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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 20, 2009 - 01:30am PT
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Now reaching middle age plus, I've made a commitment to get out at least once a week with my co-worker( a twenty something non climber) and drag my over weight butt up some rock. My usual suspects are either more over weight than I ,tied up with their SO's or on walls ( NA) right now. So I have to make do with climbing partners.....My neighbor ( an over weight construction worker with an unfortunate recent DUI, says he want's to change his life and get in shape) I read potential belayer.
I drag the above suspects and Mr. Muirs Great grandson, a Great hiker and in absurdly great aerobic shape( retirement allows such archaic pursuits such as bicycling and running umpteen miles a day) to the above titled thread.
The Pie shop- I've been climbing there for 31 years( the actual pie shop burned down at least a week before I ever came into the picture in 78'), has a moderately aerobic hike in- (good for the neighbor,)making me and my 21 year ol' sawdust companion sweat but is knott even making Muir's descendant( close to 70) break a "glow". I slow the approach pace to reduce the risk of cardio vascular termination on my Neighbor to a 14k summit bid ( knott to my own dislike) Step, breath.........
We finally arrive on the patio and crack a few (warming but still chilled PBR's), Ahh life is good.
Now it's time to get to the business, 3 possible approach pitches to get to the alcove at the base of Crepe's corner. 1 the optional 3rd class start,2 the real 1st pitch, which unless you're TM, you try to avoid after doing once or twice, and the third option the run out 5.6 face DFU approach, the most aesthetic but I was feeling a Knutt short.
Another PBR and the Knutt dropped or at least I think it did, up the face and don't FU.
Obviously I survived ( or my wife would be posting the unthinkable, that she is quitting her job and living in Mexico off my New York Life ins. Policy...), Irregardless( I know it's knott a word, but I like it). So I get to the alcove and set up a bomber belay (I'm knott sure what creatures I'm going be hauling up this "moderate" pitch). Well the truth is I decide to bring 2 60 meter ropes to ease the descent(quick rap), well....I forgot the actual work of yarding 50 meters (2x) through the petzel belay device and by the time I have 2 associates up to the alcove my tri's are smokin...( Knott enough moderate pitches under my flabby belly in a few years.... ) Now it's time for me to lead the "great " corner pitch 5.6ish. I set up a small alien to protect the belay and undercling my way into the great unknown ( So I've done the route 250 times or so, day light, moonlight ,snow, whatever), about 20' out I grab for my next piece and the reality of not climbing for a while takes it's icey grip. I fumble for a piece off my rack,which would be any climbers dream rack, and struggle to get in a green .75 C4...Wrong, I take a deep breath and remember that I've soloed this pitch up and down but at this very moment I'm starting to Peek and Freak....I play the silly little mental chess game and replace the "wrong" piece and fumble for another smaller piece, ( purple C4 or red alien.....) I hold my composure and get the next piece to confidently bury into the crack and drag the rope up (using my teeth in classic climbing literature fashion) and clip the piece. Upon the huge sphincter relaxation I soon remember the fact that climbing is serious shiite. I manage to continue is this inglorious fashion to the chains and haul up my comrades on this debacle. We rappel off with two of the same colored REI special Mammut ropes. Good ropes but 2 of the same color is a definite NO NO.Got lucky hit the patio for a couple PBR courage builders and I talk Muir's GG son into Hands Masseuse. He says I should go up and take the ledges (Halfway) easy out, I say I'll let him know when I get there. Tighten the shoes and stretch the shoulders a bit and I'm off. I know being out of shape is going to catch up with me on this pitch so I quickly w/o placing pro get up to the first vertical section of the crack, everyone is awed but I'm struggling to catch my breath on the verge of tossing the proverbial technicolor grapes actually. I sink 2 pieces and without regard for my self esteem yell "Take",( I hang my head in shame now but at the time it seemed like my only reasonable option). I sort the rack and collect my racing pulse, reach up high( with my Gawd given Ape index) and establish a solid red C4 above the crux, clip it and grovel back down to my stance for a few more breaths..... "Top roping" the crux has always been a mantra of mine, so it's time to do the moves....Somehow my body remembers the actual climbing events and I don't pitch onto my overhead gear.I'm puffing like a steam locomotive ( Bad simile but it was the truth) and get to the little black knob for a real rest. I struggled up the remainder of the pitch in this inglorious style, but safely and gruntingly made it to the top and brought up my partners for today's innocuously repetitive ascent of "Hands Masseuse". I need to get out more often....." Gawd is great, Beer is good and people are crazy".
Sorry no Pics but who really needs to see phat men sewing up moderates anyways?
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Wack
climber
Dazevue
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Sep 20, 2009 - 09:47am PT
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We would start the day early at the Pie Shop so we could make it over to Zephyr Cove for the afternoons festivities.
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MisterE
Trad climber
Canoga Bark! CA
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Sep 20, 2009 - 12:00pm PT
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Noice!
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Sep 20, 2009 - 12:40pm PT
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Mark - this is a fun read. Good job surviving.
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Sep 20, 2009 - 02:16pm PT
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Oh yeah!
I love the Pie Shop.
Zander
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Jay Wood
Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
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Sep 20, 2009 - 02:52pm PT
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Is this sad evidence of what comes from drinking cheap beer?
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 20, 2009 - 11:46pm PT
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Truth is Jay it's knott the "cheap beer" but the "Easy" Livin' and the SNPA that puts on all the lbs.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Sep 21, 2009 - 12:44am PT
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OH YEah!
Now that's how it get's done!
Hydrabeers are mandatory on days like that!
Bet those guys had a great time with you on the lead!
Good work
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tadhunt
Trad climber
Sunnyvale, CA
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Sep 21, 2009 - 12:59pm PT
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Hilarious!
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