Fixed Lines (Heart) Conditions

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Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic
dirhk

Trad climber
Topic Author's Original Post - May 27, 2009 - 03:07pm PT
If you know how they look it would be nice to share the info.


WBraun

climber
May 27, 2009 - 03:08pm PT
They look like ropes.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
a greasy pinscar near you
May 27, 2009 - 03:11pm PT
We could just run an ongoing thread with the following form--


Check one:

a) horrifying sun-baked pencil
b) coreshot museum
c) vast assortment of lines of various vintages and diameters
d) no lines
Ottawa Doug

Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
May 27, 2009 - 03:21pm PT
That was sweet Werner.

: )
ajh

climber
sac
May 27, 2009 - 10:28pm PT
The Heart ropes are all super good. More than one line on several pitches. All bomber. Plus a line to Mammoth.
Very convenient.

bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
May 27, 2009 - 10:42pm PT
I don't aid climb, but isn't climbing someone else's fixed lines just climbing a rope ladder and not climbing at all?

This has intrigued me for some time. Isn't that missing part of the route?
Captain...or Skully

Social climber
North of the Owyhees
May 27, 2009 - 11:24pm PT
Yeah, CUT 'em DOWN.
Unless it's your line, or have special permission, KEEP OFF.
Otherwise you're just a hack, a chump.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
May 27, 2009 - 11:36pm PT
This has been discussed here in the past, although it's hard to search for the best explanations of the different views. Karl has explained it best in the past.

In recent years there has tended to be a set of fixed ropes left there from late spring through fall. This allows people to do the Free Blast without hauling 2-3 extra ropes so they can get back to Heart. It also reduces the number of multiple ropes fixed to Heart. When there are many sets of ropes fixed to Heart, with people throwing their extra ropes off as they commit to the wall, there have been close calls from falling ropes, hung up ropes, the wrong ropes thrown off, and congestion at the anchor points. Technically they are "abandoned property" after 24 hours and could be removed at any time.

Having semipermanent ropes fixed does create an opportunity for some people to jug the lines without having climbed to Heart themselves. It also lets some people skip climbing the Free Blast for the nth time. The fixed lines are not maintained by anyone in particular, so use at your own risk (inspect when rapping down from Mammoth/Heart). Ideally, the fixed lines should leave the lowest rap rings free on each anchor so that people can rappel with their own ropes. But often the lines get tied into those rings and people end up rapping the fixed lines instead of their own ropes. Last spring, we did a combo rap strategy, where I belayed my partner as he rapped a fixed line; if it was OK, then I rapped it after him, unbelayed.
Captain...or Skully

Social climber
North of the Owyhees
May 27, 2009 - 11:40pm PT
A falling rope can't hurt much.......If you're goin' on El Cap anyway, don'tcha expect some scars?
Chicks dig scars.
Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic
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