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schwortz
Social climber
davis, ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 28, 2009 - 06:04pm PT
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i'm looking for some new boots and wondering what everyone is wearing these days
i've been climbing in old salomon super mountain 9s which are cold, heavy by modern standards, and actually a half-size or so too small for me...
i'm thinking of picking up something like nepal evos, baturas, phantom lites or phantom 6000s, or one of those kayland jobbies...
any thoughts? i have cold feet (hence batura or 6000), and would like one boot for everything (everything now being sierras and cascades alpine routes and peakbagging, the random vertical ice day here and there if i'm lucky and an occasional trip to chamonix in summer or something like that)
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Scared Silly
Trad climber
UT
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Mar 28, 2009 - 06:16pm PT
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You list off most of the big names. I had a pair of the Bautra. Did not quite fit right and the gaiter was a bit too tight for my tastes. A crampon would easy rip into it. However, many people like them. I have used the Scarpa Phantom 8000s and liked them. I have also tried on the Kaylands. I like them as well but they need a bit of refinement when compared to the Scarpas. I too suffer from cold toes but the new singles are as warm as some of the old doubles if not warmer. I still have not updated my boots yet leaning towards the Scarpas.
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Hanging Spoons
Trad climber
The Northeast
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Mar 28, 2009 - 06:17pm PT
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I don't think that one boot can adequately cover the range of stuff that you're looking to do. I think that a lighter three season boot and a warmer winter boot would be your best bet (unless you don't plan to do much vertical ice at all, or only climb when it's warm).
That being said, I can't say enough good things about the pair of Kayland Multitractions I've been wearing for the last year and a half. The Multitractions plus some Superfeet insoles fit my foot better than any boot I've ever worn, and they have held up great so far. Kayland doesn't make them anymore, but they make a couple of similar boots like the Apex Rock and the MXT.
Or you could be like everyone else and buy some Sportiva Trango S EVOs. They just never seem to fit me quite right though.
Edit: I reread your post and it looks like you want something a bit warmer. Go for the Kayland M11+. Sick boot.
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RDB
Trad climber
Iss WA
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Mar 28, 2009 - 06:20pm PT
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I have been going through the entire Sportiva line over the last 2 years. Best all around boot imo is the Nepal Evo. Almost as warm if not as warm as my Batura and a much better fit and support. New Sportiva Baruntse has some promise as a lwt dbl. Silver bullet Trango is almost perfect for general use and very warm and I think the warmest Trango and up there with the Batura when used with a knee length gaiter. New Trango Prime way over rated.
All fit slightly differently.
Kaylands are a great boot for my feet...looking at the 6001 (Batura clone) myself. But Kaylands are very stiffffff but nice rocker to help out. No matter what you like (I like the Batura but they don't fit me well) it is the fit that makes the boot.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Mar 29, 2009 - 01:17pm PT
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I really like Scarpa.
I'm wearing an older pair of Cerro Torre's that are insulated.
Great fit, and if not warm enough, they have double models
(I can't think of the model name), and Scarpa wears like
iron. I've heard mixed comments on the Kayland and
La Sportiva. Good luck!
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Scott Cole
Trad climber
Jackson, WY^
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Mar 29, 2009 - 01:35pm PT
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Super Guides
Hablers
The new boots are light, but nothing last like leather.
Scole
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TYeary
climber
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Mar 29, 2009 - 01:41pm PT
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Your best boot is the one that gives you the best fit. Try as many on as you can. I know this is probmatic these days.
I use La Sportiva Spantiks for high and cold( ie. Andes) and a pair of La Sportiva K-4 's for everything else mountain boot wise. Maybe not the best boots out there, but the best fit for me. Fit is everything when you live in them for days at a time.
Tony
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marv
Mountain climber
Bay Area
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I wear the Sportiva Trango (silver bullet model) for just about everything when the temp is no lower than mid-teens (Fahrenheit). For single-digit temps (again, Fahr.), I wear the Sportiva Spantik.
I'm in the market for an alpine/ice/mixed boot in between these two, looking closely at the Batura. Can anyone comment on the sizing? I'm a 43 in the Trango, 44 in the Spantik.
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jbaker
Trad climber
Redwood City, CA
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I've been wearing the La Sportiva Trango S Evos for the last few years, and have been really happy with them. The La Sportiva last fits my foot really well. They're light and mine have been exceptionally dry. A friend complains that hers leak. They definitely don't wear as well as leather boots, but the wear isn't too bad. My wife has the Scarpa doppleganger and is really happy with them.
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pissed
Trad climber
Lake Placid NY and Scranton PA
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I would check out Mammut boots - they don't have something like the 6000 but their boots for peakbagging, alpine climbing, and vertical ice are great. Just my opinion.
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Get hold of Todd Gordon, he's selling Bridwell boots and Jim's got some new boots for a great price, would be helping out Jim as well.
Peace
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pud
climber
Sportbikeville
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LaSportiva Makalu
Moderate use for going on 8 years and they look great and are cooooomfy.
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Tradmedic
Ice climber
Thunder Bay, Ontario
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Nov 10, 2010 - 10:41am PT
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It's already that time of year around here. Bring on the ice gear with rock pro! My old Salomon Pro-ice boots are starting to fall apart (hopefully not bad enough that a good cobbler can't get another year or two out of 'em). I have really enjoyed their lightness, and have been warm enough for all but the coldest of days.
Nevertheless, it's time to get another pair and lighten the workload. I like and am open to a good single insulated leather boot (L.S. Nepal Evos, or Scarpa Mont Blanc), I'd also be willing to consider the Mammut Mamook thermos, but don't know anyone who's used them. Lastly, I'd love to hear some feedback on the LS Baruntse double boots and how they handle predominantly WI3-5.
Thanks folks
edit: I realize it ultimately comes down to what fits my foot best, and that I'm gunna die. I figure I could benefit from some opinions before (I buy or die).
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sportcamper
Trad climber
NEW HAMPSHIRE
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Nov 10, 2010 - 10:55am PT
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again, everyones foot is so different...
if your foot isn't TOO wide, the nepal evos are amazing, and do most everything well. combine it with a supergaiter, and your set for long multiday outings as well. They have served me extremely well here in NH whether on vertical ice, or 2-3 day ridge traverses. bulletproof.
james.
edit: sewellymon- Limmers are great for hiking/backpacking. I live next door(literally) to their boot shop. great folks.
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Nov 10, 2010 - 10:59am PT
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Nobody uses boots anymore, trail runners is the thing.
Hey, Sewellymon, I got a pair of Mountain Lites sitting under my desk!
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Tradmedic
Ice climber
Thunder Bay, Ontario
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Nov 10, 2010 - 11:02am PT
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Thanks sportcamper. The nepals seem to be 'de rigeur' these days, they're pretty much all I can get locally. It does limit the feedback I can find on other boots and brands. I suppose I'm fishing for thoughts on the mammut boots, Scarpas, and the LS baruntse boots. I climb mostly ice, with the occaisional mountain romp.
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aa-lex
climber
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Nov 10, 2010 - 12:09pm PT
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I have the trango silver bullet boot. As far as fit goes - for me it's only ok (I have wide fore foot, narrow heel, and low volume foot). There really isn't a good heel lock. I end up taping up and am good to go. If you have narrow, or shallow, heels I might suggest against the Trango Ex Evo. That said, the boot climbs extremely well.
I think the Nepal Evo has an all around better fit than any of the Trangos. The Scarpa equivalent to the trango has a much better heel for those of us with narrow heels. Don't have any experience with the batura or phantom 6000.
But as stated above, the bottom line is to try as many on as you can and get the one that fits the best. But if I had to pick one to suggest (considering what you wanna climb) it would be the Nepal - warm, good fit for most feet, and supposedly climbs very well.
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franky
Trad climber
Ford Pickup Truck, North America
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Nov 10, 2010 - 12:16pm PT
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Baturas seem sweet. I've had partners hike 4000vert and and 6 miles in them starting in gravel and ending in snow. I wear scarpa omegas which are fantastic for doubles, lighter than nepal evos and warmer, and double. Those scarpas phantoms look sweet too.
Check Sierra Trading Post, the often have good mountain boots on big sale... Just order a bunch of sizes and send some back. You won't find a place to try on mountain boots anywhere near you anyway. No stores in California sell them.
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aa-lex
climber
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Nov 10, 2010 - 12:26pm PT
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Forgot about the Scarpa Omegas! That boot actually seems really good. Everyone I've talked to that had it really liked it. Worth checking out in my opinion. And I think a lot cheaper than many other sportivas and scarpas.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Nov 10, 2010 - 12:42pm PT
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I got nepal evos because they are made of leather
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