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MisterE
Trad climber
One Place or Another
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 10, 2009 - 04:52am PT
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Almost to flat ground after a long day, a moment of relaxation sends MisterE's feet Fred Flintstoning in useless compensation as his face plummets towards the ever-popular 'Spanish Bayonet" plant, noted for its , well...bayonet-like qualities.
The objective , lifted off of the reliable Mountain Project:
Description
The Tomahawk is a two pitch tower, Second pitch is worth the walk, very cool. Thin to small hands to OW to hands to very cool roof move, use slings and watch your rope drag and you can cruise all the way to the summit for a good gear anchor.
First pitch is thought provoking Sedona face climbing past three bolts two old and rust one new and shiney! Build an anchor on the spacious ledge. Very cool rap off the back off of good anchors 2x60m to the ground, bummer to have to carry two ropes but unless you want to engage in Bandaloupe shenanigans to try to get to some anchors off way off the rappellers left you gotta have em.! Speaking of lower anchors on the back side two routes are over here in the shade, one small hands to fingers and the other some sort of bolted weirdness, both to bolted anchors. Yippee
If you're moving quick you could hammer out Tomahawk, cruise back down to the drainage and scamper up Alladins lamp.
You don't want to hear the directions - let me explain why:
8 AM: we’re banging along Dry Creek Road, which is WAY different than the PAVED Dry Creek Road we just left,
(true story, kinda)
“But the reality is, Man, we have to, like differentiate for the guide, Man! It’s Forest Service Road 152C ”
“Dood, it is SO STILL Dry Creek Road!”
Say, Man, how should we distinguish “Forest Service Road? Should it be FS152C? or the friendlier but more confusing FSR152C?“
“Dood, It’s Forest Road! F-TO-THE-R one-fiddy too, see?”
…and so on.
Brins mesa Trail.
It has such a wash-to-the-mesa-nice-and-easy sound. We were following some guide from God-knows-when as we struck upon the trail for some nice scenery in a clean wash for a little jaunt:
Here we are, having a nice little hike, 2 hours later:
And later on in the week:
By the following Thursday we had it pretty sussed:
The end of the wash was at hand, and we had at least one happy camper:
But the weekend came, and with it the tourists, damn them:
oh, wait - that's my partner, hehe...
"I said, Hey babe, take a walk in the wild wash..."
I SAID: HEY DAVE!!! TAKE A WALK in the wild wash!!
And the climber girls say:
"doo-de-doo-de-doo-de-doot-de-dootn-de"
It's the boosh madness, It beats you down (no, not me, Sir)
He will leave me for dead in the wastelands! That is his plan!
A man sees strange things in the desert - things that don't belong, one would think, oh, hehe, oh:
You're not like the others, you like the same things I DO!!!111
Bush whacking!!!
Insipid, brutal approaches!!!
to be continued...
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Mar 10, 2009 - 05:08am PT
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hey there mr E... say, this is really nice! ... i have only seen two pics download though.. the writeup looks really neat too...
will comme back and see more... got to go to sleep...
was falling asleep actually...
NOT, that it is boring, mind you... :)
*just a late night hour, issue.... :)
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Place or Another
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 10, 2009 - 05:12am PT
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Hey, there...say...wow...Hunter was right - those pineal glands work pretty good!
Where was I - Oh, yeah
The wash ends and arbor-birthing begins.
I would have felt violated if it hadn't been so long since I got touched there without soap.
Lord help us, the Holy Grail (and it's Grailettes, apparently)
As we get closer, the terrain actually gains some elevation, and we sink into some Dante circle of Hellish approach ( OK, maybe it's only like zero or one)
Finally we reach this massive, towering, rigid, clean spire (I didn't say turgid, did I), and locate the classic ".11-" line:
I opt for the first pitch, called 5.9-
You make the call
to be continued...
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Place or Another
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 10, 2009 - 05:42am PT
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So, no sh#t, there I was...
As the Doctor fled up the laser-cut corner (waita minute! This part didn't suck!?)
zzzz
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Mar 10, 2009 - 05:54am PT
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Interesting stuff, I am esp intrigued by the narrative style.
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perswig
climber
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Mar 10, 2009 - 06:54am PT
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When your own TR bores you, you got trouble.
Intro, crescendo, climax, denouement - get on with it, man!
(Or, do it your way. We've got nothing but time, and the pics and chatter are way good.)
Dale
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Mar 10, 2009 - 11:07am PT
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Bump. Wait, where am I...ok, yeah, *BUMP*
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justthemaid
climber
Los Angeles
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Mar 10, 2009 - 12:49pm PT
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You do realize...We're all waiting on pins and needles for the video of the bayonet face-plant.
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Place or Another
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 10, 2009 - 01:25pm PT
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I follow up the nice thin hands corner to the pod, the tricky bulge and out the roof above. We both thought it felt like .11b, and we hang out on the summit for a bit
enjoying the view (linked cuz it's huge)
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=803515
and we played around on some of the other routes on this fine formation.
Looking back at the end of the day:
The first 10 minutes of the descent is the worst (or the last 20 on the way in), and I must have been tired from the day, cuz I kept slipping and dislodging rocks. I went fully onto my pack at one point - unhurt I laughed it off.
Then, about 20 steps from the slickrock patch, I let down my guard, thinking I was home free.
Big mistake.
Without warning, my feet went out from under me, THE WRONG WAY, and my face was flying towards a good-sized spanish bayonet.
At the last possibile instant, I realized I was about to lose at least one eye, I snapped my head to the side and felt a blinding pain in my ear.
David runs back as I get up, bleeding from my ear, chin and hand. I am totally freaked out at this point, but still manage to dig my first aid kit out (which I always carry). I get some water and clean myself up, and have Dave assess the damage. I am bleeding out of my right ear and another puncture wound just above the ear (right in line with my eyes, BTW), and have another that has gone into my chin and through the lower lip (I can feel it with my tongue). One more through a finger, but I am otherwise unscathed. No scratches,bruises, just the involuntary piercings.
We make it out without further events, building some cairns to mark the way, and bounce our way back out Dry Creek Road
"No, Man, we're gonna call it FR152C, OK?"
"OK, OK - but it says Dry Creek Road on the sign, just sayin'..."
Edit: I am feeling OK today - my ear still hurts, but my hearing seems to be unaffected. I got very lucky.
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Mar 10, 2009 - 01:30pm PT
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!!!Zoinks!!!
Catlike reflexes + the Doctor + werewolfian regenerative healing powers = hope your ok dude.
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Manny
Social climber
tempe
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Mar 10, 2009 - 04:52pm PT
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Sucks about the bayonet, but I can't wait to check out the scars!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Mar 10, 2009 - 05:06pm PT
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Since the holes have already been drilled, you should think about getting some good metal into them. Lip rings are almost passe now, but a chin/lip chain would be totally rabid.
Dunno about the one above the ear, though. Does it just go straight in, or is there also an exit?
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the bubba
Boulder climber
flagstaff
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Mar 10, 2009 - 05:53pm PT
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c'mon man, you gotta give up a photo of your face!
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Prod
Trad climber
A place w/o Avitars apparently
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Mar 10, 2009 - 07:00pm PT
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Wish I was getting it done....
Nice job guys.
Say hey to the Doc.
Prod.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Mar 10, 2009 - 07:01pm PT
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invalid without gore pics.
j/k
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Mar 10, 2009 - 07:08pm PT
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The crux must be that lazer-cut corner, eh? Doesn't look easy.
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the bubba
Boulder climber
flagstaff
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Mar 10, 2009 - 07:21pm PT
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primitive face-piercing dab.
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Place or Another
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 10, 2009 - 08:23pm PT
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You guys! puncture wounds aren't much to look at, really:
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Mar 10, 2009 - 08:33pm PT
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Don't get tattooed next time out.
How would that work?
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Mar 10, 2009 - 11:37pm PT
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Great TR , Glad you didn't get the "poker" in the eyehole. You guys walked how long to climb 2, Albeit cool and interesting, pitches? Sh#t on US395 you walk about 3 hours and get to climb a few thousand feet. You Desert rats are a rare breede. I'm gonna go practice in case Burining Barn ever does a reunion tour. Love and hugs and I sure miss the Docs Majic hands, I might just buy him a ticket up North to snap me back together.
Yo E we're working about 1.7 days a week but it 's almost keeping food on the table take care bro...
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