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| Messages 1 - 17 of total 17 in this topic |
Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 16, 2009 - 11:20pm PT
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Why was the anchor on the last pitch moved/pitch extended rather than leaving the anchor in place and adding a new pitch? Was the old anchor a retro? It was a bit arbitrary. Why add a bolt by the crack on the old route?
FYI to other suitors of this favorite...one rope no longer gets you down.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Jun 16, 2009 - 11:30pm PT
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Sounds like someone had quasi-epical issues? Wassup?\\
I've been lookin' at that route. I guess that's why you ask, huh?
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 16, 2009 - 11:41pm PT
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Not an epic since I wasn't the one that had to downclimb the last pitch due to unforseen rope shortage.
Enjoy, Bluering. IMO, it's one of the best longer trips off the ground below the 120/140 jct. (Start on Flatus or Stone Groove to avoid the jungle start.) Full winter sun.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jun 16, 2009 - 11:50pm PT
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The bolts on the lower part of the route where you break left from Flatus looked new. I didn't climb the Rorp but flatus gave me a peak to a cool looking climb.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Jun 16, 2009 - 11:52pm PT
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Yeah, but you're a freak, mucci!
I'm not implying you're a puss, Melissa, just sayin'!
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 17, 2009 - 12:04am PT
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Mucci, where do you mean? After p2 of Flatus there are new lead bolts? I haven't gone that way for a long time and have a bad memory besides. We went up from Stone Groove yesterday, and apart from a fun, albeit very cloase by bolted face variation to the right of the RORP, I didn't see other lead bolts before the end. (Wasn't looking till we descended though, either.)
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jun 17, 2009 - 01:10am PT
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I know some folks have been putting new lines up there.
Last time I was there (several years ago) there was some kind of dicey anchor situation near or at the top if memory serves (which is also dicey)
Peace
Karl
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Jun 17, 2009 - 02:48am PT
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Here's the replacement that Karin and I did in Feb. '07, plus our observations, so hopefully it will help you figure out what has gone on since then.
 anchor at the base of the crux chimney-to-double-offwidth pitch (the "5.7 ow" pitch in the Reid guide): replaced one bolt, other already good
anchor at the top, which by the Reid topo was actually on the lower left of the final AA circle (shown as upper right) - this was a 3-bolt anchor: replaced one bolt, removed extra bolt, 3rd bolt already good.
anchor at the top of the bolted pitch off the left side of p2 of Flatus (i.e. the last rappel station for the RORP) - replaced one bolt, other already good.
We saw the bolted line to the right of the lower part of the upper pitches. Also, there was a single new bolt about 20' above the top belay station. It was obvious that the anchor for Magical Mystery Tour (about 40' left and up from the top anchor) was old rusty bolts.
As of Feb '07 there were no bolts near any cracks (at least not that we saw, and I'm pretty good about spotting bolts, but on the other hand I've been known to get crack tunnel vision). We did the left variation to the last pitch (which is actually a crack to groove to face, definitely a bit heads up), so if it was on the right crack we would have missed it.
We rappelled the upper pitches with a single 70m rope to our 2nd rope which we'd left at the initial bolted belay on the upper part of the RORP (that bolted belay is where the tree used to be at the first AA circle next to a tree with 140' rap next to it), then rapped with 2 ropes twice to the ground.
One final note - there was an old two-1/4" bolt anchor on the cracks about 30' left of the final rap station/top of the Flatus-neighboring bolted route. These are the dirty cracks which almost connect to Lunatic Fringe, and we assumed were the same vintage/route as the unnamed A3 aid route shown in the topo (which you can spot old 1/4" bolts/rivets on just right of the ledge at the start of the 5.10 on the Fringe).
Hope that helps!
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jun 17, 2009 - 02:55am PT
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AS I look at the topo the bolts I saw were heading I think INTO the rorp, they were newer and probably part of a variation or other route all together. I am sure that they are not part of the Rorp proper but I saw them and then looked up and saw the start of the rorp (or so I think). I asked a regular at reed's and he didn't seem surprised that they were in the area with all of the new routing.
Anybody know what line comes up between LF and Flatus? There are anchors shown in the topo (140ft) right in the line of the bolts I saw. Maybe a Rorp Direct?
Edit: Greg cleared alot up. I am pretty sure a line went up to the anchors off left of p2 of Flatus, possibly higher gaining the rorp's upper pitches. Looked like some sporty face but modestly bolted.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Jun 17, 2009 - 03:23am PT
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Hey mucci, the first bolt on that line off of Flatus is a 1/4" with a Leeper hanger still, right? Other than that all those bolts are modern. That route has been there a while, I'm pretty sure I remember seeing those bolts rapping from the RORP around '95 or so.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jun 17, 2009 - 03:31am PT
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> I am pretty sure a line went up to the anchors off left of p2 of Flatus, possibly higher gaining the rorp's upper pitches. Looked like some sporty face but modestly bolted.
Yes, it's not too hard or runout - about 5.8. After the anchors, it goes up a hand crack corner which had some munge but looks cleaner now. This joins RORP at its left/downwards traverse. I don't know the route name or FA info.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jun 17, 2009 - 01:30pm PT
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Yeah Greg/ Clint that's the line. It looks really good, possibly a better start to the Rorp from what I saw.
Thanks for the info!
Greg all I saw were new bolts, but don't know for sure where it starts/ends etc. There is alot of space in that area.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 17, 2009 - 01:38pm PT
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Gable et al did a continuation to Beyond the Fringe IIRC. The bolts at the end of the RORP didn't seem like his style.
Greg, thanks for rebolting and info. The anchor situation and the changes at the end of the route post-date your rebolting.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jun 17, 2009 - 01:50pm PT
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Definaltely not a Gable route! Beyond Lunacy goes all the way to the top traversing left under the massive roof just below the summit.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Jun 17, 2009 - 01:58pm PT
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So how much further up is the new anchor on the top? Did they completely remove the old anchor? Is it face climbing up those knobs - looked like it might get harder than 5.7 not all that far above the old station?
And where was the bolt added along a crack?
Thanks for the heads-up about the rope length Melissa, I would have expected a single 70m to work for the upper raps since it did 2 years ago.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 17, 2009 - 02:35pm PT
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A single 60 used to do the job. The new anchor was a good 50 ft. further. Magical Mystery Tour is probably closer, but needs replacing unless it's been done in recent years. The new bolt was near where the crack ended and you needed to do a slabby move or few before getting to the old anchor. The old anchor is now one pro bolt on the extended pitch (up the knobs).
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Jun 17, 2009 - 02:44pm PT
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Blatant retrobolt then, the slabby moves at the top of the groove/crack were heads up, not quite runout, but not well protected either.
I hope they removed the old 3/8" bolt at the anchor (which was probably beginning to rust) and not the new stainless one that I drilled.
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| Messages 1 - 17 of total 17 in this topic |
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