early season Tuolumne Meadows routes

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Messages 1 - 8 of total 8 in this topic
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Topic Author's Original Post - May 21, 2009 - 02:24am PT
I am laying out the new edition of Greg Barnes' Tuolumne Meadows Supertopo book right now (should have the eBook done in under a month... print book in 2-3 months)

with tioga pass opening and alll...

thought i would post what routes are good in early season. However, these are just the routes that are good to climb in early season. some of them, like cathedral peak, will still have sloppy or even snowy approaches. maybe you guys can chime in what routes you can easily approach AND climb early season

here is a list of Tuolumne Early season crags and cliffs

Bunny Slopes
Canopy World
Daff Dome South Flank
Dike Dome
Drug Dome base
East Cottage Dome
Galen's Crack
Low Profile Dome
Mountaineer's Dome base
Murphy Creek
Olmsted Canyon
Pothole Dome
Puppy Dome
Western Front
Wind Tunnel
Cathedral Peak
Daff Dome
Doda Dome
Dozier Dome
Drug Dome
Eichorn's Pinnacle
Fairview Dome
Harlequin Dome
Lamb Dome
Lembert Dome
Matthes Crest
Mountaineer's Dome
Phobos Deimos Cliff
Pywiack Dome
Stately Pleasure Dome
West Cottage Dome
HighDesertDJ

Trad climber
Arid-zona
May 21, 2009 - 02:36am PT
Fairview dome is great so long as you don't mind kick-stepping up 20 or 30 feet of snow in your climbing shoes heh.
Greg Barnes

climber
May 21, 2009 - 02:36am PT
There's early season, and then there's really early season.

Some of those are wet really early season - Dozier is mostly a waterfall for instance. The Bunny Slopes can be wet too. Low Profile (particularly Golfer's) can be wet. Murphy can be boggy/flooded crossing from the trail to the crag side of the creek. Daff can have a snowbank along the West Crack approach ledge. The snowbank and running water on the Regular Route can be annoying (especially if you drop something and have to tunnel under the snowbank face-first with freezing water running down your back...not that I would know or anything, ahem ahem...).

edit - we don't cover all the crags in the Supertopo, so some obvious early-season crags such as The Shark are not in the list...
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
May 21, 2009 - 04:46am PT
> Drug Dome

Brrrrrrr!
mongrel

Trad climber
Truckee, CA
May 21, 2009 - 11:10am PT
I'd urge people to minimize early or very-early season trips that entail very much walking on really soggy soils or crossings (e.g., Murphy Crk). Trails and soils are really fragile when they're that wet, and with the extremely short growing season at the altitude of Tuolumne, they just don't recover. Best to let them dry out some to minimize damage (same principle as for mountain biking). There are plenty of places to go with almost entirely rocky or at least dry approaches. All that said, once you're on the hoof, just be mindful of not churning up wet soils too much and have a great time!
rhyang

climber
SJC
May 21, 2009 - 11:10am PT
Thanks for this list. Haven't climbed in Tuolumne earlier than mid-July in the past, so I don't know what is or isn't climbable .. though Stately Pleasure seems obvious, being south facing.

I'm also interested in the status of -

Holdless Horror (Dozier)
NW Books (Lembert)
Zee Tree (Pywiack)
Greg Barnes

climber
May 21, 2009 - 11:50am PT
Clint, here's Memorial Day weekend 2008 at Drug dome:

New route - Stemulant 5.10a (first half of which is the easy lower part of the right hand start of Sunshine, which heads off to the left about halfway from the climber to the bottom edge of the picture):


The base area, in the sun with shade from big trees (and later thunderheads):



rhyang, Holdless Horror will be wet; NW Books will be wet; Zee Tree will be fine (unless there is snow on top and you see water streaks).


Mongrel has a great message, don't tromp through the wet stuff. Murphy Creek will have big pools that you might not be able to cross anyway, so that should get ditched from the list.
JesseM

Social climber
Yosemite
May 21, 2009 - 03:34pm PT
Thanks for that message Mongrel. Tromping through the soggy soils definitely leaves noticeable impacts.

If you walk around the marshy area Olmstead Canyon can be really great this time of year. I'm headed up tomorrow to have a look/climb a bit. I'll let folks know what I see.

Jesse
Yosemite Climbing Ranger
Messages 1 - 8 of total 8 in this topic
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