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| Messages 1 - 10 of total 10 in this topic |
k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 11, 2005 - 03:39pm PT
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Over on Middle C -- Anybody done it recently? Do I need screamers for the bolts?
Thx...
:- k
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Huge Balls
Big Wall climber
Darkside of the Moon
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Oct 11, 2005 - 04:26pm PT
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You should always scream when you clip a bolt
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Oct 12, 2005 - 02:53pm PT
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Kelly,
Check with Melissa and J. I know as of 6/11/2003 they had replaced 6 of the 16 bolts on the first 4 pitches. Melissa also said the bolts were long 1/4" and pretty solid (difficult to pull).
Have fun,
Clint
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Oct 12, 2005 - 03:01pm PT
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"Do I need screamers for the bolts?"
"You should always scream when you clip a bolt"
LOL!
hahahahhaha
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James
Social climber
My Subconcious
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Oct 12, 2005 - 03:19pm PT
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Check with Bernie...he's in the know about bolt replacement.
He went up there with J?
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2005 - 04:00pm PT
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Shucks, I don't know Bernie, I don't know Melissa, and I don't know J. But I'll take the info and book with it.
Went up on Stoner's Hwy Saturday. I needed to finish off that last pitch, once and for all. Ahh, green velvet jams en route to a vertical bush-whack and rock-strewn ledge....
It was the belay at Pitch 6, I believe, where I said to Davey as he arrived: "Want to see something scary?" I pointed right about 100' to a pillar with a fun set of refigerator blocks loosley assembled on top, complete with a smattering of rubble. I couldn't be exactly sure what was keeping all that suff in place. [shudder...]
As for Stoner's:: X-C-Lent !! All the bolts and belays have been replaced (ASCA) and the route is in fine condition. Only one bolt (at the second belay) showed any sign of rock fall, it's just a wee bit bent. Other than that it's a mighty worthy adventure (sans last pitch).
Cheerio...
:- k
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James
Social climber
My Subconcious
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Oct 12, 2005 - 04:15pm PT
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Bernie is easy to find in the valley. He has certain hangs. Just give him the respect he deserves and you won't have a problem with him.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2005 - 04:34pm PT
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Check, I got a #4 Friend that need fixin too boot.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Oct 12, 2005 - 08:26pm PT
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Scotty told me that Pieces of Eight was a good route but pretty scary.
Even much scarier because all the bolts haven't been upgraded yet, but I get the idea that it's not the bolt that are bad, but the vast areas without bolts that'll getcha
Peace
Karl
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James
Social climber
My Subconcious
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Oct 12, 2005 - 11:55pm PT
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Karl
It took J like an hour to climb a pitch...if that ain't hard I don't know what is.
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