Discussion Topic |
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clustiere
Gym climber
running springs, ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 25, 2005 - 03:35am PT
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I wish I had climbed here enough to know
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warpath
Gym climber
Sedona, AZ
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Feb 25, 2005 - 01:39pm PT
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How about
Phantom pinnacle??
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warpath
Gym climber
Sedona, AZ
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Feb 25, 2005 - 01:46pm PT
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I would agree with Dingus
Another classics is left side of slab happy pinnical. Not to many people make the hike, but it is worth it.
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 25, 2005 - 01:47pm PT
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Ok ok I give you one you will never go to .....
Catch-U, this Steve Wunch classic will quiet the most prolific sprayer at all times
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Dirk
climber
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Feb 25, 2005 - 02:10pm PT
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Pulput Rock, The Sermon. It's a mini NE buttress of Higher.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Bishop is DEAD, long live JT
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Feb 25, 2005 - 04:05pm PT
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Fallout above Camp 4
Desperate Kneed at Parkline Slab???
A Dogs Roof, tunnel
Ala Moana, above Reeds?? below Reeds???
Werner???
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Matt
Trad climber
moving to the RIGHT
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Feb 25, 2005 - 06:12pm PT
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North Buttress of MCR (not the DNB, but it's neighbor, not hard and nice and long, cool way to suss out the kat walk. I have lots left to do near there, but that whole are is uncrowded and full of history- bring your helmet!)
East Butt of LCR (kinda unusual and less traffic than other routes- the top is chossy but you can rap after 5 pitches w/ 2 ropes- bring a #4)
Everything at Arch Rock is cool
Serenity Crack (oh wait, there might be another party or 2 on that one...)
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 25, 2005 - 06:42pm PT
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Ala Moana, is to the right of cat pinnacle Russ. That’s that stormscrew me and yabo did.
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Matt
Trad climber
moving to the RIGHT
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Feb 25, 2005 - 07:21pm PT
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"stormscrew"?
i'm almost afraid to ask what that is...
=)
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Feb 25, 2005 - 07:59pm PT
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I would disagree with both Split Pinnacle and Ab Free
Center.
The biggest problem with Split Pinnacle is that you do
five pitches of climbing but the ground seems to come
along with you. There is no exposure. It seems like
after all that climbing you have never really gotten
off the ground. I think that severely hurts its classic
status.
I have previously stated why I don't think Ab Free is
such a good route. Gritty rock, lots of vegetation,
grody off-widths and a whole bunch of ants for about
15 feet of 1-1/2" crack. Go do Cookie Center instead.
Nobody got this the last time. There actually was a
Yosemite climber with the nickname Hawkman. Name him.
Bruce
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Larry
Trad climber
Reno NV
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Feb 25, 2005 - 08:12pm PT
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Phil something. Famous for facing the wrong way on 10.96. (An unknown classic, itself.)
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warpath
Gym climber
Sedona, AZ
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Feb 25, 2005 - 08:27pm PT
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How about Werner's Ant Trees???
I thought it was clasic.
I wonder how many of those bolts were placed by Werner? My guess is probally none seeing the bolts are next to a crack?
What about the Lost Brother?
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alik
Big Wall climber
edmonton
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Feb 25, 2005 - 08:59pm PT
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While some people might dissagree with me on this one, I gotta say Salami Ledge. Although its a little dirty in places and not very sustained I really liked it. The crack on the fourth pitch and the upper dihedral are both really good, plus the el cap chimney is one coolest approaches I've done in the valley. Good luck finding the start though. he he
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warpath
Gym climber
Sedona, AZ
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Feb 25, 2005 - 09:29pm PT
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hey what about the regular route on Washingtons Column?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Feb 25, 2005 - 11:01pm PT
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Damn I can't seem to find the citation about who Hawkman was... and my mind just didn't retain the info....
Hawkman's Escape 5.9 Three Brothers Lower Brother Michael's Ledge, FA 1972 John Dill, Phil Gleason, Peter Haan, Ed Drummond
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 25, 2005 - 11:18pm PT
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Werner's Ant Trees???
There's bolts there now? We never placed no bolts there.
ED it's Phil Gleason, his sons are both climbers too.
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warpath
Gym climber
Sedona, AZ
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Feb 25, 2005 - 11:33pm PT
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Ya Werner there is at least three brand new ASCA bolts on that route, and all but one are right next to a killer crack placement.
Hawkman's escape is a route. good or bad you should decide.
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 25, 2005 - 11:36pm PT
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Well warpath, they musta paved the road.
Hawkman's escape has a ramblin rose variation I did. I thought that made it nice.
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warpath
Gym climber
Sedona, AZ
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Feb 25, 2005 - 11:43pm PT
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Werner,
the pave road lets gumbys like my self climb routes like that, I bet it was spicy in the day, no bolts, way above a pin.
I liked hawkmans escape. lots of wide stuff.
Anyone done the regular route up clouds rest?????
Now that looks like a clasic.
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 25, 2005 - 11:58pm PT
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Yep, Dean Potter told me that Clouds Rest route is a classic.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Feb 26, 2005 - 12:03am PT
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Hey Werner, I did the replacement on Werner's Ant Trees in May 2001 (not with Jack), one pro bolt and 1 bolt/1 pin anchor, one bolt near top of Surprise. From the deck you go about 40' up the corner, switch left to second corner, about 20' up that one then out left on face with a bolt near a crystal knob, then return right to the easy low-angle corner. About 15' up that corner is a piton and bolt anchor (under a little roof). Then about 200' above that on the Surprise (Ant Trees goes right) is another 1-bolt 1-pin anchor (pulled the pin). I wanted to pull that one on the Surprise for sure, but everyone I asked accused me of wanting to make it too dangerous since a lot of people would run out of the right size pro by the time they got to it.
Pro bolt on pitch 1 was 1/4" with old rusty SMC hanger. Top of pitch 1 was a 1/4" with Leeper. The one way up on Surprise was a 1/4" with Longware hanger I think (not sure).
If the two on Werner's weren't original I'll go pull them (Surprise was Peter Spoecker/Steve Herrero 1965?). Did you continue up the corner on pitch 1 and someone else do a face variation, or did you go out left past the knob?
Sorry I didn't ask you about it ahead of time on the 2 bolts on your route, I blew it. Didn't even occur to me that they might be added. I'll pull and patch them if they were not yours. Greg
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warpath
Gym climber
Sedona, AZ
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Feb 26, 2005 - 12:08am PT
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Anyone got a topo for clouds rest.
Mr. Barnes I like the way you are honest, and take responsiblity for you actions....nice one.
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 26, 2005 - 12:09am PT
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Gee Greg, you know me well enough to know I trust you with whatever you decide. Its not my world and I believe in you. I’m not the guy who’s worried about the future.
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warpath
Gym climber
Sedona, AZ
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Feb 26, 2005 - 12:16am PT
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What about the route Peter Pan????
Classic or Not???
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 26, 2005 - 12:18am PT
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Yep, all time classic, especially the right side.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Feb 26, 2005 - 12:22am PT
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Cool Werner, I'll pull them. Unless people think that the pro bolt is a "valid" variation (yeah what defines 'valid'...)? You definitely climb in a different spot - out left on face to that little flake then back right, as opposed to up and right on the corner/arch, then roof moves and back left.
Thanks warpath, I've made mistakes, trying to avoid future ones.
And if anyone wants to hack on me, go ahead. But for the aggro ones, instead of too much spewing (yeah it's winter nothing else to do), go chop the 3 added bolts on Braille Book - Bridwell (and Roper as well) confirmed that they were added at least 6 years after the FA (old very rusty 1/4" & Leepers around pitch 2 or so).
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 26, 2005 - 12:38am PT
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Hey Greg I find no fault in what your doing whatsoever. You guys really do the hard dirty work of fixing all that mank. My hats off to you guys. I watched you that time we were on the nose and I was impressed, it’s hard work fixing all that crap that’s everywhere.
I’d never go hack on man.
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warpath
Gym climber
Sedona, AZ
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Feb 26, 2005 - 12:42am PT
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Greg
I din't think I was hacking on you, if I was I am sorry. I just knew the route had ASCA bolts on it?
What about the classic Commissioner Buttress?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Feb 26, 2005 - 12:57am PT
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There are a couple of old routes on Clouds Rest, plus a partly new one with a topo:
http://www.mindspring.com/~thharper/FTTop.html
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warpath
Gym climber
Sedona, AZ
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Feb 26, 2005 - 01:18am PT
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A lesser know route?
Leaning Tower Traverse Grade II 5.5
Fa sept 57
chuck wilts, ellen wilts, and G.B. Harr
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Feb 26, 2005 - 01:19am PT
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Hey warpath, no worries, you weren't hacking on me, I was just trying to keep others from going too far off the deep end. Also the bolt-next-to-crack thing really gets old at belays that used to be a pin (or two pins) and 1-bolt and are now single bolt (or no bolts at all) - no one cares if there are 1/4" bolts, no one notices if you remove old pins and old bolts instead of replacing them, but as soon as one bolt gets replaced next to a crack, look out!
Everything is a balancing act, we try to do the best thing. And in 2001 I should have gone and found Werner before replacing those bolts - my bad.
Thanks Werner, see you in the Valley sometime (have plane tickets to Switzerland for April so won't be til May). Hope this isn't too wet of a spring in the Valley and that you get some good weather!
And for lesser-known classics, here's an idea - even if you hate offwidth, try the first 2 pitches of Mental Block (pro to 2" for first 2). First is total junk, but the second is a classic.
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 26, 2005 - 01:35am PT
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I think thaaaaat anyone that’s ever stepped into the room of the Valley knows they’ve stumbled onto a classic whether greater or lesser. There’s many lines that just reach out and grab you by the collar and say do me.
Help yourselves, the menu is rather large. What will you have tomorrow?
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Feb 26, 2005 - 04:59pm PT
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Black Rose, Middle C. Almost never done. Exciting, pretty hard and perfect black granite. Five pitches, I think.
Final Exam first pitch. Long hike. Killer crack.
Short Cake. Weird.
Abstract Corner. Maybe 5.12, done right around 1969 or 70 by Bridwell.
JL
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Feb 26, 2005 - 09:55pm PT
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Black Rose! I remember the legendary Matt Cox describing one of the more challenging pitches as "glass".
Anybody know where Matt is these days? My partner brought Matt with us for a very early repeat of Higgin's Fairest of All in Tuolomne as our ace in the hole but, Matt never led a single pitch! Now that there are topos (well, good topos!) the route doesn't seem that bad but, back in the day, trying to figure out how to do the third pitch on sight(go down and left arond the corner) was interesting.
Bruce
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Rhodo-Router
Trad climber
Otto, NC
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Feb 27, 2005 - 03:23pm PT
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Arches Terrace Direct. Clean, elegant, and classic. Eventually there's a 200' 5.8 hand crack.
I like the Split Pinnacle too. The lack of exposure never bothered me any. Rather the opposite up by that .10c layback up top-- we did the pin ladder instead.
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warpath
Gym climber
Sedona, AZ
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Feb 28, 2005 - 02:08pm PT
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How about Yosemite Point Buttress, an old school clasic
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junior
Trad climber
Modesto. CA
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Feb 28, 2005 - 03:45pm PT
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The Freestone by lost arrow
Do you Agree Warner?
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J-Dub
Trad climber
Durango, CO
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A classic I never hear about from anyone else - Texas Chainsaw Massacre on the Arches wall. First pitch much better pro'd than its reputation, and the second is a killer 5.11a finger crack.
J-Dub
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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I forgot this one. Mouth to Perhaps, on the Apron. Steeper than usual and exciting run outs in a few places. 5.11 as I remember, but sticky rubber might have made this a little easier.
JL
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Melissa
Big Wall climber
oakland, ca
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Just an FYI in case someone else goes up to repeat this excellent climb....The Mouth has a lot of falling-would-be-bad anchors and is on the top of our public service list for the spring. For the last pitch, we skipped the original anchor because it was so bad and belayed hanging out of the crack about. For the last slab pitch, the only existing pro bolt is one of the worst I've seen, the other pro bolt is no longer there, and we had to leave gear to back up the top anchor. A pin anchor down low had totally fallen out. That anchor was naturally protectable, so this was only an issue for rappelling. We had to rap another route, which isn't a big deal on the GPA. Would be nice to check out the bit to Perhaps as well...
My awesome obscurity entry is the Penny-Nickel Arrete. The exposure compensates for the crumbly rock on top. I thnk that's as scared as I've been on a climb in a long time...and I was following.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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"Would be nice to check out the bit to Perhaps as well..."
That's the whole point of it. But I suspect the bolt on the first hard slab pitch (getting to Perhaps), which protects a 30 5.11a run out, is a coffin nail by now, so bring a bolt kit or get ready to crap your knickers.
JL
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Melissa
Big Wall climber
oakland, ca
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Or both?
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WBraun
climber
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Junior,
Yes, Freestone is an all time bad-ass classic.
I’m not going to list any climbs because there are so many that it will fill up the whole thread.
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James
Gym climber
City by the Bay
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Bad Ass Baby is a really cool "boulder problem" out in the far awahnee circuit
Twist of Fate Looks rad-though the mantle seems more committing than I was willing to partake in
Also Space Invaders is one of the most splitter cracks in Yosemite though getting off the ground is hard
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Leroy
climber
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May 19, 2005 - 06:05am PT
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What Space Invaders is thaat?The Space Invaders I know,is a wide crack.Also a super classic.The Gauntlet and the Blade.
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climberweenie
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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May 19, 2005 - 07:11pm PT
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Here's my vote (Via Aqua) from a very small sample size:
But the one bolt on the route could use replacement:
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Claude
climber
where I'll end up
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May 19, 2005 - 07:32pm PT
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Quicksilver
Pat and Jack Pinnacle
Bring it.
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Weenis
Trad climber
Shastafaria
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May 20, 2005 - 11:33am PT
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I don't know if you would call it classic but it's cool;
Selaginella Wall. Do one of the filthy open books and finish on this stiff 4 pitch deal. Rated 5.7 or 5.8. Finishes at the Fall's trail.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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May 20, 2005 - 11:50am PT
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Selaginella wins for the obscurity with the longest line! ;-)
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herm
Trad climber
Bishop
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May 20, 2005 - 09:57pm PT
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The Flakes, MCR
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Rhodo-Router
Trad climber
Otto, NC
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May 23, 2005 - 12:40pm PT
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That chickenhead-covered erratic on top of the Quarter Dome.
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Peter Puget
Trad climber
Washington
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May 23, 2005 - 01:00pm PT
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I'll second Texas Chainsaw Massacre. I remember it being a bit stiff for .11a too.
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Old&InTheWay
Trad climber
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May 23, 2005 - 10:46pm PT
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Beggar's Buttress offers shade, a short approach, five outstanding 5.11 pitches, and lots of adventure to boot.
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Old&InTheWay
Trad climber
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May 23, 2005 - 10:51pm PT
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Shadow of Doubt on HammerDome is an amazing steep knob and edge climb. Due to the bad weather last September, we were forced to crag. We stumbled across this route and were not disappointed.
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WBraun
climber
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May 23, 2005 - 10:55pm PT
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Probably nobody knows of this climb in Yosemite, Atomic Finger Crack.
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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May 23, 2005 - 11:08pm PT
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Cramming for a nice bit of inch and a quarter hands.
Little Wing
Knucklebuster...even better if you get to stand under Indian Canyon Falls.
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Alan Doak
climber
boulder, co
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May 24, 2005 - 07:15pm PT
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I'm a big fan of The Rambler in the Royal Arches area. Wear jeans and a helmet though, since it's runout 5.10 slab.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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May 25, 2005 - 08:34pm PT
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Long ago in a galaxy far, far away...
I was happy to see that first bolt on Werner's. I don't
remember it being next to a crack.....Killer approach to
Surprise, as Greg once told me.
...
As for obscure, there is Obscure because of the approach. These
are easy to think of. Then there's obscure because nobody seems
to do the route.
Stay Free is on my list of Obscure Routes To Do, but I'm
waiting for my rocket pack to arrive. Is it any good?
I went to do Essence, but I got half way there and said
FugIt.
How about Back to the Slammer? First a hike, then a climb,
then a rap.
High Pressure seemed obscure without the long approach
(don't try it this weekend). Belay on the pedistal at the
end of the roof for an entertaining view of your 2nd.
:- k
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Ken Zemach
Trad climber
Redwood City, CA
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May 21, 2007 - 04:11pm PT
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I loved Inverted Staircase (Fairview). If someone ever gardens out the lower cracks, it'll be awesome, and a nice "addition" in between the difficulty level of the ever populoar Regular Route and Lucky Streaks; there's certainly never a line on it. Just remember that it's wet early season AND there's a nest up there, so it's a late summer/early fall route. Also, I want to thank whoever replaced the bolts on that. Would have been way sketch if they were old.
Since we're on the topic of replacing bolts... didn't the two now-hangerless bolts on Steck-Salathe orginally have hangars? When I went up there, the lower one was badly bent downwards (from a fall I'm assuming), and looked unlikely to hold me if I fell on it. That, and missing the next one, made for a pretty terrifying lead. Am sure replacing those would be controversial, but I'm throwing it out there for discussion... Could we at least think about replacing them with new 1/2" hangerless bolts?
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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May 21, 2007 - 05:22pm PT
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A) Windfall- 5.11, on the Tower of the Cosmic Gods. Four pitches, cool location, beater hike.
B) Digital Delight- 5.12a 45' long. Elephants boneyard left of Elephant Rock. Off Fingers flush crack through gray rock. Dimitri Barton first lead this gem in '87, it has probably still seen less than ten ascents.
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LongAgo
Trad climber
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May 21, 2007 - 06:40pm PT
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On some mentioned, and some not:
Apron thoughts: Perhaps - pretty hard and run. Be careful. Punch Bowl - also on the apron, 5.10 and not so run. Fun because it's off the beaten path and requires a bit of figuring to get started. Also in the shade on warm days. Maybe check around before going as rockfall may have nipped some of the route. Don't know.
Crest Jewel on North Dome - probably is more popular nowadays, but since it's a bit of a hump to get there, maybe not done that much. A really fine face climb.
Inverted Staircase on Fairview - yes, a good climb. Again, not so popular. One traversing pitch was protected by an old bolt through a knifeblade blade piton and should be replaced, or backed up and left as a monument to Kamps who was low on hangers that day. For real obscurity, there is Always Arches left of Staircase. Reid & Falkenstein, 1983 mentions it in the index, but there is no topo. Old Kamps Higgins special. Go up slabs below big arches. Keep going. When you're in the mood for a real "beta-minimum."
Others on Fairview: Piece de Resistance - face, off width, roof on beautiful rock. Pretty sustained mid 11 on crux pitch, but well protected. Not sure why it's not done more or why R in old Meadows guidebook, except for maybe the 5.9 off width which is quite solid. I don't recommend Mr. Kamps - quite run 11. But do recommend Unh-Huh, 10a and not done much. Goes over a massive 5.3 roof! Start is a little run, but can be avoided by doing first pitch of Lucky Streaks instead. I like Roseanne and Peter Peter 5.9 and 10a. Neither gets done much maybe because they are both somewhat run out. When You're Strange near Pumpkin is another one not getting done much. Hard to recommend - has a hard move above a sharp little ledge before you can clip a bolt on first pitch, and some long knob runs in other areas.
Cloud's Rest - quite a long adventure, but worth it. Half way between mountaineering and rock climbing on a long, sweeping face. As Roper said in his old guidebook, "Little is known about this route ... Thank heaven. That's the fun part.
Tom Higgins
LongAgo
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Ken Zemach
Trad climber
Redwood City, CA
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May 21, 2007 - 07:55pm PT
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Notes on prior comment:
*The Inverted Staircase traverse bolt has been replaced. Thankfully...
*Crest Jewel is pretty well traveled now. I've done it twice from Royal Arches, once with the Direct added on and once without. Both times we were not the only ones on the route. The first time, some couple had, get this, brought a haul bag from Tioga Road to practice hauling! I kid you not. Bless them for trying to do something that they thought no one else would be on though; that was definitely considerate. And they let us pass.
"For real obscurity, there is Always Arches left of Staircase. Reid & Falkenstein, 1983 mentions it in the index, but there is no topo. Old Kamps Higgins special. Go up slabs below big arches. Keep going. When you're in the mood for a real "beta-minimum.""
Holy crap, I've was eyeing those arches last year. Wanted to start on the right hand side, arch up, then across, then back down (meaning some downclimb-ish leading for the follower!) back down to the ground on the left side. Would be hilarious to start AND end on the ground; kind of a pointless "Girdle Traverse-y" climb yet would be at least 6+ full pitches. But you say it's been done perhaps? Sweet! Totally want to try that.
Unfortunately, I'm not that good of a climber, so the adventure stuff gets a little wiggy. But I've still made a personal pact with myself that when I'm not leading my GF up something this summer, I want to be on something that's not in SuperTopo. No offense to STopo of course, but I've found the adventure is well worth the risk of a bad route every now and then. Speaking of which, how are the routes on the Cathedral Spires?
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coiler
Trad climber
yosemite
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May 21, 2007 - 08:15pm PT
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Alley Cat- Middle Cathedral rock. the topo says grassy Cracks, they're not that grassy. There are lot's of nice fist cracks up there!
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a.s.
Big Wall climber
SF, CA
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May 21, 2007 - 08:31pm PT
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This doesn't exactly fit into the genre of mostly longer routes mentioned, but I really liked Vanishing Point.
It's a lesser known classic.
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WBraun
climber
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May 21, 2007 - 08:33pm PT
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The "Lizard King" at the base of the Lost Brother.
A real test piece. Who has done? I did 2nd.
Others
=
Tunnel Vision
Gait of Power
Atomic finger crack
Soul sacrifice
Duncan Imperial
Wild Turkey
Overdrive
And the list can go on and on and on .....
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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May 21, 2007 - 08:54pm PT
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Werner, Dru Marquardt y yo did the third of lizard king shortly (weeks? days? a week?) after you and Coz did the second (replacing the pin that was dangling on the sling on top as I recall(?))
other cool obscure ones,
Midget chimney
Sky
I climbed Soul sacrifce twice when I was 27, once with a 17 yr old and once with a 37 yr old (gimmee time and I'll remeber the names) on at least one of those ascents I utilised 'sliders™
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WBraun
climber
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May 21, 2007 - 09:04pm PT
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Wow, pin that was dangling on the sling on top?
And still I live?
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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May 21, 2007 - 09:28pm PT
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's what I heard, is all ...
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K. Fosburg
Sport climber
park city, ut
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May 21, 2007 - 09:32pm PT
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How about Powerpoint? That route is amazing! Has it become a classic must-do for the grade?
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nick d
Trad climber
nm
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May 21, 2007 - 09:34pm PT
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Werner, "still I live?". Not sure about that one. Can you prove that statment? What is this sentience? Is it quantifiable? Just wanna know your criteria baby!
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WBraun
climber
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May 21, 2007 - 09:34pm PT
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Yes so true Kevin.
PowerPoint first ascent by some guy named Bill Gates.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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May 21, 2007 - 09:37pm PT
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"Punch Bowl - also on the apron, 5.10 and not so run. Fun because it's off the beaten path and requires a bit of figuring to get started. Also in the shade on warm days. Maybe check around before going as rockfall may have nipped some of the route. Don't know. "
Punch Bowl had missing crushed bolts when I tried to do it 25 years ago, THEN a huge rockfall poured down over it more recently.
I still climb at the Apron but I think the Punch Bowl is history
Peace
karl
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bob
climber
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May 21, 2007 - 10:05pm PT
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Silent Line. If you don't mind pulling on the first pitch(or 13) it has some of the best crack climbing I have done in the Valley. No sh#t. What do you think Werner? Three raps Werner? How far did you go left on the ledge for the descent?
Did Min Ne Ah recently with a buddy. THe rock is not good for the upper part and we used a 6 friend on all but two pitches. OK so the route isn't super classic in rock quality but hanging out on that face, heck, even staring up that face right of YPB is soooooo cooool.
LongAgo, Piece de Resistance seemed like the crux was 12 and on sheeeeeite rock. Constant changing kind of thing. Hearing that you don't think Mr. Kamps is a classic almost hurts me. I think that route sports some of the best climbing on Fairview Dome. Great rock for the most part, quality pro, ok well maybe not so quality at times but fug that route is good.
Retrospective on Fairview is a really great route in my opinion. It has one of the best face pitches on that rock. Make sure you are solid on 5.10. Crux is a sport pitch. Hats off to Mike Schaffer(sp?) for that awsome route.
Bob J.
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TYeary
Mountain climber
Calif.
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May 21, 2007 - 11:54pm PT
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Classics can be a function of your state of mind at the time. The very first route I ever did in the Valley was Positivly Fourth Street. A route hardly worth mentioning except it was my first. A bit of a roof and a lot of bat sh#t. I'm sure Werner has skipped this route(maybe not) It will always be a classic to me.
Tony
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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May 22, 2007 - 12:21am PT
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Dru, @ the top of Powerpoint-one of the best[despite the branding]-(a few days before or after our climb of Realm of the Lizaed King)
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WBraun
climber
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May 22, 2007 - 12:25am PT
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K-man
Stay Free is a winner. The Walt Shipley classic high above Columbia point off the falls trail.
bob
I don't know what people do for the descent on the left side of ribbon falls but I always just kept going west until it got easy.
There are a couple of low angle raps off some twigs. Not too bad.
I don't know, ya just do what you have too. Like you know ....
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WBraun
climber
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May 22, 2007 - 01:05am PT
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Kevin
manana is trade route now.
Cro Magnon Capers was some climb Warbler took me to, to try and kill me.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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May 22, 2007 - 01:30am PT
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While maybe not "classic" by most standards, the Leaning Tower Traverse, which I Posted a TR for recently,is pretty obscure. It's an obvious "line" that most see and wonder about, but it is seldom done. I thought it was a fun day, adventurous and will definitely do it again. Really moderate with some caveats.
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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May 22, 2007 - 03:00am PT
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Yo Kevin, Walkabout is 5.11 now? Rick told me you guys rated it 10c. Kinda figured.....did you see our bolts ?
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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May 22, 2007 - 03:14am PT
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bad seed on el cap hasn't seen many ascents. there is some great climbing on that line. for sure one that deserves to be done more often.
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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May 22, 2007 - 11:14am PT
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Kev, you guys scored....nice one! How about the field of big knobs on the right side....one of these days!
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bob
climber
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May 22, 2007 - 11:27am PT
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Did a route a couple years back where we started on Werner's Ant Trees(no ants) to Surprise(great surprise that one!) to Indica Point. I Believe it to be a D. Barton/ W. Shipley route. Sitting in Res. 4 or 5 and looking up at that beautiful book all the time. That book being Indica Point. The last pitch to the railing on the Falls Trail is pretty friggin cool. Ending up there is what made it classic. Our buddy was waiting with his feet hanging over the edge. I wanted to grab his foot. Ahhhhh Indica Point. Great way to adventure your way up that whole Five Open Books area.
Back to Tuolumne....The Nazgul is really fun. Its on that wall to the right of Hobbit Book and Mesmerized. Speaking of Mesmerized, the route as a whole blows for the most part, but the roof is REALLY rad. Worth picking your way up to it just to do that thing. Lead it then TR!!!! Another great hang where you're pretty much ensured to have it to yourself. Maybe not anymore because of this thread, oops. j/k
I love this stuff. Please keep giving me ideas folks.
Bob j.
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LongAgo
Trad climber
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May 24, 2007 - 06:51pm PT
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Karl, Wow, incredible to know an entire route of mine is gone. Humbling. Punch Bowl wiped out. Thanks. I'll stop suggesting people go look, never mind myself going up there for old times sake (though maybe it could be "replaced," a true phoenix).
Largo, I too liked Black Rose, but it is run. But on fabulous, imposing, black rock, especially in the shade. You’re probably right about Abstract Corner - little traffic. But I did flop on it several times. Couldn't seem to figure it very well. Bad day or maybe it's just very hard.
Ken, Always Arches goes through the arches on the left side of Fairview. Not in any guidebook. Higgins Kamps pre 90's, maybe pre 80's. Careful, don't go up the black steak below arches to white streak above. That's Burning Down the House, a totally different kettle of fish. Third class up the slabs to obvious crack system slightly left and above center of arch. 5.10 over arch. Continue another pitch straight up to under another arch, bolt above. 4th pitch past another bolt to another arch, then crack to big ledge. Here one can escape left or ... I'll leave it at that for the adventure in store.
Bobj, OK, good to know Piece de Resistance crux pitch isn't the beauty I remember. Funny how memory does that. I do remember a few flaky flakes, but not many. Maybe it's changed - good call for those interested. As for Mr. Kamps, you are right, wonderful rock, generally good pro, but I recall one pitch traversing right, then straight up where it seems like 11 many feet out. Seemed very scary, and I didn't like the zig zag rope deal. Maybe it's a double rope pitch? Or my memory is jumbled up - a real possibility.
Tom Higgins
LongAgo
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snyd
Boulder climber
Asheville, NC
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May 24, 2007 - 07:04pm PT
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What about that 11d splitter way up in Lehemite Canyon? 2 pitches, 5.10 and the business. Long Hike!
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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May 24, 2007 - 08:02pm PT
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Tom, I too lost a nice route to the left of Punchbowl to rockfall. " The Punchline " ( no not the one on Arch Rock) 10d, 6 pitches w/Brians' Bennett and Bailey was a beaut ! Also enjoyed Punchbowl.....dam rockfall !
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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May 24, 2007 - 09:53pm PT
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not exactly lesser known but,
way classic
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Towshab
climber
San Diego, CA
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May 25, 2007 - 10:52pm PT
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We did the thief the other day. The second pitch was a classic. But I don't think it gets done to much because of the first "4th class" pitch.
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Mimi
climber
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May 25, 2007 - 11:36pm PT
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Hilarious Warbler about WB's aroma! I don't recall him being aromatic although his ring structure is resonant and uncommonly stable.
Pink Dream to Fatal Mistake
Good Book
Wing of Bat
The Promise
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Mimi
climber
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May 26, 2007 - 02:07am PT
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Unflappable like a noble gas. heh-heh
Brawnium? Where does that element fall on the periodic table?
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Mimi
climber
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May 26, 2007 - 02:25am PT
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The Thief was on my list in my journal but someone had me cross it out. Sounds like bad advice at the time. Looking forward to it!
Warbler Inquiry Edit: How's The Joker next to The Thief? Gotta do Barefoot Servants (5.10c OW) while up there too. Nice trifecta and way burly!
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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May 26, 2007 - 03:53am PT
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The Thief is a beauty, straight in straight up splitter, brief crux if I remember correctly. I think somebody did a face route over there on a gold swath of stone as well. Anybody know about it? While we are on the subject, another obscurity with a junky approach pitch is the Viper, 511.b in the lower canyon. Worth doing in the fall when you can cross the River. I think Grant or maybe Werner picked this plumb.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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May 26, 2007 - 11:52am PT
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Anyone climb that bolted underclimg route may be called Lightning bolt crack
on Mt Broderick?
I think Walt finished it with maybe Schultz after we had had a wee epic on in years earlier when packing home made giant cams.
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Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
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May 26, 2007 - 12:32pm PT
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Golden Bough. usually has too many oak leaves in the finish, but otherwise a nice climb and pretty mellow for a Grade IV .10
On my first attempt I got many pitches up something way scary and way too far to the left... (shudder)
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WBraun
climber
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May 26, 2007 - 01:30pm PT
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Jaybro
The Lightning bolt crack on Mt Broderick was climbed by two SAR guys Gleason (The son of Phil) and Dana last summer.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 26, 2007 - 03:22pm PT
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How about The Vortex on the Fifi Buttress? Did that line ever see any action? Sure looked tasty on paper if a bit stout!
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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May 26, 2007 - 03:59pm PT
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not really unknown but.........
I thought the best looking crack was Mr Natural-its like someone bent the apron and it snapped.
A route I have enjoyed is Bishops Terrace. Ends with locker twin 5.8 cracks that are marble statue smooth
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duncan
Trad climber
London, UK
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May 26, 2007 - 04:07pm PT
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Steve, I tried The Vortex with a Washingtonian (John Carpenter?) in '82 or '84. We got to the fifth belay, but ran out of gas. The climbing was excellent to that point.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 26, 2007 - 06:10pm PT
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Chick Holtkamp, Randy Russell, and Eric Zschiesche put a lot of effort into the Vortex and raved about it. If it were more accessible, it would see a lot more traffic.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 26, 2007 - 06:17pm PT
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Speaking of Fifi Buttress, does The Warbler have anything to do with you, Kevin? Done in 1982 by Werner Braun and Ed Berry with the FFA by Bellizi and company).
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K. Fosburg
Sport climber
park city, ut
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May 26, 2007 - 07:28pm PT
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I remember Eric Z. describing the Vortex as an "Engineerin' Marvel" with a nod or maybe it was a wink.
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
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May 26, 2007 - 08:40pm PT
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Point Beyond/Angel's Approach to Lucifer's Ledge. Wear a helmet.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 27, 2007 - 11:47am PT
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Thanks Kevin- I had a feeling events were connected here. Nice to have the cleanup crew be your friends for a change.
Eric Z is an indelible character for sure. He spent some time in Tucson so I had the pleasure of getting a taste of what he was serving up back then. The guy was a natural and could climb harder routes in his Hushpuppies than I could likely get up back then. LOL Just like a cool breeze...............right when you need it!
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Mimi
climber
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Mar 11, 2008 - 12:15am PT
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With climbing season right around the corner, here's a bump for a gem of a thread!
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martygarrison
Trad climber
atlanta
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Mar 11, 2008 - 11:28am PT
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I third (or fifth) thief, gauntlet, essence. great thread.
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localdan
Trad climber
Exeter, CA
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Mar 12, 2008 - 01:33pm PT
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What about the NW face of Middle Cathedral Rock? Anyone?
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ring tailed cat
Trad climber
seattle
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Mar 13, 2008 - 12:32am PT
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great thread, so many fun times. how about yasoo dome reg. route, any body trek up for a climb with a great position in tenaya canyon. coonyard pinnacle, 1st accent in stiff soled shoes, nuts! reg. route pharohs beard, out of the way and you can do ying-yang and manana in the same outing. east but. of el cap, not to be missed, along with ne but. higher cath. rock and steck-salthe, the best classic grade iv's in the valley. cheers rtc
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 13, 2008 - 01:05am PT
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Yeah Audubon Buttress
Those were the days Kevin
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clustiere
Trad climber
berkeley ca
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Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2008 - 09:16pm PT
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East Buttress of Lower Cathedral good.
So how is the North Buttress of Middle??
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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May 16, 2008 - 11:58pm PT
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poker face
ilsa, she-wolf of the s.s.
beggar's buttress
all killer, no filler, and ya never see anyone on 'em, at least you didn't back in the mutafukkin' day...
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Double D
climber
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May 17, 2008 - 12:06am PT
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Dynamo Humm above camp 4...way above. Kevin, didn't you put that up? If I remember the crux (for most) was the last few moves on tips and this little quartz crystal for your foot. But the crux for me was the 5.9 OW. Classic little obscure line.
I've always wondered if anyone did any further routes up there. It's kind of a wild looking place.
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WBraun
climber
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May 17, 2008 - 12:38am PT
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The Fist-a-bule at "Serria Point".
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Double D
climber
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May 17, 2008 - 12:42am PT
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Kevin … Ed was too busy keeping Sausalito Archie in check for that action!
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WBraun
climber
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May 17, 2008 - 12:58am PT
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Bear Necessities?
I don't know Kevin? Probably not if I can't remember.
By the way it's hot right now, hot, real hot, baking hot and the mosquitoes are hungry. The river is rising, and the grass is growing.
And there's so many people here ... it's a nuthouse. Maybe tomorrow it will be february again .... peaceful.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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May 19, 2008 - 09:45pm PT
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hey there warbler... say, i just saw this thread... and was checking it out... (backwards, though, oh, my, so i dont know what the first part is, but will look soon)...
say, as to your quote to werner:
"Hi Werner -
Did you ever do Bear Necessities? Reider and Chappy did that one first.
could you post of picture of what this climb is---that my brother did (chappy)....
is there a nice pic of the rock (bearnecessities), or is it a group of rocks... thanks a lot, if you can ... i will also try to look them up...... :)
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Professor
Trad climber
Logan, UT
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May 19, 2008 - 10:16pm PT
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Has nobody mentioned Positively 4th Street.
The first two pitches were perfect but I had to clean a few years worth of leaves out of the upper pitches to get jams and pro in there.
I seem to remember a nice featured and unclimbed face to the left of the upper pitches as well...
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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May 19, 2008 - 10:43pm PT
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hey there warbler.... wow, say, thanks a lot... i will try that... thanks, from a very happy to learn, neebee...
god bless!
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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May 19, 2008 - 10:45pm PT
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hey there all... yeah, say,.... i realy like this stuff on yosemite as we saw so much of it while growing up... it is like part of us....
i never, of course, knew about any of these lesser known, though JUST AS MIGHTY spots...
thanks guys... this is great stuff-info...
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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May 19, 2008 - 11:05pm PT
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hey there warbler... say, i found a link for grizzly peak.... natually there'd be one...
i think this is the wrong angle... i would have wanted to see more to the ???left side??? ... not sure... i may be wrong..
here is the link i saw... with the pic..
http://www.summitpost.org/mountain/rock/154001/summitpost.html
also, say:
i learned about CHARLES BAILEY...
you sure learn a lot around here... :)
*got to get off and do some work... will be back to see if there is more neat history reads from you all...
i like this thread... thanks, to the started... your name was too hard for me to remember how to spell it.. i'm sorry...
it started with a "c"
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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May 19, 2008 - 11:23pm PT
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It sure sounds like a lot of can go out and get first ascents of stuff that's been done before. I'm in.
Tom
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Radish
Trad climber
Exeter, California
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May 20, 2008 - 02:28am PT
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Did anyone mention the South Face route on North Dome?? Man, thats a classic one, with views of Half Dome right there and the Valley below. We just hiked in from Porcupine Flats I think and camped on top of the Dome. Around 7 pitches and only a Yosemite 5.7!!
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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May 20, 2008 - 02:41am PT
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hey there clustiere... i was on checking email, for one last time tonight... say, thanks for this neat post... (thread)... i got your name now.... sorry i messed it up ... (i get things backwards sometimes and did not want to mess it up with the i, e's...
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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May 21, 2008 - 10:28am PT
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Dynamo Hum (up behind C4, uphill from Henley Quits, was originally C4 tree, and the FFA was Largo and Tobin 75.
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Double D
climber
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May 21, 2008 - 11:25am PT
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Thanks for the info on Dynamo Hum Peter. It never ceases to amaze me at the diversity of climbs that John did. The crux move is on pinky tips...and Largo's mitts ain't that small!
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clustiere
Trad climber
berkeley ca
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Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2009 - 01:58pm PT
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Bump for yosemite climbing trip!
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mongrel
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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May 19, 2009 - 12:27am PT
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Since clustiere bumped this back up, might as well answer his question of last year: N buttress (regular) of Middle Cathedral is good. A few sections of undistinguished (easy) climbing, but quite a lot of good pitches too; not to mention the obligatory short grovelly tunnel-through chimney for a Harding route (way easier and a bit dirtier than most though). The 10a corner high up is really good climbing, with passable TCU or small wire pro, wish the one ancient spinner bolt there were better but you are OK without it (especially if you select B: do not fall). Whole climb is maybe not quite so good as E buttress, nor as hard and sustained as NE buttress of Higher, but pretty damn good.
Another rarely done route that's also pretty good is East Corner of Higher Spire. 5.9 or harder on almost every pitch.
In the slab realm, do something worthwhile (not Harry Daley) to get to Monday Morning, then to Patio, then to Coonyard. After MM slab, you won't find a line in front of you. Great rock, climbing similar to Grack Marginal which people rave about. Reasonable runouts (rhymes with R).
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Mike Dahlquist
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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May 21, 2009 - 01:15pm PT
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I totally agree about East Corner on Higher Spire, I think it's a much better route than the Reg. on the spire.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
The Great North these days......
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May 21, 2009 - 01:47pm PT
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Essence is a really cool two pitch climb 5.11. It just is quite a hike to get to.
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Trad-Monkey
Trad climber
SF, CA
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May 21, 2009 - 04:31pm PT
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SuperSlide, the bottom pitches are a blocky adventure but the last pitch has a totally classic splitter hand crack.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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May 21, 2009 - 05:09pm PT
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DD wrote: "Thanks for the info on Dynamo Hum Peter. It never ceases to amaze me at the diversity of climbs that John did. The crux move is on pinky tips...and Largo's mitts ain't that small!"
Now that's a route I hadn't thought about in like 30 years. There were some dime edges by the crack and by using the edge of the tip seam as an edge itself, it was possible - barely. The first bit is hard as well.
Devil's Dancefloor has got to be one of the great names in all of Yosemite.
Not at all obscure but super duper good is the Lost Arrow Tip free. Never hear about people doing that one.
And for a super obscure and totally forgotten run out gem, try Chain Reaction, or the easier Peanut, to its right. Both good climbs.
Lastly, The Fin. Great 11d finger crack.
JL
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Haven't done the NW Face of MCR, but I've been at the base, and the route looks pretty clean and fun.
Many, many decades ago, Richard Harris and I did the NW Buttress, which was easy and enjoyable. The NW Face looked like an enjoyable, straightforward and lenghty romp.
John
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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The Book of Job
Beggars Buttress
Lost Arrow Chimney
Stepping Out
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