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| Messages 1 - 11 of total 11 in this topic |
Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 27, 2009 - 03:07pm PT
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Doug is a friend and I have followed him up routes like El Cap's West Face (He brought a quart of water and no headlamp... that's a whole different story) and Whitney's East Face (we climbed it in October although 10 climbing parties passed us coming back DOWN the trail in the morning telling us it was snowed out and unclimbable, one hiker died on the trail due to ice, and it looked more like an ice/snow climb than a rock climb with temps in the 20s) - great fun. Yes we summited, but we were the only climbers on the summit that day. I can admit that I actually had tears coming from my eyes on the summit... manly tears, but it was an ordeal. Hard. Memorable. Epic at times. The usual fare with Doug on the sharp.
Doug is extremely talented, and knows his abilities, but you'd better know what you're getting into when you shove off with him. I just found out what he's been doing lately -
http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/englekirk_fires_two_valley_v_513s_in_a_week/
He also tows into huge 20-30' surf with friends in Mexico and California. Very humble, very kind, very giving, getting older, and jeez he's taking away my excuse of being old myself.
I didn't start climbing 5.11 until I turned 40 and Doug was the one (and his gym) who got me going.
Doug, well done, you're still the man, and I am praying for a good winter surf season. Just get back to the coast in one piece!
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Oct 27, 2009 - 03:39pm PT
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Sounds to me that this Doug is one of the keepers...
he will have stories to tell one day, as I can imagine he has plenty enough for now...
cool tribute to a cool enough guy who climbs really difficult climbs..
keep up the good work Doug!!!
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 27, 2009 - 04:22pm PT
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Back in '92-'94 Doug was competing in World Cup comps, among an elite group doing 5.14s. He won a few US comps too. He also did the FA of Genesis on El Cap. But that was like 16 years ago. He's over 45 and still killing it. Just amazing... If you're over 40 and coasting... get back on it and put the pedal down! You're still a spring chicken.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Oct 27, 2009 - 04:24pm PT
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D'oh! Soren and I passed Doug and Spaz when we were coming down from the Tower - they were going up - and I didn't recognize Doug!
Sorry, Doug - would have loved to have talked with you!
"PTL and Pass the Pitons" Pete
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Oct 27, 2009 - 06:03pm PT
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Wow. good to hear about older climbers like this!! Thanks.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Oct 27, 2009 - 09:48pm PT
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Since when is 45 a "older climber"?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Oct 27, 2009 - 09:50pm PT
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Yeah, I have to agree that 45 is not really older.
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Idaho, also. Sorta, kinda mostly, Yeah.
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Oct 27, 2009 - 11:55pm PT
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Genesis awaits you.
Good Luck. ;-)
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Oct 28, 2009 - 12:49am PT
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Trad climbers peak later than bouldering rats. Caldwell is well past his 'athletic prime,' if he was a wide reciever he would be retired. but he is just getting warmed up. Look at Alex Lowe, man! He was CRANKING.
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 29, 2009 - 12:49am PT
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And the obvious is Fred Beckey who is way into his 80s and still doing some rad stuff (last I heard was looking for a partner for Fishook Arete). He is a super freak! and I mean that in a good way.
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| Messages 1 - 11 of total 11 in this topic |
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