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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 14, 2009 - 12:23am PT
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Lengthy trip report at:
http://colinhaley.blogspot.com/
Anyone been on it to put this into perspective? Gagner? Jello? Bldrjc?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jan 14, 2009 - 01:30am PT
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I hope this doesn't sound negative, but it seems like the solo was something like a "Plan C" to salvage something more out of his trip after being able to do nothing for a month to bad weather. It wasn't something he planned in advance, and he would have climbed with his partner if his partner had not already left. It didn't sound like he enjoyed it very much. It looks like a great route, so that seems unfortunate.
I imagine he had bigger plans with Rolo, but never got to try them because of the weather. That sounds pretty frustrating. I'm glad Patagonia is way too hard for me - waiting a month for the weather to improve seems like a waste of talent. I guess the bad weather means there are lots of new routes and linkups to do there, and I suppose it is a choice with long daylight hours this time of year, but maybe there is something better to do instead.
If you want to know more about Colin, the folks at cascadeclimbers.com say his article "Going Square" in Alpinist 23 is quite good. You can also find lots of stuff on google, like:
http://www.greatoutdoors.com/published/big-year-for-climber-colin-haley
There's also a profile in Outside magazine:
http://outside.away.com/outside/culture/200901/colin-haley-mountaineer-1.html
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Offset
climber
seattle
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Jan 14, 2009 - 02:35pm PT
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bump!
(for bitchin TR! good read.)
"Although I have been to many places that are far more remote, I don't think I've ever felt more out on a limb than alone on the summit of Fitz Roy with bad weather, 2.5 hours of daylight left, and one rope."
yikes!
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NotIt
Trad climber
SF, CA
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Jan 14, 2009 - 02:59pm PT
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Makes me really question my decision to find myself in El Chalten, a few years ago now, with a needy girlfriend and no gear.
Ended up begging my way on to some sh!t two pitch aid climb.
(sound of me thumping my head against the door frame repeatedly)
Hats off to Colin and the rest of the dudes down there being tough.
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ryanb
climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 14, 2009 - 05:00pm PT
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Bump for a UW rock boulderer representing in the big mountains.
I guess the Supercanaleta is pretty impressive but it pales in comparison to the amount of dogged, good natured, determinate colin applied (over something like 8 years) to the 12 feet of polished stones and slightly overhanging concrete know only as "Edge Zeppelin."
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MisterE
Trad climber
Raising Arizona
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Jan 14, 2009 - 05:09pm PT
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Haha! good one Ryan! Don't forget the MF Overhang to the right of Edge Zeppelin.
That'll get ya in shape, too. LOL.
Colin Representing the PNW Alpinists! Yeehaw!!!
Erik Wolfe
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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Jan 14, 2009 - 10:10pm PT
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Nice!!
When Walt Shipley and I climbed the Supercanaleta in '87 we were fresh off a trip up the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre (with Scott Cole). We were way more psyched on Fitzroy though due to the almost complete lack of fixed gear. We soloed the lower couloir and then roped up at the block. There was a lot more ice on the waterfall pitch then in Colin's pictures - our conditions were a lot more solid if you were going to solo. All in all this is a great route and one of the funnest alpine routes that I've done.
We did epic a bit on the Argentine route descent, which we did in the dark in full Patagonia conditions. We missed the raps that take you down onto the east face and ended up rapping straight down the face- totally exposed to the full-force of the wind. With our limited rack this required us to hack pieces of fixed rope out of the ice to use for runners and rap anchors.
For someone as solid as Colin that must have been a great day on a fun route and to what is a very cool summit - great job!!
Paul
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RainedOutInSeattle
climber
Seattle
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Jan 15, 2009 - 12:42am PT
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I still can't do the 2nd to last move on Edge Zeppelin (the left foot stepthrough outside-edging layback). Must wait for perfect conditions.
Colin recommended I try it, flew up the thing without breaking a sweat. Very Impressive.
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MisterE
Trad climber
Raising Arizona
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Jan 15, 2009 - 12:46am PT
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I watched Satan/Nathan float that onsight.
Kid was wicked sick at the laybacks.
Did backwards/wrongway laybacks of all the hard lines.
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ryanb
climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 15, 2009 - 02:24pm PT
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Colin has told me, while eliciting my help to convince a number of beautiful, if disinterested, gym climbing girls to spend more time at the uw rock, that fall 2006 success on "Edge Zeppelin" was crucial preparation for success on his jan 2007 cerro torre link up.
The uw rock is, quite simply, the most brutal bouldering structure ever developed and colin, having benefited from its greasy smears, lye soaked shallow concrete cracks and impossible eliminates since an early age has a different definition of solid then other climbers.
Oh, I think he climbs snow or ice or something as well.
He wrote a good article on gear choices on cascade climbers a while back btw:
http://cascadeclimbers.com/alpine/colin-haley-alpinism
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dfinnecy
Social climber
san joser
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Jan 15, 2009 - 04:48pm PT
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Intrigued. What is this Edge Zeppelin? Anyone have pics?
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ryanb
climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 15, 2009 - 05:25pm PT
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From cascadeclimbers.com. "Edge Zepplin" climbs all of the rocks closest to the left. The similarity to 40+ hours of 210 meter simul pitches and tunneling through overhanging snow have never been obvious to me but what do I know.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Jan 15, 2009 - 07:58pm PT
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the years of patience developed from seasons in the cascades watching his partner's wool socks drip from the drying line in the tent-- and climbing greasy cobbles at the uw wall --obviously served him well.
bump for a really cool climb
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