyway, soloing the Equinox ain't that big a thing - I might even give it a go sometime soon.
Never climb without a rope - peace, jb
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yo
climber
NOT Fresno
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Nov 29, 2005 - 02:39pm PT
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Hey Bachar--
I got up The Gift last month with three hangs.
I wear 42s.
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Gramicci
Social climber
Ventura
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Nov 29, 2005 - 03:15pm PT
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John, you did it right on!
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Northern Mexico
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Nov 29, 2005 - 05:34pm PT
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Bachar,
What did you guys solo on the Taqhuitz?
Juanito
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Northern Mexico
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Nov 29, 2005 - 06:06pm PT
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It was not even Bachar. The equinox comment was a dead give away!
Jaunito
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George_W_Bush
Big Wall climber
Crawford, TX
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Nov 29, 2005 - 06:54pm PT
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I put the SS on it and they confirmed that the post made by "bachar" was indeed, John Bachar. By the way, what would you expect John to say, "Yep, Reardon's a liar"? The dude is front and center in John's shoe advertising.
Hey Kofi, your organization sucks. If I could get the losers in the senate to go along with me I would withdraw from the worthless UN.
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