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Messages 1 - 9 of total 9 in this topic |
k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 21, 2005 - 03:43am PT
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Anybody every been up there?
Advice?
:- k
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WBraun
climber
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May 21, 2005 - 12:02pm PT
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Where's that?
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Larry
Trad climber
Reno NV
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May 21, 2005 - 07:00pm PT
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Now that's obscure, if Werner needs a hint. (Werner, your route Local Motion is right next door.)
Window's Tears area. Chapman & Worral, 1975/6. Pages 314 & 315 of the '98 Falcon (Reid) guide.
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WBraun
climber
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May 21, 2005 - 09:11pm PT
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Oh that area, I never heard it being called "Tower of the Cosmic Winds".
But windfall is a super good route. Watch out for that little roof it's real tricky and spits a lota folks out.
Local motion has not a second that I know of. When I lead it I thought I was going to fall. The crux was very tricky strenuous off-width.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Topic Author's Reply - May 22, 2005 - 11:43pm PT
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Obscure, that means we might not have to wait in line for a fine one.
Local Motion, great name, but I don't have the rack of Elvis' to lead that one, thank God.
:- k
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Calif
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May 25, 2005 - 01:25am PT
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I did "Windfall" a couple of years ago and it was cool! I did the first three pitches in 1 190' pitch, combining the 10a (a fun flake taking 3/4" gear), to 5.10 liebacking w/ 1 1/2" to 2" cams to the .11a fingers at the roof, which widens to thin hands over the lip. I went up & left on face to the ramp out left which leads to belay #3 on the old topo. The second pitch had a chimney w/ a chockstone then the business begins. Hand & fist in a bronze/orange corner and steep like the "Enema". Oh yeah, by the way, there's a mean 1 1/8" section to get to the ledge.
We didn't get to do the last pitch, the .10c thin hands but it looked great. A nice series of straight in cracks & flakes!
The other two routes there looked dirty &/or licheny and seemed to receive less trafic than Windfall, which would be highly traveled if it were as easy to get to as the Cookie or Reeds cliffs are.
It's about a 50 minute hike. I can't tell you more about the approach other than it was up a series of talus gullies but most of the time the tall trees obscured any views of the cliffs. Scope from the road carefully & go for it.
Levy
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Topic Author's Reply - May 25, 2005 - 05:18pm PT
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Levy, that's what I was lookin' for (some approach info and a bit-o-beta). Many thanks.
:- k
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weekender
climber
Oaklanc CA
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May 27, 2005 - 12:11pm PT
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For extra adventure on Windfall, you can continue to the rim on Windchill.
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Fingerlocks
Trad climber
where the climbing's good
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May 27, 2005 - 07:20pm PT
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I've been thinking for several seasons to get up there and do Windfall, but haven't made the trudge yet. Plan on it this year.
Taking Windchill on up to the rim sounds appealing. How are those upper pitches? reasonably clean? the 1 1/4" on the 5th pitch sounds worthy, how about the rest?
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