3-pitch handcrack on Turret across from Incredible Hulk

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Mei

Trad climber
Bay Area
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 31, 2005 - 09:23pm PT
Sorry, I have to post a climbing related question on this forum.

This climb is mentioned somewhere on the Internet but I couldn't find any more information about it. Does anyone here know anything about this climb? Topos, descriptions (approach and descent) and pictures are welcome. Thanks in advance.
can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
Aug 31, 2005 - 09:38pm PT
check the new Mammoth guide book, I believe it's listed in there.
Mei

Trad climber
Bay Area
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 31, 2005 - 09:50pm PT
Ahh... Thanks. Being a Supertopo fan, I didn't know about that guidebook. Will check it out.
Mei

Trad climber
Bay Area
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 31, 2005 - 11:15pm PT
Just checked Mammoth Area Rock Climbing at REI, Incredible Hulk falls off the edge of the overview map. Nope, not in there.
can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
Aug 31, 2005 - 11:37pm PT
Is it the newest edition? While I don't own a copy, I was scoping out my partners copy last weekend. I didn't really look at the map, but the pic and route discription seemed enough for me.
dmalloy

Trad climber
eastside
Sep 1, 2005 - 12:16pm PT
first off....dude, the new Mammoth guidebook is great but lists nothing remotely close to the Hulk or any other backcountry routes.

next, mei, get yourself the Secor guidebook pronto. Not only does it have lots of information on routes and history, it is also great for reading/daydreaming/planning adventures for distant days.

As for The Turret, here's what it says, which probably isn't the route you're looking for -

East Face, III, 5.9 FA July 1994 by Bruce Bindner and Patrick Brennan. This route ascends a double-crack system on the right side of the east face. The first pitch ends on a ledge beneath the cracks. Overcome a roof and climb the cracks (5.9+). The second pitch up the cracks ends on a ledge. Next, go up a 5.9 groove and then move up and left over some ledges. Climb behind a tower (5.7) and then step across to some blocks in a right-facing corner. Climb the blocks and the corner past a roof to a gritty, off-width crack(5.8) ending on some sloping ledges. Continue up the right facing corner, but keep left of a chimney with some chockstones. Then move to the right to the north side of the Turret on some ledges. Climb the chimney between the pillars on top of the Turret. One 5.9 move past a bolt leads to the summit.

Tower Peak is another small, beautiful feature in the same area, and offers a four pitch 5.9 that seems quite a bit more straightforward, at least from the description.

Best of luck, if you head up there make sure to let the rest of us know about the climbing.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
Sep 1, 2005 - 12:50pm PT
mei, let me know if you need to get in touch with Bruce before the weekend.

good luck on the Hulk
Stephan

Trad climber
Zephyer Cove, NV
Sep 1, 2005 - 01:30pm PT
Moynier's book has info on some of the routes around the Turret and Outguard Spire as well. Bewarned, the routes are a bit more difficult and longer and than described.
Mei

Trad climber
Bay Area
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 6, 2005 - 02:21pm PT
I'm all about closure.

First off, dudes, thank yall for trying to help.

So, we found Climbing California's High Sierra (Moynier and Fiddler) at REI. It lists a few routes on Outguard Spire, where the descent requires a 70m rope. Found the Secor guidebook at Bridgeport ranger station. It has the same description about the Turret that dmalloy posted and points out that descent requires rappel (no mention of the length). But no route we read about remotely resembles a 3-pitch handcrack. Since we had only one 60m with us, it was decided that we should just forget about it. It worked very well as we had a very relaxed hike-in day.

There are indeed some really cool looking cracks on the formations across from Incredible Hulk. Lots of potential for those adventurous.

Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic
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