Rain jacket for wall climbing?

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Gunkie

climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 7, 2005 - 08:14am PT
My trusty old Patagonia rain jacket from the mid-1990's that has survived a number of wall routes has finally broken down. I was un clogging a yard drain/sump during a thunderstorm last night when I realized that my jacket was soaking up water [not beading] and I was getting wet underneath.

Since I'm leaving for the valley a week from Sunday, I have a small amount of time to purchase a new rain jacket. Personally, I like good Gore-Tex type of jackets [breathable] and I find they work pretty well as long as I sit out a storm and don't try to climb or rap out. With that said, I am open to any suggestions.

Any recommendations?

Thanks!
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Jul 7, 2005 - 10:45am PT
Here is your Dr. Piton Big Wall Tip of the Day:

When it comes to waterproof-breathable fabrics, like rain jackets and rain pants, learn how to use an IRON!

If you set your iron on medium heat [about 5 out of 8] and set the steam on low [about one out of three] you can often restore the repellancy of your rain gear quite easily.

The steps are as follows:

1. Wash your Gore-tex stuff in something like Sport Wash, designed for the purpose

2. Rinse it - at least twice

3. Tumble it dry

4. Iron it as per above

5. Spray it with a compound specifically designed for restoring the repellancy on waterproof-breathable fabrics, then let it dry. I like the Scotch-Guard stuff in the aerosal can, but there are plenty. I don't like the stuff you put right in the wash water, as I prefer to spray it directly on the surfaces I want to restore

6. Iron it as per above

7. TEST IT to make sure it really IS waterproof!

It's the ironing, dude, that really brings out the beading on the fabric. Do this once every year or two, and your raincoat will bead like new. It is probable that your raincoat might not be as knackered as you think, and following these steps will let you know for a cost of about ten or fifteen bucks, which is about $300 less than the alternative.

It's also possible that your raincoat really IS knackered - and that you'll need to buy a new one - but try this first and see. Let us know, eh?

Cheers,

The Doc
dirtineye

Trad climber
the south
Jul 7, 2005 - 11:01am PT
thanks pete.
Gunkie

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 7, 2005 - 11:29am PT
'Pass the Pitons' Pete & elcapfool,

Thanks for the tips. I'll try following the PTPP dictum to see if that works. If it does, I'll owe you some amount of beer. And Mike, I feel too guilty to attempt a return of the jacket. It has worked like a champ for about 10 years. Had it failed in two or three or four years, I'd return it in a heartbeat. But Patagonia is a great organization with regards to standing behind their hardcore gear.

Thanks again!
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Jul 7, 2005 - 11:44am PT
"I'll try following the PTPP dictum to see if that works. If it does, I'll owe you some amount of beer...."

Bwah-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha!!! That would be my second score of "jacket beer" this year. I found this really nice Goretex jacket at the base, and left a note at Camp 4. I returned it to the owner - who chased me down while we were driving - and who returned the favour with a very timely contribution to the Dr. Piton Beer Account. I even asked that he provide half the stipend in Beck's beer for Tom, since it's a partnership and all.

Another chap [whose name I have sadly forgotten] brought me a bunch more, just to say thanks for the big wall tips I have written over the years. So many thanks to all!

"I had the same issue, so I returned the jacket. Patagonia gave me $310 credit for my 12-yo jacket. I got a new Pat. jacket. Patagonia stands by their gear."

Now the above really IS the Better Way!

Hollyclimber tells me it's a little known fact that you can return The North Face sleeping bags and duvets for "restuffing" and "refluffing" at no charge. My 15-year-old down bags could probably use a bit.

I am still, however, holding onto my 1988-vintage 3/4-length Ultralite Thermarest with its lifetime guarantee. The way you fix these things when they leak is to take 'em into the bathtub with you - fully inflated, just like Eva the Party Sheep {sigh} - and watch and listen for the skein of bubbles. Mark the hole with a circle of waterproof ink. A blob of Seam Grip brand seam sealer will repair it permanently after about eight hours' drying time. Cover the dried Seam Grip with a bit of talcum powder, and you're good to roll.

One day, when I *finally* can't fix the thing - which still hasn't happened - I will return it to Thermarest with the following testimonial:

"Back in 1988, I bought my Thermarest for my first ascent of El Cap. * nights on the Big Stone and routes later it has finally given up the ghost, though it took literally thousands of miles paddling through Ontario's northland to finish off the job.....please include a few six-packs with the new Thermarest....

Cheers, Pete"


*, - currently 251,27
Gunkie

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 7, 2005 - 05:20pm PT
"Too guilty"? Hmm...

I happily pay full price for good gear like Patagonia's


Maybe because I didn't pay full price? I got it on fire sale when a local retailer was rolling up shop. $400 jacket for $90. With that said, I don't have time to pursue the return alternative before my Yo trip. But, I will consider contacting Patagonia after the trip. Thanks and nice pic... but, baby blue?
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