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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 18, 2009 - 05:56pm PT
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Best of the White Mountain cliffs? Some days I think so.
4th pitch of Wavelength (5.8):
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 18, 2009 - 05:57pm PT
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Photo by Cowpoke, 4th pitch of Children's Crusade (5.11a):
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L
climber
Right place, wrong century
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Jul 18, 2009 - 09:20pm PT
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Aaahhhhh... you're teasing us, aren't you, Chiloe? You're giving us a tiny hors d'œuvre here, and a one-shot hors d'œuvre there...
When are we getting the whole enchilada TR? That's what I want to know.
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MH2
climber
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Jul 19, 2009 - 01:08am PT
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Looks good, though the routes named gave me a sense of disorientation since neither appears in my most recent guide (Cote, '72), but I did find reassurance that, "Relatively little time has passed (approximately 10,000 years) since the close of the Pleistocene Epoch..."
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 19, 2009 - 08:48pm PT
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When are we getting the whole enchilada TR? That's what I want to know.
L is right, there was going to be a TR in here somewhere. But before I got 'round to that,
we had to spend another day in the hills.
MH2:
Looks good, though the routes named gave me a sense of disorientation since neither
appears in my most recent guide (Cote, '72)
Three-star routes both, vintage 1980. If you come back, you'll have to check 'em out.
Wavelength (5.8) is just about the funnest of the casual routes on the Whitehorse slabs.
Below, slightly runout 7-ish slabbing on the 2nd and 3rd pitch.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 19, 2009 - 09:07pm PT
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But Children's Crusade, that was going to be the TR. Cowpoke and I set out to climb that
from base to summit (not the usual way) last Friday.
Ed Webster's guidebook calls Children's Crusade "A tremendous adventure."
"The route ascends the faint, vertical dike up the center of the steep wall to the left of the
Ethereal Crack buttress. The Direct Finish to Children's Crusade breaks through the
final overhangs up a vertical dihedral in an outlandish position."
Here's the view from the base. The faint vertical dike shoots upwards from the right edge
of that overlap near the center of the picture. The outlandish position of the 4th pitch
occurs in those overhangs high above.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 19, 2009 - 11:11pm PT
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You guys did the fourth pitch of Children's Crusade?
(You's dirty Dawgs, ...you[s])
And you didn't call me first ???
I'm only like $700 away.....
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MH2
climber
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Jul 20, 2009 - 12:57am PT
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Looks better than good.
Also, I am a dike aficionado.
Maybe during a visit to the relatives back East
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 20, 2009 - 09:54am PT
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You guys did the fourth pitch of Children's Crusade?
(You's dirty Dawgs, ...you[s])
And you didn't call me first ???
I followed John Bouchard up that pitch once, back in 1986, and hadn't returned to it since.
This weekend, I finally had the energy to go up there again. Our conversation in the car went
like this:
"What are we gonna climb?"
"I've got this great plan. We're climbing Children's Crusade Direct. You're leading the crux!"
"Great!"
Cowpoke has a positive attitude towards life. Also, he hadn't been up the fourth pitch, and
for some reason seemed more concerned about the first, which I quickly said that I'd lead.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 20, 2009 - 10:17am PT
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Webster calls the first pitch "memorable 5.9." Talk to anyone who has led it, and they'll mention
The Mantle -- which comes on steep rock unnervingly high above your pro. That's one of three crux
sections on the pitch. Memorable indeed.
Here's Jim Dunn in EBs, 1980. You climb the first 30 feet with no pro. Once he reaches a fixed
pin he'll move right and up around the right edge of the small roof, to start the faint dike.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 20, 2009 - 10:22am PT
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Obviously Tarbuster, in 2007. The Mantle comes just before the second bolt in this picture. Tarbuster
is now above the third bolt, and confronting the third crux. The ominous black rock up and left from
the climber forms the Direct Finish, still two pitches higher.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 20, 2009 - 10:28am PT
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Another STer, Snakefoot, sandbagged into leading the same pitch on his visit to Whitehorse.
I think I've got a rogues gallery of ST denizens climbing various Whitehorse routes.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 20, 2009 - 10:31am PT
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But, getting back to this weekend, here is Cowpoke, glad to have all that "memorable 5.9" below him.
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tradchick
Trad climber
White Mountains
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Jul 20, 2009 - 11:18am PT
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Nice job getting that 4th pitch done!!
Childrens Crusade is one of my favorites on Whitehorse. I tried to follow the Direct Finish several years ago, as a new climber with about 3 months of experience. I couldn't pull thru those overlaps, so the leader had to clean the route on his way down. It'd be fun to try it now.
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cowpoke
climber
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Jul 20, 2009 - 01:25pm PT
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wait, wait: I wanna picture of me leading that 1st pitch, too.
First did the usual crusade (1st two pitches only) about 9 years ago...up and down climbed that mantle move 4 or 5 times until the sun went behind some clouds and, whew, felt like I barely stuck it.
Don't know if you can tell, but I'm actually trying to fiddle in some gear in that 5.7 "approach" to the climbing...needless to say, didn't work = darn!
So, yeah, I was delighted when Larry said he would lead it!
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L
climber
The Paleozoic rift of the Caradoc drift
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Jul 20, 2009 - 02:44pm PT
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"Don't know if you can tell, but I'm actually trying to fiddle in some gear in that 5.7 "approach" to the climbing..."
LOL Cowpoke--I've felt like that on more "approaches" than I care to remember. Those lines are beautiful...and I'm sure Chiloe's excellent photography makes them look much more foot-friendly than they actually are.
Nice pix, you two.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Jul 20, 2009 - 03:39pm PT
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some sweet looking routes.
Seems like a long ways to get that first bolt! I can see why you'd try to get some gear in.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 20, 2009 - 06:46pm PT
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Seems like a long ways to get that first bolt!
I always think so. It's not hard, 5.7-ish, but diagonal and off-balance, definitely a walk through
the no-falling zone.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 20, 2009 - 06:50pm PT
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Pitch 2 has good rock and the same grade as the first, 5.9, but only one crux and not nearly so
"memorable." I think only a fraction of the parties climbing P1 continue through P2 as well.
Eric (Cowpoke) led through nicely, past the reachy overlap crux and wandering tradlands above.
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snakefoot
climber
cali
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Jul 20, 2009 - 11:15pm PT
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bump for the whites, solid granite, reminded me of home.
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